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I would not use Tough Quench on W2, especially on larger blades. Been there, done that, had the "unintended hamon" to show that it didn't harden much of the blade. Tough Quench is a 12-13 second oil, whereas #50 is around a 7 second oil. IIRC, Tough Quench is a relabeled Houghton product and it is not their fastest oil. They make one that it is in about the same range as #50.(Quench Q?) With that said, if you are using any of the steels other than W2, W1 or 1095, then Tough Quench may be your best single product solution. It seems to work fine on deeper hardening stuff like 5160 or 01 as well as 1080 and 1084.1084...med-fast quench....Parks 50, Brownells Tough Quench (Quench K)...
1095, W-1, W-2....fast quench...Parks 50, water/brine, Brownells Tough Quench.
O-1...Slow quench. Parks AAA, thin mineral oil.
Added:.......Generally, Manganese levels will be a good indication of required
quench speed.......W-2...usually .2-.4%.............1084....6-.9%, ...etc.
I would not use Tough Quench on W2, especially on larger blades. Been there, done that, had the "unintended hamon" to show that it didn't harden much of the blade. Tough Quench is a 12-13 second oil, whereas #50 is around a 7 second oil. IIRC, Tough Quench is a relabeled Houghton product and it is not their fastest oil. They make one that it is in about the same range as #50.(Quench Q?) With that said, if you are using any of the steels other than W2, W1 or 1095, then Tough Quench may be your best single product solution. It seems to work fine on deeper hardening stuff like 5160 or 01 as well as 1080 and 1084.
I don' tknow about the tough quench but Houghton's fast oil is Houghto Quench K and it works for 1095. If a blade is too thick and/or not hot enough, it will give you an 'accidental hamon'.