Slow down motor with rheostat?

When Wayne first started he was the cheapest I could find.

for example = last year, to this year - the KBAC-27D controller increased by $100


Keep looking
Ebay has lots of motors, the shipping kills it for me, but maybe not for you.
 
The motor from Wayne shipping was included.

Whatever motor you decide on be sure to make sure it is powerful enough and will not bog down and is sealed. Also do not forget to calculate in the price of the on/off switch and cord as well as the cable glands and how to wire it up.

When I was looking at the motors online I had no reference point to compare to. Sure they looked good on paper but how would it perform on the grinder. I know the motor Wayne sold passed the "Smell Test" and would work fine on my grinder. That peace of mind was worth not worrying about what to do with a motor that would bog down if purchased from another source.

Another good thing is my motor had some damage from UPS and Wayne made good on getting it corrected.

If we do not support the small knifemaking community it will no longer be affordable for some of these guys to stay in business. The couple extra bucks it might cost to support the community is money well spent.

Buy where you can afford, but if you can afford to buy from a supplier in the knife community that is a good first choice to consider.
 
Count, Shipping is the worst thing to my location. It turns a $70 motor to a $130 motor depending on where it is coming from. AVigil, I'll check it out. I can do some of my own wiring and that doesn't bother me much, however I agree with supporting the community. But price is a big point for me right now and maybe it just wont work out that way.
 
From the little I can gather on the subject the newer motors have capacitors of some kind in them and a rheostat burns them out...
 
Keep looking on fleabay and Craigslist. I just picked up a 2HP TEFC 1750 rpm 180V DC motor for $150. There are lots of AC motors on there, but shipping might be a bit (although some of them include free shipping). I've been looking for about 3 or 4 months, so it might also take a little bit of time.
 
So I came across a craftsman 2x42 that I picked up and I have been setting it up so I can use it for grinding. Its to fast and the motor starts with capacitors so that is why you don't want to use a rheostat with that or other capacitor start motors.

Do you guys think that a 1/2HP 1725RPM motor hooked up to pulleys and then up to the craftsman will work ok? The original HP of the craftsman is 1/3HP.
 
TheWeatherman said:
So I came across a craftsman 2x42 that I picked up and I have been setting it up so I can use it for grinding. Its to fast and the motor starts with capacitors so that is why you don't want to use a rheostat with that or other capacitor start motors.

Do you guys think that a 1/2HP 1725RPM motor hooked up to pulleys and then up to the craftsman will work ok? The original HP of the craftsman is 1/3HP.
Click to expand...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qfYT_m2Tw0
 
Yeah, I saw that. He is using a 3/4HP. My reasoning that a 1/2HP will work is because the craftsman is running a 1/3HP so it should be ok.
 
It should work. Might bog down a little bit, but just work with a light touch and you should be ok.
 
So I guess the right way to go would be to use step pulleys. Can anyone explain the different speeds that are achieved with a 3 step pulley set up with a 1725RPM motor? When you put the pulleys on, which way (little to little size or big to little size) gives you the right speeds you suggest?
 
To step down the speed of the belt, small pulley on motor, large pulley on drive wheel. Belt speed in linear feet per minute = (circumference of motor pulley in feet X rpm) X (diameter of motor pulley/diameter of drive pulley).
 
I understand what you said, let me say a little different. What speed do you guys shoot for? And when you use pulleys do you use the same step pulleys, a step pulley on motor and a step pulley on grinder?

Figured it out, never mind.
 
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