Small fixed blade EDC? 1075 vs 440A vs D2

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So, my friend will go to a store tommorrow and buy small cheap fixed blade for EDC.

Budget is 25€.

He is set to get Condor Fidelis in 1075 steel and there's some other knife in 440A from Boker Magnum which I suggested as alternative in that price range.

And now I'm even considering one of those myself LOL.

Any alternatives? Unlike him, I have no issues ordering something online. But keeping the price down would be ideal. I got my eye on Real Steel Connector in D2.
I ordered Cold Steel Mini Pendleton Hunter in 3V a while ago, but I'm still not receiving it. I'm considering getting something else since I might soon be asking for a refund on this one since I doubt I'll get it.
 
I guess it depends on what your priorities are. In the edge retention game, D2 will blow the others out of the water in that it'll hold a working edge much longer.

If toughness is higher on your list, (as could be foreseeable in a fixed blade), I'd go with 1075. I've had D2 chip on me where a carbon steel like 1075 would simply roll or bend, which is much easier to fix.

If corrosion resistance is higher on your list, 440A beats out both of the others. Although 440A is unimpressive in other aspects.

Personally, I'd lean towards D2 if I could only have one. Being careful not to chip the blade and making mild considerations against corrosion is well worth the edge retention in my book. However, I have blades in steels suited for all of tough, abrasive, and corrosive tasks.

What perhaps matters more is what you'll use it for, and simply which blade do you (or your friend) like better.
 
Eversion said:
I guess it depends on what your priorities are. In the edge retention game, D2 will blow the others out of the water in that it'll hold a working edge much longer.

If toughness is higher on your list, (as could be foreseeable in a fixed blade), I'd go with 1075. I've had D2 chip on me where a carbon steel like 1075 would simply roll or bend, which is much easier to fix.

If corrosion resistance is higher on your list, 440A beats out both of the others. Although 440A is unimpressive in other aspects.

Personally, I'd lean towards D2 if I could only have one. Being careful not to chip the blade and making mild considerations against corrosion is well worth the edge retention in my book. However, I have blades in steels suited for all of tough, abrasive, and corrosive tasks.

What perhaps matters more is what you'll use it for, and simply which blade do you (or your friend) like better.
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Thank you very much.

He is set on 1075 since it's easiest to sharpen and he wants thin and tough blade. He doesn't care about edge retention that much.

I think I'll go with D2, altough it's more expensive it has excellent edge retention, and is stainless enough so I don't have to really care about it.

Each of these steels has something going for it and would probably be decent EDC material... I had D2 knife as EDC knife in the past and I remember I was happy with it. So I'll most likley opt for that.
 
Smiling said:
So, my friend will go to a store tommorrow and buy small cheap fixed blade for EDC.

Budget is 25€.

He is set to get Condor Fidelis in 1075 steel and there's some other knife in 440A from Boker Magnum which I suggested as alternative in that price range.

And now I'm even considering one of those myself LOL.

Any alternatives? Unlike him, I have no issues ordering something online. But keeping the price down would be ideal. I got my eye on Real Steel Connector in D2.
I ordered Cold Steel Mini Pendleton Hunter in 3V a while ago, but I'm still not receiving it. I'm considering getting something else since I might soon be asking for a refund on this one since I doubt I'll get it.
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Boker Magnum knives are junk, steer away from this one.
If you really want it though the same exact knives are generally sold first under other random brands for much less.
 
What about the Condor Mayflower. I have one and it would work nicely for an edc? I believe it is done in 440C.
 
There is nothing wrong with 440A. Properly heat-treated, it kind of splits the difference. It's tougher than D2, but doesn't hold an edge as long, probably about equal to 1075. Easier to sharpen than D2, but doesn't get quite as sharp as 1075. It is not the most stainless stainless steel out there, but it is adequate. In fact, one could say that 440A is to 1075 what 440C is to 1095. Not that there is anything wrong with D2, because there's not. If the heat-treatment is right, I would take D2 over 1075 or 440A all day. Every day.
 
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440C works well in an EDC knife of moderate cost. I like D2 a little better because it has a 'toothy' edge I'm assuming from larger carbides which is why it seems harder to sharpen. Edge geometry is important so, a lesser steel in a better geometry could turn out to be a better EDC knife than a more expensive knife in a 'better' steel.

Boker 'Spanish' knives are good values that have worked well for me and while the stainless designation doesn't translate directly for me seems to be similar to 440C in some of them while others are a 440A variant.

Stamped blades can work well in a small folder but, I generally find them too soft for even small fixed blades. Morakniv and EKA (and I sure some similar local brands) with 12C27 are VERY good values in an EDC knife too!
 
yeah, what sid post said... go for a mora

for 25 you could get 2 ;) a mora carbon companion & the stainless version in 12c27 - both are super tough!

(or get one of the classics with wooden handle - which is a great sanding project if you want to thin it out for a more oval shape)
 
22-rimfire said:
What about the Condor Mayflower. I have one and it would work nicely for an edc? I believe it is done in 440C.
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Awesome knife, but in that price range I would rather get Esee Candiru or Izula.
dirc said:
yeah, what sid post said... go for a mora

for 25 you could get 2 ;) a mora carbon companion & the stainless version in 12c27 - both are super tough!

(or get one of the classics with wooden handle - which is a great sanding project if you want to thin it out for a more oval shape)
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Mora is too hard to conceal unfortunatley. I think that Moras would be harder to conceal than his Esee 3, and if he finds Esee 3 too big for some occassions then Mora would be too large too.

And I just want something to have a knife for now. I think only way how a Mora would work for me is if I sanded down that round handle and made it a new sheath.
 
justjed said:
There is nothing wrong with 440A. Properly heat-treated, it kind of splits the difference. It's tougher than D2, but doesn't hold an edge as long, probably about equal to 1075. Easier to sharpen than D2, but doesn't get quite as sharp as 1075. It is not the most stainless stainless steel out there, but it is adequate. In fact, one could say that 440A is to 1075 what 440C is to 1095. Not that there is anything wrong with D2, because there's not. If the heat-treatment is right, I would take D2 over 1075 or 440A all day. Every day.
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This is a good and detailed description.

440A is a bit tougher than 440C but holds an edge bit less.
1075 is a bit tougher than 1095 but holds an edge bit less.
D2 will beat both in edge retention but it might not be nearly as tough as 1075 and isn't as corrosion resistant as 440A.

D2 however seems like most well rounded steel here.

Boker Magnum is junk as I can see...
Real Steel and Condor seem to be good brands for people on a tight budget.
 
25 euro is about $27 usd.

Between the 1075 and 440a, I'd choose 1075 probably. I know what I'm getting with a Condor. Not sure on 440a from Boker although Boker has been around a long time.

This available? A few different options and colors. Easy to conceal and light.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Buck-PakLite-Caper-Fixed-Blade--107614
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Buck-PakLite-Skinner-Fixed-Blade--106685
Not a fan of 420HC but Buck and Mr Bos does it right.

The Real Steel is twice the budget. The Real Steel choice is your choice and not your friends? I'd Real Steel if you can.
 
If concealability is a concern, things change a lot. A pocketable folder might be a better option in your price range.

An Opinel Garden model conceals easily in a pocket with its round shape and soft edges (i.e. no outlining or printing).

For fixed blades, a neck knife is probably the best option.
 
440A in a fixed blade is a no go from me, bruh. Only things it does well is not rust and sharpen easily. I’d take any carbon steel over it. D2 is the clear winner of the 3 steels you listed.
 
gazz98 said:
25 euro is about $27 usd.

Between the 1075 and 440a, I'd choose 1075 probably. I know what I'm getting with a Condor. Not sure on 440a from Boker although Boker has been around a long time.

This available? A few different options and colors. Easy to conceal and light.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Buck-PakLite-Caper-Fixed-Blade--107614
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Buck-PakLite-Skinner-Fixed-Blade--106685
Not a fan of 420HC but Buck and Mr Bos does it right.

The Real Steel is twice the budget. The Real Steel choice is your choice and not your friends? I'd Real Steel if you can.
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Yeah, Real Steel is my choice, he's really set on Condor though, mainly because of the price and ease of sharpening.

These Buck models look decent and are fairly priced, thanks. I'll give them a look.
 
I would go with D2, do not baton with it as it could chip, but a good toothy working edge will go on for a good long while. 1075 is a good steel for toughness, and should sharpen easily. The 440A I would also stay away from, Boker's Magnum brand is made in China (unless it has changed). Good idea to check out Buck knives. The heat treat on their 420HC is well done. Several of the Paklite models are good users without handle scales, maybe it will help in pocket carry, conceal-ability. What are the laws in your country? You could chord wrap them if want some more grip.
 
cbach8tw said:
I would go with D2, do not baton with it as it could chip, but a good toothy working edge will go on for a good long while. 1075 is a good steel for toughness, and should sharpen easily. The 440A I would also stay away from, Boker's Magnum brand is made in China (unless it has changed). Good idea to check out Buck knives. The heat treat on their 420HC is well done. Several of the Paklite models are good users without handle scales, maybe it will help in pocket carry, conceal-ability. What are the laws in your country? You could chord wrap them if want some more grip.
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I can legally carry a fixed blade if it's not double edged, has no knuckles (like trench knife) and you also have to have a reason for having it.

No specific laws about size of the blade, but nobody even questions small knives while you could get in trouble for carrying something like Bowie knife. It's a lot easier to justify why you need a small knife.

If you have specific job or are going to a hike or back - no problem.
But if you claim that you are using something like SRK or Ka Bar as your unboxing knife, to cut lose strings or something like that - you could have some trouble.

As for small fixed blades - they won't even ask. But anything from openin packages, cutting loose strings, using them as bottle opener or scraper will be enough. I mean after all those are actual reasons why we need an EDC knife. And I doubt that many people need large fixed blade as EDC.
 
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