slipjoint pull too heavy

HSC ///

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Joined
Nov 7, 2012
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4,710
I made this slipjoint a few months ago and the spring is too stiff...it's probably a 7 out of 10
I set it aside but would like to work on it now, the pins are already peened.

any hope or suggestions for relieving or relaxing the spring tension? or do I need to drill out the peened pins, take it apart and go from there....
as you can see, the backspring is also Damasteel.


thanks

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On production knives (GEC's mainly), I've used a small brass rod to wedge between the spine/pivot area and spring, using the leverage of the blade to gently over-bend the backspring.

While it's worked for me on several occasions, I feel like it's extremely risky and would be very easy to permanently damage or break the backspring.

Hopefully others will chime in with a proper fix!!
 
I normally just use a small wheel to grind a small amount of material from the spring between the middle pin and where the top of the kick touches in the closed position, if that makes sense. Obviously you have to disassemble the knife to do this.
 
I see no pins-only screws.
You can grind the spine of the knife to thin the backspring-but you will need to re-etch the steel.
 
Use a small dremel attachment to remove material from the backspring while the knife is open. Just dont slip. Also be sure to remove material far enough back so it doesnt affect the closed position.
 
I see no pins-only screws.
You can grind the spine of the knife to thin the backspring-but you will need to re-etch the steel.

the backspring pins are underneath the wood scales...the two screws hold the scales to the liner/frame,
 
Use a small dremel attachment to remove material from the backspring while the knife is open. Just dont slip. Also be sure to remove material far enough back so it doesnt affect the closed position.
thanks, I guess that destroys the etching on the inside of the blade

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Since you do not have peened pivot, I say take it apart.

Grind the back spring and re assemble.
 
What Adam said ^^^^^ this way you can remove material from the underside of the spring polish and Re-Etch.
 
Thanks for the replies
I Certainly understand what the right thing to do and what I need to do .... but I was hoping if there were some other tricks or other option but thank you all
 
Thanks for the replies I Certainly understand what the right thing to do and what I need to do .... but I was hoping if there were some other tricks or other option but thank you all
Harbeer, that is one good looking slipjoint. How did you make the pivot? Is it a barrel with the visible screws on each end? Any bearings on the pivot?

Both the backspring pins are peened below the scales?

Thanks for sharing any info.
Ken H>
 
Harbeer, that is one good looking slipjoint. How did you make the pivot? Is it a barrel with the visible screws on each end? Any bearings on the pivot?

Both the backspring pins are peened below the scales?

Thanks for sharing any info.
Ken H>
thanks
it's just a purchased pivot barrel,no bearings, just bronze washers.

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If it is a piece for sale, I would simply market it as a strong spring. Be up front about it, and some one who likes strong springs will grab it!!

I like stiff springs enough, when I had a custom made, I specified strong, bear trap springs.....
 
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If it is a piece for sale, I would simply market it as a string spring. Be up front about it, and some one who likes strong springs will grab it!!

I like stiff springs enough, when I had a custom made, I specified strong, bear trap springs.....
hmm, I hadn't considered that...
 
Harbeer - thanks for the info. I think that my next slip joint will be made like that.
 
Harbeer - thanks for the info. I think that my next slip joint will be made like that.

The construction interests me as well because i am thinking of using O1 for bolsters so they patina like the blade, and i have been debating what pin material to use and how to make it all look right at the pivot. I have been using nickel silver for bolsters and pivot pins. I think the screws on the pivot barrel are convenient in this regard but also utilitarian.
 
H HSC ///
Where do you source 2-56 barrel nuts? I tried several hardware sites online and smallest i found uses a 8-32 screw. Texas knifemaker has 2-56 barrel nuts but they are expensive and i would like more options on length. I may have to resort to cutting/grinding barrel nuts to length. And is countersinking a big pain?
 
H HSC ///
Where do you source 2-56 barrel nuts? I tried several hardware sites online and smallest i found uses a 8-32 screw. Texas knifemaker has 2-56 barrel nuts but they are expensive and i would like more options on length. I may have to resort to cutting/grinding barrel nuts to length. And is countersinking a big pain?
I don't use 2-56 barrels....the pivot barrels are 6-64 as I recall.
I use 2-56 screws to hold the scales to the liner frame.

fancy hardware I get form Steve Kelly at Ticonnector
most other screws etc like 2-56 screws I get from RB Johnson 320-558-6128

most screws and barrels have to be ground down to size/length...
I don't do countersinks, I counterbore for the screw head to sit lower or flush.

Is it a big pain? every operation on a slipjoint is a chance to screw it up :D every operation has to be thought out, planned and setup properly or it doesn't go well.

these are examples of the pivots I get from Ticonnector

HAYFJPc.jpg
 
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I don't use 2-56 barrels....the pivot barrels are 6-64 as I recall.
I use 2-56 screws to hold the scales to the liner frame.

fancy hardware I get form Steve Kelly at Ticonnector
most other screws etc like 2-56 screws I get from RB Johnson 320-558-6128

most screws and barrels have to be ground down to size/length...
I don't do countersinks, I counterbore for the screw head to sit lower or flush.

Is it a big pain? every operation on a slipjoint is a chance to screw it up :D every operation has to be thought out, planned and setup properly or it doesn't go well.

these are examples of the pivots I get from Ticonnector

HAYFJPc.jpg
Nice Work....Love the Dellana Dots:cool::thumbsup:
 
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