Slipjoint pivot question

[Hengelo_77]

This is slipjoint #11 for me.
As you can see the pivot did not disappear well in to the disk around it. Both are stainless (annealed). The pivot is 3mm
I think it is because I chamfered the hole to much, having to move to much steel to close it.
Am I right?
Or is it something else?

Also I hand sanded the scales afterwards, including the disk. I don't like it that shiny. Is there a way to dull it / sand it back without dulling the scales?

 

[ashwinearl]

What are you using to do the chamfer? I am using a bit on the advice of AVigil : carbide 20 degree 0.1mm CNC triangular pyramid engraving bit.

I was only able to find it on ebay from china.

 

[Hengelo_77]

This is what I use

 

[bjansen]

I think that is the issue as it is way too steep. I suggest using a 4/0 tapered reamer for 3/32 pivot stock. Ream it by hand and just barely. You do not need to remove much at all….you could probably get by not reaming at all.

To set the pivot, Pinch the pivot pin together inside the flat jaws of a mill vise while keeping an eye on the blade ensuring it is centered then after it is mushroomed peen the rest by hand with a 4oz hammer on your stiddy.

I will then take a file and file down the excess just scratching the surface of the shadow bushing and then go to sandpaper with a hard backer (ie. A piece of steel)

 

[Sean Yaw]

I think that is the issue as it is way too steep. I suggest using a 4/0 tapered reamer for 3/32 pivot stock. Ream it by hand and just barely. You do not need to remove much at all….you could probably get by not reaming at all.

To set the pivot, Pinch the pivot pin together inside the flat jaws of a mill vise while keeping an eye on the blade ensuring it is centered then after it is mushroomed peen the rest by hand with a 4oz hammer on your stiddy.

I will then take a file and file down the excess just scratching the surface of the shadow bushing and then go to sandpaper with a hard backer (ie. A piece of steel)

I have not heard that technique for peening the pivot. Do you do it with the blade closed to see if the blade is centered? What do you do if the blade becomes uncentered during that process? Do you use a shim when peening, or are you using bushings?

 

[bjansen]

Sean. I do it with the blade closed. It is the single best trick I have learned in Slipjoint making. I learned it from a Craig Brewer video. No shims. The vise will mushroom the heads without swelling the inside of the pivot pin (not sure how exactly…I guess because there is no shock from the hammer).

Try it sometime with a scrap. You will get a feel for how it works and what happens to the centering if you move it around when you squeeze

 

[Sean Yaw]

Sean. I do it with the blade closed. It is the single best trick I have learned in Slipjoint making. I learned it from a Craig Brewer video. No shims. The vise will mushroom the heads without swelling the inside of the pivot pin (not sure how exactly…I guess because there is no shock from the hammer).

Try it sometime with a scrap. You will get a feel for how it works abs what happens to the centering of you move it around as you squeeze

Do you do the pivot before the other pins?

 

[bjansen]

Yes. I do the pivot first, then the tail then the middle. I am not sure that it makes a difference, but that is the process I consistently follow.

 

[Sean Yaw]

Yes. I do the pivot first, then the tail then the middle. I am not sure that it makes a difference, but that is the process I consistently follow.

Do you do the vise trick with the middle and tail pins too?

 

[Hengelo_77]

Do you do the vise trick with the middle and tail pins too?

In post #4 bjansen sayd:
"peen the rest by hand with a 4oz hammer on your stiddy."

I'm thinking of taking an older slipjoint apart and re-do the handle this way to try it.
I've got a new reamer 1:50 on order as well. See if I can do it as well

 

[Signalprick]

A few guys have told me over the years about doing the pivot in a vise. Brad was one of them. Ploppert told me a few months back he does his this way too. I finally tried it and I'll never go back. I would advise to also clamp the butt before you squeeze. No pun intended. Lol

 

[Sean Yaw]

A few guys have told me over the years about doing the pivot in a vise. Brad was one of them. Ploppert told me a few months back he does his this way too. I finally tried it and I'll never go back. I would advise to also clamp the butt before you squeeze. No pun intended. Lol

Do you leave the same amount sticking out as when peening?

 

[Signalprick]

Yes

 

[bjansen]

Yes, and then after you squeeze it use a 4oz hammer to finish the pivot to your liking. I often have spring clamps on the knife to keep it tight when squeezing/peening and I only squeeze the pivot, the rest of the non-pivot pins I do the old school peening way with a 4oz hammer and a stiddy or peening anvil

 

[Natlek]

This is slipjoint #11 for me.
As you can see the pivot did not disappear well in to the disk around it. Both are stainless (annealed). The pivot is 3mm
I think it is because I chamfered the hole to much, having to move to much steel to close it.
Am I right?
Or is it something else?

Also I hand sanded the scales afterwards, including the disk. I don't like it that shiny. Is there a way to dull it / sand it back without dulling the scales?

On this one probably you chamfered the hole to much .This should be easy task ..... I have some question about process .Did you tapered little ends of pivot ? Did you use shim under pivot on other side when you start peening one side ? If you hit too hard and move the material quickly, it is not good ,the pin will expand to fast and that part will remain at the surface , inside it will not expand to fill the taper . Light shots, many of them are better when you peening pins .

 

[Hengelo_77]

Thnx, I probably removed to much steel around the hole. I used a carbide cutter in a drill press.
I have a hand reamer on order for the next one. First I'll re-handle an older slipjoint to try it out and see how it goes