Slipjoints-how flush is flush to you?

autogateman

autogateman

Rod Braud
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
180
When dialing everything in on your slipjoints, is there a degree of error you’re shooting for? Or do you work until it’s dead nuts 0 in all positions? I’ve been looking at some production folders I have that look good to the eye, but actually are probably 5-10 thou off in some positions. Just seeing how good is good enough for some of y’all.
Cheers,
Rod
 
I make the half closed and closed positions make the spring stick out 0.005" more than in the open position. I measure using calipers from the pivot pin to the back of the spring. When i do my first assembly, i grind the bolsters and liners down to the spring while the blade is open. scales are not attached at this point and i can dunk in water to cool off. Then i check how much is sticking out in the other positions. I mark nail nicks and cut them. Then i glue the scales on, take an even amount off heel and kick of the tangs, then do second assembly and clean up glue and check how much sticks out then. I may take a touch more off the tangs in a third assembly. Then i temp peen the knife together and finish sanding the blades and make sure they pass each other fine. I also check how much springs stick out one more time. If any is left sticking out, i will get it after i finish sanding the blades. I do a final clean and deburr and do one last assembly to make sure it is a go, and if it is i peen it permanently.

In short, i get it close with caliber measurements, but a tad over in half closed and closed positions, and then in the stages leading up to the final assembly i go entirely by feel.

I tried using rise fall indicator and measure precisely and all that. It just cant work all the time in my opinion because the other half of the handle isnt on and when it is it can affect things.
 
Last edited:
the best one I've made isn't more than .001-.002 off in all three positions.
I've only made half a dozen last year.
will be getting back into them again .... soon

Randy3000 said:
Then i temp peen the knife together and finish sanding the blades and make sure they pass each other fine. I also check how much springs stick out one more time. If any is left sticking out, i will get it after i finish sanding the blades. I do a final clean and deburr and do one last assembly to make sure it is a go, and if it is i peen it permanently.
Click to expand...

how do you temp peen together? and get it apart?
 
HSC /// said:
how do you temp peen together? and get it apart?
Click to expand...

I use brass pins since they are most malleable and contrast with silver bolster. I dont chamfer the bolster before peening like i do when permanently peening. I peen a head and pull everything tight and leave the head unground and sticking out. When i want to take apart i sand the head off, center punch it, and drill a shallow depth with a 1/16" bit (when using 3/32" pins), then drive the pin out.

Temp peening is needed on the multiblades since it can look like you have the blades ground well but after peening they can stick or rub.
 
If your finger (let alone your eye) can feel a difference, it's off. So can a savvy collector.

If it's all stainless or carbon steel (blades/springs/liners) in a perfect world, it'll look like a homogeneous piece of material when it's in any position. Some makers are known for stainless blades/spring/liners looking like a monolithic piece of material in each position. With mixed/composite materials, regardless, it should all be flush, even if the transitions are obvious.


I don't "temp peen", personally, but I use temp pins, constantly, shaping all parts, independently, until it's right . If I do my final pin, and i can't make everything "right", I tear it apart, fix it, and re-pin (permanently) it, until it is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top