Smoothing Loveless Bolts?

[reskite]

I've been working on a knife with contoured handle of Alder burl. The Loveless bolts holding the scales on bulge out a bit, disturbing the flow of the material. I was doing better keeping them flush when using my grinder, but when I went to hand sanding for final shape, the bolts, being harder than the surrounding material, stick up a bit. I have been using some hard felt sanding blocks from Brownells, but they aren't hard enough, apparently. I like the smooth transitions I get with the hard felt, but the bulgy bolts don't work for me. What do you guys do, wrap the sandpaper around a file or other steel shape?

Eventually, I'd like to be able to finish a handle entirely on machines, but am not there yet with my technique, so I always have to do some final shaping and finish by hand.

 

[sparrow75]

Yes, you need something harder than felt

 

[Jason Fry]

Yes, you need something harder than felt

Agree. I use a piece of bar stock metal, or sometimes a piece of plastic with a bit of leather glued on if I need a softer block. Even hard felt is likely too soft.

 

[FTO_dude]

I prefer a block made from micarta or g10. If the block happens to break through the paper then it wont scratch the material like a file or piece of bar will. Being lighter means you dont get as fatigued too.
When sanding over bolts use no backing at all

 

[jtdesigns]

I use a high durometer piece of rubber for sanding/shaping scales

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I have a large variety of sanding blocks. The hardwood blocks are my favorites. I don't like steel blocks, but do have some in aluminum. However, I find the hard and smooth wood works extremely well for most all hand sanding.
For getting bevels flat and smooth, cabinet grade plywood works surprisingly well. It seems to have just enough "give" but is smooth and flat. Most hobby shops sell similar high grade plywood in small pieces for model construction.