snakewood

Joined
Mar 13, 2007
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Hay all, Have a question about snakewood.I saw something 'way while back about it being hard to work and I don't remember what it was.[don't remember much of anything] If someone could point out what are the pros and cons of snakewood are I sure would appreciate it.
Jerry
 
snakewood finishes out nice but can be very difficult to work with. My experiences with it, it splits and splinters so easy that I personally don't mess with it anymore. It's too pricey to risk destroying it. Some guys like it and that's fine. I just don't have the patience for that.
 
It's great when properly stabilized. Unstabilized, I've found the stuff to crack just looking at it. Expect some losses during stabilizing - but what's still good at the end will stay that way - and is Oh So gorgeous! :thumbup:
Rob!
 
I have never considered it a candidate for stabilizing ( but I never tried either?). I use a lot of high grade snakewood ( see Knives 2006, pg 165) , and have purchased quarter logs. It works pretty easily with the right procedures.
First: Use sharp and new belts.
Second: Go slow and don't get it hot.
Third: When a crack or split appears ( and it will) use thin cyanoacrylic to seal it. Repeat until the wood will no longer wick up any resin. Then let it cure for 24 hours before sanding again. The split will be invisible.
Forth: Finish sanding by hand. Use of fine grit belts will burn the wood, and cause splits to appear - some now, some much later.
Last: Buff with a fine muslin buff and white rouge. It will give the wood a glass smooth surface.

Stacy
 
Thanks all for the input guys

Stacy, If it splits later then how can anyone sell this on a knife? Seems to me that would make for a bad rep. And I have enough for at least 10 knives.

Thanks a bunch-- Jerry

ps Could I go over the whole handle with super glue then polish? Think that would help? Just a thought.
 
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I store my snakewood for a couple years ( and it has been curing at the sawyers for maybe four or five already). That allows for enough time for most of the splits to happen. When working snakewood, there will be some hairline splits that you either discover, or open up as you remove wood. Snakewood has a lot of internal stress, and is tricky. If done right, and slowly, a finished handle will remain stable for a long time. I let the finished knife sit in the cabinet for a couple months to make sure nothing is still moving.A I said, thin cyanoacrylic does a great job of making those hairline cracks disappear.

As far as the reputation problem....snakewood already has that reputation. Few knowledgeable buyers would blame the maker if a snakewood handled knife checked later. Same goes for ivory and Gabon ebony. It is the rarity and difficulty of working it that make the handles desirable.

Snakewood is not for knives that get hard use....or ones that get a lot of wet/dry cycles (kitchen knives). It is a good wood for collectible knives and to compliment sculptured handles on art knives.

The grade varies a lot from some pretty plain stuff to wood that is incredible. The price varies on the same scale. I have paid over $1000 for a 1/2 log 3 feet long. I have also paid $50 drywall bucket full of lower grade pieces. A premium set of scales or a block can set you back $50+.

Stacy
 
No, I have been mostly in the rosewood family and no need for stablizing.I have had oak burl and maple burl done but that is it.
I have 2 pcs of tiger maple 2 x 10 x 36" that is unreal, and apro 40 lbs of walnut crotch
that I need to get stablized so maybe the sneakwood will go with it.
Do you know what is the largest pcs that they will stablize? I was thinking about cuting like 10 x10 x2" thick pcs. I have ALL the carpenter tools so riping and planeing is no problem. Just thinking about shipping & packing.


Thanks for The concern and comments stacy, it means alot.

Hellgap, you should get a kick out of this 7" blade bowie I put this s/wood on.
Will post pictures when I get finished. I made this one for me, if it cracks or breaks, i'll redo it. Jerry
 
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