Skookum bush tool for V Notching

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Dec 9, 2009
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17
I obtained a Skookum Bush tool and have been using it and a BRKT convex I have used previously.

The Skookum is great and feels really good and excels at the carving of spindles etc etc. I noticed that the Skookum is much more difficult to use when V notching a fire board than the convex.

My Mora's are better at notching than the Skookum due to the much thinner blade although the Skookum blade really isn't that thick.

Is it just me or is the thicker blade in the Skookum generally more difficult to notch with. It seems more difficult than it should be as the blade is not really that thick.

Yes, I do the edges/corners first etc.

Accounts of personal experience are much appreciated.

Regards !!!!!!
 
The Skookum does work but a thin blade obviously works better. Of course a thin blade won't be as tough for rougher use.

I don't know about the BRKY but I generally prefer scandi for woodcrafting. Seem to allow more precise work to me, although convex does work.
 
I have more control of fine wood carving with a scandi, but for some reason I find the convex of my F1 better for making the notch too. How odd!
 
It is always a trade off. Thicker blade means tougher to notch with (and slice) but it means you can baton with more comfort and it will be much more durable.

TF
 
It is always a trade off. Thicker blade means tougher to notch with (and slice) but it means you can baton with more comfort and it will be much more durable.

TF

Feel free to do a comparison with 1 of your convex blades and my Skookum you are holding hostage.
 
My terrasaur (which from what I gather is quite similar to Rods Skookum) is 5/32, and it does a nice job of notching. Now, my Falkniven WM1 notches a bit better, but so does my Swisstool Spirits saw. However, I can accomplish the task quite well with the Terrasaur, and havent needed to switch to one of the others, because they "work" easier.

I cant wait to get my skookum.

It is an issue of thickness and grind profile Id say. 5/32 isnt...*thick* really....But it is bigger then 1/8, or even those 3/32 and 1/16 pieces. So, thinner ones, especially a thin convex grind(think axe).. will be able to push through the easier. Just physics.

Which REALLY makes me want to pull the trigger on Koyotes Scandi convex blades. :thumbup:

All that said, I think its just tech. Take it from a former anti scandi blade guy, that I really believe the Scandi is a better woodcarver. Im sure you know, but for example it takes a differant tech when making feather sticks with each grind, but after you get the hang of it, you can get it to do about anything you want.

Happy carving!
 
Interesting in the time I have been collecting knives and such that the more people actually use the knives it seems like the knives in fashion keep morphing to shorter blades, fatter handles, smaller ricassos and thinner blades.:thumbup:

Oh and finer edges. I think one of the reasons for the huge popularity of Bark River over everything else initially was that they were one of the first and still one of the few that produced a blade that was able to cut deep and be easy to sharpen by getting away from the V grind edge.
 
Interesting in the time I have been collecting...

Good post HD. I agree with all points. My only problem with Bark River knives is, the two I started with are rather thick. Now I have to find another one with a thinner blade. :p Darn the luck.
 
Good post HD. I agree with all points. My only problem with Bark River knives is, the two I started with are rather thick. Now I have to find another one with a thinner blade. :p Darn the luck.

I agree. Great cutters but they aren't as good slicers.
 
I find my Skookum one of the best thinner scandis for notching. Not as good as a Mora, but then - a Mora pales in cutting ability to my custom Joonas Kallioniemmi puukko:

DSC_3260.JPG


Off course, the puukko has the thinnest edge and is the smallest and lightest knife.. Nevertheless, strong enough for 99.9% of the tasks. The other 0.1% is better left to an axe :)

-Emile
 
I find my Skookum one of the best thinner scandis for notching. Not as good as a Mora, but then - a Mora pales in cutting ability to my custom Joonas Kallioniemmi puukko:

DSC_3260.JPG


Off course, the puukko has the thinnest edge and is the smallest and lightest knife.. Nevertheless, strong enough for 99.9% of the tasks. The other 0.1% is better left to an axe :)

-Emile

Emile,

Love everything about that one. The grind, the thicker bolster the grain on the wood is outstanding:thumbup:
 
Cheers fellas. A small knife like this is a joy to use - and a great companion to boot.

-Emile
 
Beautiful knife, Emile.
That's a pretty actute angle, did you put a micro bevel on the puukko?
 
Beautiful knife, Emile.
That's a pretty actute angle, did you put a micro bevel on the puukko?

No, no need so far. I mainly use a leather stropping belt with honing compound to keep it sharp. This will convex it slightly over time and add to the strength. But I must say that I am very impressed with the edge holding so far. This one is in Silversteel aka Böhler 510 btw. He does a great HT on it.

-Emile
 
I find my Skookum one of the best thinner scandis for notching. Not as good as a Mora, but then - a Mora pales in cutting ability to my custom Joonas Kallioniemmi puukko:

DSC_3260.JPG


Off course, the puukko has the thinnest edge and is the smallest and lightest knife.. Nevertheless, strong enough for 99.9% of the tasks. The other 0.1% is better left to an axe :)

-Emile

Nice blades! Where did you find that crooked knife?:thumbup:
 
No, no need so far. I mainly use a leather stropping belt with honing compound to keep it sharp. This will convex it slightly over time and add to the strength. But I must say that I am very impressed with the edge holding so far. This one is in Silversteel aka Böhler 510 btw. He does a great HT on it.

-Emile

Gorgeous! Where does one get a beauty like it?
 
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