Small Pocket Sheaths

[Horsewright]

Nice looking work!

 

[blgoode]

Okay this one was a challenge.

Had to make sure it was secure in sheath plus not stick your leg through too soft or thin leather.

Very happy with this sheath. I didn’t think I could pull it off with the clip and a classic single welt. I don’t like double sided welt for pocket carry. I guess I’m a weirdo

 

[sodak]

Beautiful!

 

[jfk1110]

Finished off a new batch of knives and sheaths. Most of these are currently on the website:

A newer handle material to me, that I think I'll be using often, giraffe bone:

Made a couple of my Pancake sheaths for some outside knives too:

Beautiful work, as always

 

[Horsewright]

Beautiful work, as always

Thank you sir! Think somehow this got in the wrong post though.

 

[blgoode]

Thank you sir! Think somehow this got in the wrong post though.

What type leather do you use the most ?

 

[Horsewright]

Almost exclusively Wickett and Craig russet skirting leather in 8/10 oz weight.

 

[blgoode]

Thank you

 

[Horsewright]

Thank you

You bet anytime. Over the years I’ve moved away from dyeing leather. Too many problems. You can use drum dyed leather from the tannery and avoid these problems.

 

[blgoode]

You bet anytime. Over the years I’ve moved away from dyeing leather. Too many problems. You can use drum dyed leather from the tannery and avoid these problems.

Yes. I am moving that direction currently.

 

[blgoode]

You bet anytime. Over the years I’ve moved away from dyeing leather. Too many problems. You can use drum dyed leather from the tannery and avoid these problems.

I did but some pre dyed dark brown English bridle leather but it has different rigidity than skirting. I have some brown skirting on the way soon.

 

[Horsewright]

I did but some pre dyed dark brown English bridle leather but it has different rigidity than skirting. I have some brown skirting on the way soon.

Bridle leather is good stuff. Use to use it a lot on belts and headstalls. Not great for sheaths though as all the waxes etc prevent it from molding well. You'll be happy with your brown skirting.

 

[jfk1110]

Thank you sir! Think somehow this got in the wrong post though.

Dooooohhhhh!............Whoops!! sorry Dave.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Nice work, seeing these I am reminded of a post by Paul Long sheathmaker

Hey Stuart, for knives with no guard and extreme sharp pointy tips I put JB weld on and in the welt at the tip prior to final assemble be it pouch or blade sheath style. When the JB hardens and the sheath is glued up it forms a barrier to help keep the pointy tip from piercing the tip of the sheath should the new owner be a little too aggressive or unattentive when inserting the knife.

Paul

Which would add a bit of extra safety when wearing it in the pocket, as I have first hand knowledge of how things can go wrong.
G2

 

[blgoode]

Nice work, seeing these I am reminded of a post by Paul Long sheathmaker



Which would add a bit of extra safety when wearing it in the pocket, as I have first hand knowledge of how things can go wrong.
G2

Oh wow. That’s a great idea.

 

[Horsewright]

Oh wow. That’s a great idea.

I’ve used super glue for the same thing and have used Paul’s JB Weld trick too.

 

[Horsewright]

If the shape of the knife (a finger guard etc) allows it there is even a better way

Notice the upper row of stitching outlining the welt:

The part of the wet on the left of the "valley" provides retention. The part of the welt to the right of the "valley" provides safety against the knife poking through the bottom of the sheath. The front of the finger guard contacts the right side of the valley and this prevents the knife from traveling farther in the sheath. It can't poke through the tip of the sheath as it is literally prevented from going that far.

Couple of valley welts above and a regular below for comparison:

Here's an inside look at the valley welt and you can see that the front of the finger guard contacts the welt before the tip can: