Small yet full knives.

Can you please elaborate, I've owned neither.
The 2 has an extra 1/2 inch of handle. The original Izula had a cramped 4 finger grip for me whereas the 2 is a full grip. At least for my hands. The 2 also comes with better scales then the original which has aftermarket "bikini" scales. Or, scales that only go part way. Compare my old original Izzy below with the one in the OP pic.

2010-09-09145317.jpg
[/IMG]
 
oh, man this thread makes me miss my izula 2! i just sold it to a good friend a few days ago. it's just too thick for me for food prep. ditto on the handle - the 2 is way better than the izula.
 
Can you please elaborate, I've owned neither.

Hey upnorth.

I received an Izula from an over-generous forum member and it's a nice little knife, in part, because of the sentimental value. However, the handle is just too short for me. I bought the Izzy II and the handle fits me perfectly. I don't think I have oversized hands, but large gloves are usually too small.

It has now become a full-time member of the DOC-CANADA 4 (as compared to the Nessmuck III) - Becker Machax, BRKT Bravo-1, Izula II, and folding saw.

Doc
 
Hey upnorth.

I received an Izula from an over-generous forum member and it's a nice little knife, in part, because of the sentimental value. However, the handle is just too short for me. I bought the Izzy II and the handle fits me perfectly. I don't think I have oversized hands, but large gloves are usually too small.

It has now become a full-time member of the DOC-CANADA 4 (as compared to the Nessmuck III) - Becker Machax, BRKT Bravo-1, Izula II, and folding saw.

Doc

Thank you sir. I have a fond place in my heart for my little BK-14 but always felt that the handle was about an inch too short. I will have to investigate the Izula 2 further.:thumbup:
 
What is your favorite small knife that has a full 4 finger handle? Have any of your small blades surprised you in just how useful they can be?

I have Scandi Finish and Norge knives that all have a full 4" handles with a 70 cm to 85 cm blade (about 2 3/4" to 3 1/4")
They call them carving knives
The full size handle gives you a control on the blade and allows you to use a much smaller blade and allows you to use the point of the blade
In fact I find I can do anything with these knives as I can with a longer blade
(I don't hunt and I baton with an axe)

Ahti 9605 The Eräpuukko (Hunting knife)
Brusletto Profileringskniv
Wood Jewel
 
I must say, that orangey Izzy II is VERY tempting! I have been considerign one for a good while now and am still trying to decide on one of these or a Bravo Necker.

Like neeman, I too am a bit of a puukko-phile, for me they fall perfectly in to this category but often the handles can be a tad short (by about a half/whole finger's worth of grip). I handle my own blades and like a longer grip for a small 3-4" type blade.

Here's my favorite 'necker', an UHC (ultra high carbon) Roselli puukko (3.35"), with stabilised birch handle and copper/birch bark bolster:

P1010024-4.jpg


And a 3.74" Polar puukko blade....with a loooong handle:

P1190002.jpg


And here is the same blade but in a shorter three (and a half) finger grip:

P1010013.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have been gravitating towards smaller knives for some time on, that and a machete is all what I need around here. Could be complement with a Mora of some sort.
So far the small knife role has been covered by a mini Pendleton Hunter, very good tool but I am ready for something else.
I was after a BRKT little carver for my Christmas present, but due to work related issues did not order it on time to receive it while I was in the US during December.
Now I am torn between the little carver, a Blind Horse or an Izula II. May be a birthday present.
Decisions, decisions...!!!
 
I must say, that orangey Izzy II is VERY tempting! I have been considerign one for a good while now and am still trying to decide on one of these or a Bravo Necker.

Like neeman, I too am a bit of a puukko-phile, for me they fall perfectly in to this category but often the handles can be a tad short (by about a half/whole finger's worth of grip). I handle my own blades and like a longer grip for a small 3-4" type blade.

Here's my favorite 'necker', an UHC (ultra high carbon) Roselli puukko (3.35"), with stabilised birch handle and copper/birch bark bolster:

P1010024-4.jpg


And a 3.74" Polar puukko blade....with a loooong handle:

P1190002.jpg


And here is the same blade but in a shorter three (and a half) finger grip:

P1010013.jpg


Very nice indeed
Yes I like a 4" handle

I have a Roselli puukko carpenter and a Lauri 95cm waiting for me to handle them
This will be a first for me, so I am waiting to learn how to do it.
 
Thanks neeman.

If you need any help, advice or pointing towards a tutorial etc drop me a PM.
 
I think the DPx HEST is probably my biggest small knife, though I have a few other knives that do a great job. There are a couple of key points to making this happen.

The first is reducing 'unuseable' overall length. If it's not cutting edge, and it's not handle length, get rid of it. Ricasso, excess indexing, space taken up by manufacturing limitations, etc. all add to overall length, overall weight and reduced tip control. The Rising Wolf is an excellent example above (actually all of the Bark River examples posted are great)-no ricasso or wasted space between useable handle and cutting edge, and the minimal space not used for grip or cutting edge is the rounded pommel of the grip. The RAT-1 is a very poor example. It has a HUGE ricasso, large sloppy manufacturing space of the handle before the ricasso, and leaves you with more than an inch of wasted space between the grip and useable edge.

The second key to getting the most use out of a small knife lies in the blade profile. Having a working point and the longest amount of usable blade length is important. The more curviture you can pack in the same blade length, the more slicing edge you have-IE, belly. There's a line between creating the most functional edge in the same amount of space and overdoing it-some manufactured recurves add so much that it takes away from the practicality by making sharpening a pain in the butt, drastically increasing the complexity of use, etc. Usually the more belly you have, the less of a pronounced point you wind up with, but dropped and clipped points can help maximize both usable edge and working point, while centering the point along the axis of the handle for ergonomics and ease of use. Dropping or clipping the point to where it reduces most of the belly is inefficient, and alot of otherwise great knives-like Spyderco for example-drop the point too far and leave you with less working edge and don't really offer any benefit. I don't have any knives dropped past a spear point for this exact reason. The HEST has some fantastic belly, as do the Izula and most of the Bark River designs offered above.

If you can wiggle in ergonomics for blade control while reducing hand fatigue into these two points, you will have an effective little big knife. The HEST has some very slight unusable space-there's the tiny bit of pommel guard, tiny bit of integral guard and the wire breaker/fire striker at the base of the blade, though these are sacrifices of weight and overall length for better ergonomics and multipurpose functionality. The blade profile with a very efficient drop point and fantastic belly definitely help overcome this. The RAT1, otherwise one of my favorite user folders, also has a near perfect edge profile and drop point, but I find the unusable space between the cutting edge and the handle just horrendous. Not only does it increase weight and bulk, but it also reduces ergonomics and tip control.

These are just my personal opinions about knife design, they probably aren't perfect. Of course there are particular specialized designs for particular purposes, like wharncliffes, hook knives, etc- sure they have their purposes, but when talking about the most efficient small allarounder, I apply these scrutinies when purchasing my knives. *hint hint, all you knifemakers ;)
 
I think the DPx HEST is probably my biggest small knife, though I have a few other knives that do a great job. There are a couple of key points to making this happen.

The first is reducing 'unuseable' overall length. If it's not cutting edge, and it's not handle length, get rid of it. Ricasso, excess indexing, space taken up by manufacturing limitations, etc. all add to overall length, overall weight and reduced tip control. The Rising Wolf is an excellent example above (actually all of the Bark River examples posted are great)-no ricasso or wasted space between useable handle and cutting edge, and the minimal space not used for grip or cutting edge is the rounded pommel of the grip. The RAT-1 is a very poor example. It has a HUGE ricasso, large sloppy manufacturing space of the handle before the ricasso, and leaves you with more than an inch of wasted space between the grip and useable edge.

The second key to getting the most use out of a small knife lies in the blade profile. Having a working point and the longest amount of usable blade length is important. The more curviture you can pack in the same blade length, the more slicing edge you have-IE, belly. There's a line between creating the most functional edge in the same amount of space and overdoing it-some manufactured recurves add so much that it takes away from the practicality by making sharpening a pain in the butt, drastically increasing the complexity of use, etc. Usually the more belly you have, the less of a pronounced point you wind up with, but dropped and clipped points can help maximize both usable edge and working point, while centering the point along the axis of the handle for ergonomics and ease of use. Dropping or clipping the point to where it reduces most of the belly is inefficient, and alot of otherwise great knives-like Spyderco for example-drop the point too far and leave you with less working edge and don't really offer any benefit. I don't have any knives dropped past a spear point for this exact reason. The HEST has some fantastic belly, as do the Izula and most of the Bark River designs offered above.

If you can wiggle in ergonomics for blade control while reducing hand fatigue into these two points, you will have an effective little big knife. The HEST has some very slight unusable space-there's the tiny bit of pommel guard, tiny bit of integral guard and the wire breaker/fire striker at the base of the blade, though these are sacrifices of weight and overall length for better ergonomics and multipurpose functionality. The blade profile with a very efficient drop point and fantastic belly definitely help overcome this. The RAT1, otherwise one of my favorite user folders, also has a near perfect edge profile and drop point, but I find the unusable space between the cutting edge and the handle just horrendous. Not only does it increase weight and bulk, but it also reduces ergonomics and tip control.

These are just my personal opinions about knife design, they probably aren't perfect. Of course there are particular specialized designs for particular purposes, like wharncliffes, hook knives, etc- sure they have their purposes, but when talking about the most efficient small allarounder, I apply these scrutinies when purchasing my knives. *hint hint, all you knifemakers ;)
I hear you on the pocket knives. My Spyderco Military is by far the best slicer I've ever owned but dang does it have a heck of a lot of unused space. It's almost as long as my Izula closed so it actually gets less pocket time. They could easily take a few inches off that knife and still offer the same functionality.
 
I'm packing a tan Izula with a MercHarness over here in A'Stan. It rides well and I like the flatter profile...it's the knife I use the most for mundane tasks. What I typically choose backhome for a small, full handle knife is the Fallkniven WM-1...it's one of my favorites and is a hell of a slicer; perfect for small game/fish cleaning and food prep. The WM-1 is very hand-filling for me and a great small utility blade.

ROCK6
 
My four fingers will (just) get a complete perch on an EKA Nordic H8 (with uncheckered Masur birch handle). Neat little knife.
 
I've been eyeballing the Blackjack model 155 myself, anyone have feedback on this blade?
 
I think that basic Loveless DP Hunter design is among the best all time small yet full knives. Speaking of which, how do you like that blade? How's the steel quality and F&F?
 
Back
Top