slipjoint pivot screw?

[clockworkfish]

Hey is it ok to use screws for a slipjoint? From my googling i've noticed just about nobody is doing that and i'm wondering why, anyone have ideas?

 

[catcalls]

I'm no slipjoint builder, or even a qualified fixed blade maker, but most screw have multiple problems/ reasons of why not to use them in knife handles;
•low carbon non stainless, will rust.
•mostlikely unprecise diameter, unless machined
•would need to be machined to get threads off.

I am wondering if people use brass round stock for pivots?

 

[Mitchell Knives]

I have seen a few slipjoints that used a regular folder pivot and screw construction; looked great.

I'm guessing that you don't see this method as often because most makers are going for a more "traditional look".

 

[Don Hanson III]

 

[Mitchell Knives]

Wow, amazing work!

 

[Don Hanson III]

Wow, amazing work!

Thanks Johnathan!

I make em with pins too, but have made more with screws than pins.

 

[Clem Kadiddlehopper]

Thanks Johnathan!

I make em with pins too, but have made more with screws than pins.

And the dude has got skills - He makes his own screws also.:thumbup:

Don't ever stop what you're doing Don - keep them coming.

 

[clockworkfish]

Well dang don! maybe you could answer another burning slipjoint question of mine, how do you heat treat the spring? Any preferred steels for the lock?

 

[Don Hanson III]

Well dang don! maybe you could answer another burning slipjoint question of mine, how do you heat treat the spring? Any preferred steels for the lock?

I use damascus for springs on folders like shown above, usually same steel as the blade. On more traditional slipjoints I use W2 for blades and W1, or 1084 for the springs. Heat treat like the blade, but use a higher temp when tempering springs, for a Rc hardness of around 50.

 

[clockworkfish]

so heat the entire spring the same amount? (not just torching the bar?) and being slightly more off topic is this the same for linerlocks, assuming you use 410, or 416 or even 440c, heat the entire liner and then temper to about 50rc? Last last thing bend before heat treat or after?

 

[Don Hanson III]

so heat the entire spring the same amount? (not just torching the bar?) and being slightly more off topic is this the same for linerlocks, assuming you use 410, or 416 or even 440c, heat the entire liner and then temper to about 50rc? Last last thing bend before heat treat or after?

I heat the entire spring and quench in oil. Then temper with blade for an hour twice. Then I clamp the tip (end towards blade) of the spring in a vise grip to keep just the end from getting as hot. Then with a torch, I heat the spring to an even blue color. Leaving the very tip harder keeps the end of the spring from mushrooming as the blade is constantly slamming into it. Been doing it this way since 1993 or so and only had one spring break.

I use titanium for liner locks, so no need to heat treat the spring.. If using stainless, bend before heat treat.

 

[Don Hanson III]

Hey is it ok to use screws for a slipjoint? From my googling i've noticed just about nobody is doing that and i'm wondering why, anyone have ideas?

Most of the guys buying traditional slip joints want the knife pinned together and really turn their nose up at screws. I like screws and use them on all my damascus slip joints. But when I do traditional with no damascus, I pin everything together. Two different styles of the same type knife. Works for me...

 

[clockworkfish]

Thanks so much for your help Don! i love your work and cant wait to try out some slipjoints!

 

[Chuck Gedraitis Knives]

I temper my springs the same way Don does but I do it 3 times and have never had a spring break.

 

[Frank Niro]

Don, do you spin your pin heads? Thanks Frank.

 

[Don Hanson III]

Don, do you spin your pin heads? Thanks Frank.

Yes Frank, I just recently started spinning the pin heads.

 

[Frank Niro]

I forgot to say "Don you make terrific knives !!! " Frank

 

[Don Hanson III]

Thank you, Frank!