Slipjoint #3 Complete....Critique

I'd carry that, and would not be ashamed if my logo were stamped on the tang:thumbup:

Darcy:)
 
Tim, the step up from your second is massive, that's a beautiful knife and finished very well indeed.
Having poured over your pictures the only thing that doesn't agree with my eyes is that the pin in the covers closest to the bolster appears smaller than the other two, but I don't make slipjoints so if it's a necessity, please ignore me.

I think its stunning though. A tip of the hat to you sir!

Paul
 
Darcy, Josha840, Auslox and pemew appreciate your comments and feed back. Thanks for looking.


"I'll take it!" Looks great! Lanny's clip next??

Would LOVE to do a Lanny's clip. Definitely on the list. I'm still getting used to grinding these small blades. I think it will be a challenge for me to bring that grind nice and even under that long pull. But I'm going to give it a try here soon.

Tim, the step up from your second is massive, that's a beautiful knife and finished very well indeed.
Having poured over your pictures the only thing that doesn't agree with my eyes is that the pin in the covers closest to the bolster appears smaller than the other two, but I don't make slipjoints so if it's a necessity, please ignore me.

I think its stunning though. A tip of the hat to you sir!

Paul

Thanks Paul for the comments and that is a keen eye. You are right. My two spring pins are 3/32" and my scale pin is 1/16". I don't think its a necessity to have one smaller than the other but on many of the knives I've seen and studied this has been the case. Not to say that its always that way, some makers use the same size pins all the way around. I chose to use a smaller pin here for now real reason...just seemed to "fit" when I was picturing things in my mind.
 
The small pin at the bolster end looks good, and goes well. Most bolster end and "top side" pins, if any, would traditionally be smaller anyway.

I don't really see much of anything to critique, everything fits tight and looks clean.

I really enjoyed looking at this one, nice job!
 
That is beautiful! I really like the design and material selection. Workmanship looks great as well.
I agree with some others that adding just a little length would be great. That would make it one I could see in my pocket for years.
I like your maker's mark also, but it looks wrong to me not being square with the blade...but that is very minor and has nothing to do with the quality knife you have produced!
 
Very nice, well done!! Nice flow and very well finished both blade and handle...pivot totally disappeared!!! :thumbup:

As for the blade/handle ratio. Also i find it difficult to optimize it. Try not to be tricked by the spring, you know it will "lift the butt" for the preload allowing more space for blade lenght.
But hence you may start your pattern like the blade tip would bump on the spring end in all of the initial mock up steps when you don't have tension...if you know what i mean.
 
I know from nothing about making knives, but I can appreciate that something like this takes lots of time and skill to accomplish. It's really beautiful! I'd be proud to carry it or one like it. The ironwood is great; it's a wood I'd like to add to my collection someday. If only I had the tools and skills to do something like this... but alas, I have neither.

The one extremely minor nitpick from me: I'd like to see the ends of the long pull squared off vs. coming to points.
 
I think this is a beautiful looking knife. I'm not even that big of a fan of spearpoints, but I'd have no qualms about carrying this baby. For knives of this size, I don't think the blade needs to be longer. I think you did a fine job with the swedge and the finish. I really love how clean and refined it is - very elegant.

Only negative I have is maybe tighten up the plunge grind and get that sharpening notch dialed in - because I'm an avid sharpener of my knives. I accept nothing less than push cutting from my blades, so I sharpen diligently, and that much sharpening notch flair usually causes me grievance.
 
Tim, that's an ugly knife. Just horrible. In fact, you should not show it off as proof of your work. So, in order to help you out, just send me the knife and I will hide it for you. In my pocket. Lol.
 
The small pin at the bolster end looks good, and goes well. Most bolster end and "top side" pins, if any, would traditionally be smaller anyway.

I don't really see much of anything to critique, everything fits tight and looks clean.

I really enjoyed looking at this one, nice job!

thanks you Sir, and glad you liked it.

That is beautiful! I really like the design and material selection. Workmanship looks great as well.
I agree with some others that adding just a little length would be great. That would make it one I could see in my pocket for years.
I like your maker's mark also, but it looks wrong to me not being square with the blade...but that is very minor and has nothing to do with the quality knife you have produced!

Thanks for the reply. As for the mark, I didn't even notice that!! now I can't not see it!! HAHA. I need to re-think when I place that on the blade. That was the first thing I was doing after profiling but, as I now see the spine angle of the blade may change slightly before its all said and done...leaving my mark catawampus. Thanks for pointing that out.

Very nice, well done!! Nice flow and very well finished both blade and handle...pivot totally disappeared!!! :thumbup:

As for the blade/handle ratio. Also i find it difficult to optimize it. Try not to be tricked by the spring, you know it will "lift the butt" for the preload allowing more space for blade lenght.
But hence you may start your pattern like the blade tip would bump on the spring end in all of the initial mock up steps when you don't have tension...if you know what i mean.

Thank you Stezann...yes I do know what you mean. On knife #2 I got the blade to short thinking I was bumping the spring but then, when under pressure I had a LOT more room for the blade. I did take that into account on this one but still have room to go. It's all a learning process for me right now and hopefully Im getting a foundation and can start dialing things in. You would not believe how much steel and nickel silver is into making this little thing haha. I took a pic of the spring, blade, liners with soldered bolsters and ironwood all cut out and sent it to a buddy. I told him I was starting #3...well the only thing left on the knife from that original picture are the iron wood scales!

I can't thank you enough for the soldering tips. This solder job came out much much better. I still have a small spot at the corner of one bolster that you can just barely see the line between the two but nothing like the prior. Not sure what happened, it wasn't there and then as I polished with 600 grit it decided to show up. Oh well on to the next. Thanks again for looking and your tips.

I know from nothing about making knives, but I can appreciate that something like this takes lots of time and skill to accomplish. It's really beautiful! I'd be proud to carry it or one like it. The ironwood is great; it's a wood I'd like to add to my collection someday. If only I had the tools and skills to do something like this... but alas, I have neither.

The one extremely minor nitpick from me: I'd like to see the ends of the long pull squared off vs. coming to points.

Thanks for your comments. I used a different method for cutting the long pull on #2 than this one. In #2 it was more square but to big for my taste. I need to figure a way to get that exactly right. Maybe a nail nick on the next one. Haven't tried that one yet.

As for making them...don't sell yourself short. The major tools I have are a craftsman 2x42 grinder, a craftsman drill press, assorted files and file guide (used a lot) and a rise fall indicator. I did get a bandsaw and swag table recently that helped a ton but before that I just used the drill holes and cut with dremel method. As for skill...well that is learned by most of us...few are born with it....right now I feel that I have "lessons learned" more than skill. So give it a shot, all that you can loose is some steel and time. (oh and if your like me you'll have all kinds of cuts and nicks...so maybe a little blood too).

I think this is a beautiful looking knife. I'm not even that big of a fan of spearpoints, but I'd have no qualms about carrying this baby. For knives of this size, I don't think the blade needs to be longer. I think you did a fine job with the swedge and the finish. I really love how clean and refined it is - very elegant.

Only negative I have is maybe tighten up the plunge grind and get that sharpening notch dialed in - because I'm an avid sharpener of my knives. I accept nothing less than push cutting from my blades, so I sharpen diligently, and that much sharpening notch flair usually causes me grievance.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Not sure what you mean by the sharpening notch flair. Can you post a pic or tell me a brand/maker that does the sharpening notch the way you prefer? I really never put a whole lot of thought into it before but now I find this interesting. Thanks again.

Tim, that's an ugly knife. Just horrible. In fact, you should not show it off as proof of your work. So, in order to help you out, just send me the knife and I will hide it for you. In my pocket. Lol.

Sorry man....I can not place such a burden on a man but I appreciate your offer :) Thanks for looking and glad you liked it.
 
I would like to see more "makers angle" shots. ie. One into the well and another of the spine. I agree with Tim that ascetically the tang is a bit long for my eye. I would like to see the swedge closer to the end of the long pull so as not to break up the flow as much...just a tad. The plunge line would look more pleasing to the eye if it was a few degrees more angular from spine to edge. I think the makers mark would look better if it were smaller.

Keep in mind these points are all opinions from the peanut gallery! I only wish I could make a knife as beautiful as yours!! I admire your skill and would proudly carry that knife. Thanks for making me open my eyes:D It is a real treat to see your work and look forward to more!!!
 
I would like to see more "makers angle" shots. ie. One into the well and another of the spine. I agree with Tim that ascetically the tang is a bit long for my eye. I would like to see the swedge closer to the end of the long pull so as not to break up the flow as much...just a tad. The plunge line would look more pleasing to the eye if it was a few degrees more angular from spine to edge. I think the makers mark would look better if it were smaller.

Keep in mind these points are all opinions from the peanut gallery! I only wish I could make a knife as beautiful as yours!! I admire your skill and would proudly carry that knife. Thanks for making me open my eyes:D It is a real treat to see your work and look forward to more!!!

Thank you for your comments. I enjoy hearing all the different comments, each time it makes me look at the knife differently and I can see new areas to improve.

I took a few shots with my phone. Hope you can get a feel for what you wanted to see. The "well" shot is difficult. My wife took the "purdy pics" might have to get her to do a few more angles next time. Thanks again.



 
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Wow that is gorgeous! I like how you left off the shield, it shows more of that stunning grain:) I don't have any critiques, it looks awesome
 
Wow that is gorgeous! I like how you left off the shield, it shows more of that stunning grain:) I don't have any critiques, it looks awesome

Thanks Ernie. I do like it a lot without a shield...but I haven't explored adding the shield yet. Hopefully soon. Thanks again.
 
Tim, that knife looks fantastic, more so since it's only your third one! There are folks who work for years at knifemaking and don't achieve results like that. Each knife you make from now on will be fine tuning your skills, and they'll only get better.

I think what Traumkommode is referring to is the grind above the shoulder. It's got a pretty good radius to it as it rises through the choil. This makes it more difficult to sharpen up to the shoulder since the blade thickens as it reaches that point. That is something that requires practice and a feel for your equipment, not something you'll have perfected right away. It helps to have a new belt and don't let the belt hang over your wheel or platen at all. Bring it right up to the edge but no farther. You won't completely eliminate the radius unless you grind with a stone, or to a bit lesser extent go with a higher end more powerful grinder, but you'll get it tightened up over time. Good luck!!

Eric
 
Thanks Eric. That makes perfect sense. I'm learning new things all the time from you all and I appreciate everyone's input and pointing me in the right direction. Great forum and a great bunch of people. Thanks again .
 
Sorry man....I can not place such a burden on a man but I appreciate your offer :) Thanks for looking and glad you liked it.

Yeah, that's a sweet knife right there. If I HAD to critique it, and I'd really have to reach here, I'd make the last name darker. The K is nice and visible, but the rest looks like it simply faded. But again, this is me trying to find something to nitpick at. Otherwise, well done my friend.
 
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