Sledge Hammers!

I've posted this hammer before, but I've been using it since Friday reshingling the roof and it's really been an absolute joy.
The octagon I put on the handle really is great, constantly setting it down and picking it back up the flats indexed it in my hand.
This 50 year old Vaughan steel is definitely better than what you can buy today for the $7.50 I had in this 5 years ago.
 
Square_peg said:
That size is great for starting or driving wedges when splitting wood. Easier to start with a single jack.
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I agree and will not be passing up any more 4pounders that fall my way. Just a great balance and great weight. I have some large rounds I grabbed recently that will be a great test for driving wedges.

Thanks square_peg
 
Hickory n steel said:
I've posted this hammer before, but I've been using it since Friday reshingling the roof and it's really been an absolute joy.
The octagon I put on the handle really is great, constantly setting it down and picking it back up the flats indexed it in my hand.
This 50 year old Vaughan steel is definitely better than what you can buy today for the $7.50 I had in this 5 years ago.
Click to expand...
Round to octagon, that's pretty sweet.:cool:
 
jblyttle said:
This flatter has a 2.5" square face and the handle is 15.5". Would you believe this head was on the ground at the scrapyard? :D

IMG_20180424_080538 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080447 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080503 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080457 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080444 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080518 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20180424_080531 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
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That's a great way to score sir!! Beautiful hammer and a great hang!
 
droppoint1 said:
I have a question about re handling hammer heads.

Does the larger opening of the eye go toward the top or bottom?

I have some hammers that look like they could be mounted either way. It seems that with the larger opening toward the top they would wedge on better and prevent the head from coming off as easily. But most of the hammers I see have the larger opening at the bottom.
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Depends if the eye is a plain taper. If so, large end is wedged.
If the eye is a slight hourglass profile but one opening is larger than the other, then its small end is wedged. This makes for stronger joint at wood to steel transition.
 
JB - I was curious if you would be willing to share how you clean/patina your hammer heads. If you do not want to share any proprietary information, that's OK. The hammers you have been showing really have a nice finish - I didn't know if it was anything other than wire brushing with an oil finish or something a bit more esoteric. They look great.
 
stevewest said:
JB - I was curious if you would be willing to share how you clean/patina your hammer heads. If you do not want to share any proprietary information, that's OK. The hammers you have been showing really have a nice finish - I didn't know if it was anything other than wire brushing with an oil finish or something a bit more esoteric. They look great.
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Pretty sure he just uses a wire wheel and some wd40.

A wire wheel is the number one way to remove rust, use some care and it preserves the patina and the tool doesn't look all cleaned up don't bare down on it extremely hard.
 
^^^ What Hickory said.

Plus a brass wire wheel (or cup brush) will leave a bit more patina than a knotted steel cup brush. I choose based on how bad the rust is encrusted onto the axe. Nicer axes get brass. I never use a crimped steel brush because they are notorious for throwing wires. Any time you're cleaning an axe or hammer with a wheel/brush you should be wearing eye, ear and respiratory protection. And never bear down hard on a wheel or brush. That just makes them throw wires. Take your time and let the tool do its job.
 
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