slow to rise oven temp?

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Jun 5, 2008
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First run with a new-to-me oven. It's a 220 volt dental casting oven, digital controlled. 12x12x4" interior. Should be gaining 20+ degrees per minute according to the guy I got it from, but it's averaged 6.4 degrees per minute over the past 70 minutes. It is up to temp now, 1020C. Any ideas on why an oven might heat at slower than the usual rate?
 
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How many watts is it or how many amps is it rated for. Amps x volts = watts. More watts=more speed. How hot does the outside get? Better insulation=less loss=more speed. What kind of controller. Digital, does it have relays or SSR. If it has relays you might hear a it click on and off. SSRs will be silent. Possible that a set of relay contacts are bad and an element is not getting all the voltage. Maybe it runs 2 elements in parallel and one broke in shipment. They are a lot more brittle after initial use.

Another thing is usually an oven can climb rapidly at first, but as it reaches higher temps it slows down 1020C or 1868 is getting up there. If it was at 50c when you started after 70 min at 6.4c per minute=498C ????
 
I'm assuming it's digital, as it's got a push button control panel with digital readout. About 3500 watts max according to the manual. No major clicks, but you can hear the hum when it kicks on. It climbed slow throughout. My number is based on two time points, one at 590C and the other at 1050C. I didn't note the time when I started, but it took around an hour to get to 590. Once it's cooled off tomorrow I'll pop the back panel off and see if it's running on only one element or something. I didn't have the kiln door open early on to see if both elements were getting hot. By the time I opened it up at 1050, everything was yellow :) I did manage to heat treat 9 blades this evening, including a 12 inch kitchen knife. My old oven would barely fit 7 3/4" :)

Looks like this (internet photo)
DC_0006.JPG
 
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Also, most dental ovens are near their max at 1000°C. They can really slow down and take a looooong time to get to around 1900F/1050C.
 
Stacy,
Max on this one by the manual is 1150C. I didn't notice much change in rate throughout. Didn't seem to slow down much toward the top end, although it did a little bit. Also, it was still 190 C this morning after having the door closed all night. I suspect it's well insulated, weighs 55 kg.
Jason
 
Its digital and most likely run with SSR. Looks like it has all the bells and whistles. I think your main problem is that its only 1800 watts and that isn't a lot when you are going to 1000C. If you prepare for the time thing it shouldn't be that much of a problem and no need for a hold point at 1500 for the high alloy stuff, Just keep it moving.
 
Check the program and see if the ramp rate is set to 9999 as suggested. Beyond that, it takes time to heat up the well insulated refractory lining. This is also why it takes a long time to cool down. The listed max being 1150°C is sometimes like the speedometer on my car going up to 120MPH.

Generally, I prefer a slower ramp rate and more even temperature control on my stainless HT regimens .... especially as it approaches the target for austenitization. Remember, the TC reads the air temp in the oven , the blade packet is larger than the TC, and is absorbing the radiant energy from the coils faster. Thus, the two are not necessarily the same temp if the heat is being applied at the max rate. On the ramp from equalization at 750°C to 1050°C, the blade may pass the target by a good bit before the TC equalizes the chamber atmosphere with the denser blade steel. The slower ramp rate helps prevent overshooting the target. If a fast ramp is desired, make it fast from 750°C to 900°C and then slower from there to the target temp.

The lower ramp rate does not really affect the regimen time much. Say you are going from 750°C to 1050°C. At a ramp rate of 9999 the oven will take 1.8 minutes in theory. We all know that isn't going to happen. Setting the rate at 3000 will still get there in about ten minutes. The overshooting will be less, because the slower rate is more realistic than trying to heat it up beyond the capacity of the refractory to absorb the heat.
 
Ya that many watts should be faster. What I do now that I have a Programable PID, is set a target s little belwow wheree I really want, then slow it down to hit my real target temp. Helps avoid that overshoot.
 
are you bypassing the burnout regimen in the controller? if that is your controller it is set so ramp to a low temp, hold it, ramp to the next temp and hold it and so on, it is wonderfully convenient that it has a burnout stepper with such an easy interface. My guess is that you are not burning out casting flasks so your controller which is designed to make burnout technician proof may be not allowing a full on 100% heat cycle

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