slipjoint workhorse

Y'all didn't say what the blade steel is on that cannitler. I believe I've seen Canal Street offer both 420HC and D2 in that design.

If you have the D2 and it still wasn't robust enough, your only option would be to go to a razor knife or one of the modern folders in a PM uber alloy. Howsoever, if you have the 420HC, try the D2.

I often carry both a traditional and a one-hander for pretty much that reason. I do 95% of my cutting with my traditional. The one-hander is only for those rare jobs that require a bit more oomph.
 
I'm in with the case crowd.

Lemme tell you a bit about why a knife made by case is my hardest use folder. First off, my case knife (a jigged bone SS copperlock) fits nicely in my pocket and thus gets the most pocket time. Secondly, any damage to the edge or play developed is easily solved within the span of literally 2 minutes; a good whack with a hammer while folded up in an old magazine fixes play while Case SS is super easy to get shaving sharp. All i do to get an edge I can shave with is 3 steps:

1. Develop a burr on both sides with a coarse diamond stone. takes about a min.
2. Light stropping for about 3-5 passes a side at a slightly raised angle with 1500 grit sand paper.
3. 5 passes over Mother's Billet on a strop.

That's it. My old soddie used to get from butter knife dull hair-whittling from a single Natural Japanese stone, Case steel be it SS or CV is just that quick to sharpen. Finally, the last reason I use my case the hardest is that its only like 5$ to get the blade replaced :D

I say get this slimline trapper in cv:
80031-1.JPG


Go ahead, use, abuse and do everything but lose it. Case, as I bet many would testify to, feel makes real working knives under all that great f&f :thumbup:
 
I would suggest the Queen Cattle King in D2 or the Large Case Stockman in SS or CV
Both are 4 1/4", so they are solid in the hand for heavy work
I have the Queen

The both have a larger sheepsfoot blade that is ideal for cutting cardboard
The Queen in D2 holds an edge very well
 
the canittler is D2, didnt' loose much of the shyny edge:thumbup: still cuts like 70%-80% a bit of stropping and it came back new, was pretty much more cardboard than I'm used to, hence my question/problem about a "pry like" movement while cutting horizontally that creates a slight wobble

Javelin, you got my problem, the moving bolster, I may use something like you suggested and gently hammer the bolster if needed

well I have a TK4 coming and maybe a soddie, have to find a good one first, carbon steel of course :cool:

a one handed would be nice but here we cannot carry knives like you in the usa, a small/discreet one is all I can carry even on the job...

what about soddies from Kissing Krane, eye brand and others? good? found a couple cheap (15/25 usd shipped) on the "bay"

thanks everyone
cheers
Maxx
 
You see it as a problem max where as I see it as an inevitability for slippies, play will always develop and blades will always go dull. To me its just maintenance, just like rotating tires and oil changes.
 
Javelin said:
You see it as a problem max where as I see it as an inevitability for slippies, play will always develop and blades will always go dull. To me its just maintenance, just like rotating tires and oil changes.
Click to expand...
Yep, same here. Blade gets dull? Sharpen it. Blade gets loose? Tighten it.

bing bang boom.

;)
 
Great technique to give it a whack while wrapped in a magazine. I have been using my Case Soddie Jr. SS hard this week and it is hanging in there. Needs the edge touched up but that's all.
 
What about a Camillus TL-29? You also get a locking screwdriver blade in the bargain. The spear point blade is thin and the ones I've owned (got two now) have good carbon steel blades and they are cheap enough to buy on the bay. - Ed

Yeah, I know it is an electrician's knife, but it makes a pretty good knife for this kind of work too.

I guess I'm too poor to pay attention; just now realized you are in Italy. Might not be quite as easy to find these over there and they might not be legal carry.
 
I'll have to go with the sodbuster crowd on this. For some reason, soddies seem to stay tighter under lots of, dare I say it, "hard use".

I don't know why, but shadow patterns seem more rugged than a knife with bolsters. My Case CV soddie junior, and my Victorinox alox solo has stood up under abusive conditions since they are my "beater' knives. Even my cheepie sodbuster made by Kissing Krane has stood up to lots of breaking down White Flier boxes after re-stocking the trap and skeet machines at the range.

Carl.
 
bolstered knives are not the same as knives with screw pivot, that was my "problem"
will "hammer" the bolster if play comes, just didn't know about this solution until a few days ago :thumbup:

always wondered how play was fixed, now I "know"

I never have a dull blade ;)
 
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