Small Sebenza first impressions from a newbie

For enhancing sharpness out of the box, I would suggest stropping first. (Of course that means you have to have one!). The nice thing about the factory edge on CRKs is that they are convex and polished. The convex edge can only be put on with a slack belt; V-sharpeners or stones will not give you this convex profile. Convex edges may not be the best slicers, but they have other advantages of strength and durability, having more metal behind the cutting edge. The convex edge profile is why it is so time consuming to re-profile on a Sharpmaker or other system; you have to remove a lot of metal to get a more acute, flat edge profile. The result is a better slicer but a more delicate edge.
I find that stropping a CRK knife that seems dull out of the box brings the edge to razor sharpness, without removing metal or the fine polish that the factory puts on the edge bevel. In fact, frequent stropping is the absolute best (and by far, easiest) way to keep and maintain the edge at peak performance; the need to sharpen the blade (i.e., remove metal!) is dramatically reduced.
 
jki said:
...In fact, frequent stropping is the absolute best (and by far, easiest) way to keep and maintain the edge at peak performance; the need to sharpen the blade (i.e., remove metal!) is dramatically reduced.
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So you mean slapping/stropping/gliding the edge it on a belt will keep it sharp ?
Any ide why this is so ?
 
historically leather has been the choice for creating a very fine edge, like on a straight razor. i have a strop i use after the stones. seems to remove burrs and metal shavings very well.

not sure why, but it does work
 
Stropping works because it "restores" the fine edge that sharpening creates. The first thing that happens to a newly sharpened edge when cutting is that the razor thin edge (wire edge) "rolls over" to one side or another (unless the blade steel is too brittle, in which case the keen edge tends to fracture and chip out.) The edge is still there; it is just doubled over on itself and feels "less sharp." Stropping restores the edge by "unfolding" the razor cutting bead. The same principle is behind the butcher's steel - keeping the razor edge exposed by unfolding the microedge. Unlike the butcher's steel, however, stropping can both restore the microedge and polish it smooth, depending upon optional use of stopping compound. This polishing action further maintains the sharpness of the wire edge. The first time I used a strop, I was amazed at how sharp the blade became by just drawing the edge across a piece of leather! Unless I do some really heavy duty cutting, stropping is all my blades ever need to maintain razor sharpness, and it does so withour removing any metal. Try it, you'll like it!
 
Loosening the pivot screw does not loosen the action. The pivot bushing prevents any change in the action, unlike on a Benchmade, or Spyderco, or any knife without a bushing. Any loosening is probably in your head, because it is pretty much impossible for it to loosen if the rest of the handle is assembled properly.

Not only this, but loosening the pivot screw can cause it to start unscrewing, and you could lose the screw. If the screw is tightened all the way it will not come unscrewed due to the incredbily high tolerances, and therefore loc-tite is unneeded.
 
I didn't have high expectations when I first received my first brand new Sebenza (plain large Classic MM). They may not be for everyone but I for one enjoy owning and using it. I now own 3 Sebenzas and I am very happy with them. BTW, I like the stonewash look of the blade because it hides much of the scratches that I may put on it when I use it.
 
One thing to say, never give up, it's that last final bit of sharpening that gets
the edge down to the very edge, just a small portion away and you will have
a knife that seems sharp, a little more work and you'll have a knife that will
amaze you. I had this happen recently with some ZDP-189, HARD stuff and
it took me forever using ceramics to finally get it down to the edge, once there,
wow, extremely sharp, same with my recent large Sebenza, arrived in
need of a touch up, was a used one I bought from another forum member, and
after a short time it too was very sharp, one of the sharpest Sebenza's I've
ever owned in fact.
BUT, the key is sharpening correctly, and I'd recommend starting out on some
kitchen knives before moving on to the higher end knives. And some people do
not have the knack/gift to sharpen knives, so as in an old movie quote
'a man's got to know his limitations' it may well be that you just need to befriend
someone that has this ability to sharpen, and maybe learn from them!
G2
 
I went to a knife shop yesterday and handled dozens of folders to get some perspective.

I won't name names, but as for build quality, the Sebenza was head and shoulders abouve the rest.
Actually, the "feel" of many of the folders was shockingly bad in comparison.
I was very impressed with some of the Kershaw and Spyderco models, however.

Interesting to note that other brand's frame locks at the shop were much stiffer than my Sebbie.


Now, I did find that the edge on my NIB Sebbie is just plain dull. Other knives could cut diagonal bits of paper off onto the floor with a fast motion, but my Sebbie would just tear it unless I was very slow and careful.

So...
 
I bought a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

I watched the DVD (that Sal is a natural salesman:thumbup: ) and easily sharpened my SAK to shaving sharpness.

Tried my Sebbie next and, like so many others here, couldn't get it sharp. :grumpy:

I'm using the corner and flat of the white stone at 40 deg.

I imagine it's the shoulders of the convex edge getting in the way?
I tried the felt tip trick and I could remove the mark, no problem.

I didn't want to take too much metal off this new knife so I stopped.
I'm not impressed with having to buy a special sharpener and faffing about with a new 365 doaller knife :(

As always, your help is apprieciated.
 
I experienced the same thing when my Sebenza came, it was not as dull as yours, but when I decided it was time to sharpen, it took me forever to remove the shoulders of the convex edge. Use the grey stones, not the white. You may want to buy the diamond stones for the Sharpmaker, it will save you time.
 
I have my grandfather's strop, the kind that you hook to a doorknob.

3 questions about that stropping "paste"

-what is it?

-where can I find it? I imagine a hardware store won't have it?

-is it really neccesary? Can I use the strop without the paste?
 
Mine has become noticeably easier to open in the month that I have had it. It is still firm, but easier. It is probably more of getting used to a little different opening motion than anything else. On many knives you end up putting pressure directly on the thumb stud when you open the blade. But with the Sebenza you put your thumb a little to the side and push it.

Before you go to the stropping step, if you have not used a strop before I would suggest getting the sharpmaker down first. Otherwise you may just be moving from one problem to the next. With the magic marker, do you remove the mark all the way to the edge? Look carefully with a magnifier. You might still be working on the shoulder of the bevel.

Strop compound is available from many sources. Some folks like some kinds others prefer others. Try Hand American or Lee Valley. Some will be oil pastes, others will be wax based. I have one from Lee Valley and a set of two compounds from Bark River.

Stropping has it own idiosyncracies that can be frustrating at first. It takes very little pressure, otherwise you just dull the edge. But done properly you will be amazed at the edge it produces (but you must start with an edge that is already sharp). A convex edge responds better to stropping in my experience.

As for the blade finish, my preference is for more of a satin finish. I bought one with the "polished" blade. I like it a lot more than the stone washed finish. You could send yours in to CRK to get the blade polished for a nominal fee (check the CRK web site, I think it about $23).
 
I for one love the stone washed blade finsih. I wish more knives came with that style finish. It's one that you can use and use and it just never looks much different. It may not be the prettiest, but the plain Sebenza isn't about being pretty. It's about being functional.

As for the sharpness issue, well, that sucks. I've had great luck with every Sebenza I've ever had but I guess no company is perfect (though CRK comes close from my experience).

I hope you have good luck getting it sharpened up.
 
a couple things make the sebenza difficult to sharpen.

1. convex edge.

2. s30v steel, takes and holds a great edge, but once it is dull, takes forever to resharpen on stones. i have found that after some use i touch it up on the sharpmaker to maintain the edge works best.

dont let it get dull! after any use, touch it up. even 2-3 strokes on the white stones will keep it sharp.
 
Im sending mine back because I scored the blade up on a diamond stick. I also didnt get it any sharper doing it!

They said they can make it better. My blade wasnt stone wash but has a polish to it being a classic with wood maybe makes a difference?
 
Mike:

I know I might sound like a broken record but send it back to CRK and learn to strop. I takes a lot of work to get the edge right on a sharpmaker. The edge-pro system is a good way to go also. Do yourself a favor, send it back and believe me they will return it blistering sharp and then you can keep it that way by stropping regularly. Yeah it might be a hassle but it sounds like you are on the way to really screwing up the blade. I've been in your position, it's really worth it to save yourself the aggravation. Get it done right! You won't regret it.;)
 
Hi all,

First off, thanks everybody for their input.

I've gotten the edge sharp enough that I'm happy so I can wait for an opportunity to get some stropping fluid.
It's easy to get carried away trying to get it "Olfa boxcutter sharp".

As for stiffness, it's either breaking in or I'm getting used to it. I find the best way to open it one-handed is to use both thumb lugs, with thumb and forefinger.

I ordered some CRK lube nevertheless and look forward to taking it apart.

Anyways, here it is again with a watch that used to belong to Tom Mayo.
IMG_2365.jpg
 
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