Slipjoint pull adjustment

peter r

peter r

Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
1,690
Can lightening the pull of a slipjoint be done if i ship the knife back to the maker?
 
Lightening the pull is a bit easier than increasing it. Either steel is removed from the corners of the tang or the spring can be tempered back a bit more. I would choose the former as it is easier to control. Depending on the knife, the spring pivot can be moved back as well.

Conversely, they do break in and loosen up after a bit of working the pivot.


-Xander
 
What is the break in period for a pivot?

I dont mind Really, its just that its kind of dangerous. It requires a lotbof strength then snaps the rest of the way. Ive almost sliced myself a few times.
 
It takes a while, longer for higher quality knives. If they broke in after just a week, think about what they would feel like in a year!

Another option I just though of, depending on the blade shape and its relationship to the handle when closed, another or longer pull/nick could be added for better leverage when opening.

Personally I like the opening/closing stage to be about a 4 or 5 (scale of 1-10) and the locking to be a solid 7 or 8. Half stops are nice for knives with a heavy pull, but I don't like them.

On mine I'm making, I made the beginning stage lighter and the locking stage heavier with what I call a half pause, not a full stop and lock into place. I did a gentle arc on the back of the tang to remove much of the "clunk, clunk" of closing a knife with half stops.

So there are a few options, and if the knife is a custom I think the maker should be able to help in one form or another.


-Xander
 
The usual way of lightening the pull would be to grind an arc on the inside of the spring behind the kick.The knife would have to be taken apart to do this.Best to get with the maker and get his thoughts on it.Grinding on the tang will not lighten it just make it lazy.
Stan
 
Ahh good point Stan. I went through a bunch or the geometry related to this, but never had to modify the pull of one yet, I was trying to think it through in my head. And my notebook is at home, with all my notes. I am assuming the arc ground into the spring is based off the pivot? This is for my reference.

PeterR, take Stans advice, he does this much more than me!


- xander
 
My slip-joints are screw together so I can easily take the knife apart and lighten the spring.

A pinned knife will be a PITA to take apart, lighten the spring and then re finish the bolsters ect.
 
You can always (gently) grind the backspring down from the outside.
 
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