sneak peek at my upcoming dao project - input requested - jian added

I like this sword, and I've been keeping an eye on the thread for a while. I practice Traditional Chinese martial arts and our schools signature weapon is the Dao, seeing as we have around ten different forms for this sword. A couple things that we look for in a good Dao are based on signature movements that are in the forms. First is the basic forward spin, or "Moulinet". Keeping the arm mostly straight out, spinning forward with the wrist. Second is the "Wrap". This itself takes some learning, but will tell you almost instantly if the blade is too heavy, as it will want to venture further from the body. Third is control in cuts, a good Dao will not need a hard swing but should not be too difficult to alter its direction at the end of the cut. This is again found in the "wrap".

Our wrap is similar to this, but his is a little sloppy. Ours also has a thrust in it, most schools don't seem to put that in their wrapping drills. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUeEC6BdIrQ

I can't wait to see it finished, and see it chop some stuff.
 
Thanks for the feedback! I also do traditional Chinese martial arts, and have noticed that a lot of people think of the light and flexible niuweidao that's commonly used for wushu, when talking about the dao. This one, I'd envisioned being more like the heavy niuweidao that Jet Li uses in the teahouse fight in the movie Fearless. Rigid, and designed for support on most moves with the other arm, unlike the lighter sword forms as in the video you posted. I've noticed that many schools teach liuyedao forms but use a niuweidao. Attacks with this blade would target thighs and wrists, and as a heavy sword, should be able to cut through light armor and otherwise function like a blunt weapon if the opponent does take it on the armor. In the modern world, of course, I expect this blade will primarily get used against wood, tatami mats, water bottles, and other things of that ilk.

I'm planning on picking up a kitchen scale so I can weigh the blade, and it weighs about the same as my folded steel liuyedao, and about the same as the Hanwei niuweidao (with the scabbard still on).
 
I hate wushu steel swords, and the "spring steel" swords that are too flexible and thin. From my understanding, Niuweidao are a later design than most forms. They have become the typical "Kung Fu" sword because of it's looks, while most Liuweidao are left in the background.

What do you practice?
 
One more experiment. This one's a jian-styled blade. Also 36" OAL, 27" blade. Two hand handle, balance point is about 2" up, and it's MUCH lighter than the other. This one's 52100, cause that's what I had on hand, and will be heat treated by Jeff Mutz at Tru Grit. Thoughts? Like it, hate it?

 
I like the lines of the first sword better. Have you thought about either going to a stick tang, or a more narrow full tang that you can slip a guard over? While I really like your work, the bolted on guards and bolsters are your weak point, and it's sooo easy to correct. All your tang has to be is a fraction smaller than your ricasso, file out your guard, slip it over the tang until it's seated, and either JB weld it on or pin it or do both.

I'm sorry I didn't answer your questions on how to do a fuller using a dremel. I guess I just missed it. Anyway, it all depends on how soft your steel is; I get my steel from Aldo, and it comes fully annealed. It's the softest steel I've ever worked with, so using a dremel works just fine. As you probably know, you can get dremel attachments in all sizes and shapes. I use a bullnose dremel grinding stone attachment, and keep my little finger on the spine as a guide. This gives me a straight line grind. It takes time, but you end up with perfect fullers.

However, your fullers look fine to me, so I guess you've found a different way to do them. I can't imagine how you acheive good control with an angle grinder, but it looks like you have. Anyway, try the dremel if you wish, perhaps on shorter blades, although I do use the dremel to make fullers on much longer blades.
 
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Neither one is going to have bolted on scales and guards. Thought I made that clear. I use primarily pinned construction (with epoxy of course). Those are just on there temporarily prior to heat treat so I can get the balance right before I finish pre-HT grinding. These are not final products, so if that's your biggest concern, the bolts aren't going to be there when I'm done.
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
Neither one is going to have bolted on scales and guards. Thought I made that clear. I use primarily pinned construction (with epoxy of course). Those are just on there temporarily prior to heat treat so I can get the balance right before I finish pre-HT grinding. These are not final products, so if that's your biggest concern, the bolts aren't going to be there when I'm done.
Click to expand...

Cool, guess I misunderstood. Looking forward to seeing the final product.
 
I do appreciate the feedback though! I used to do screws and such, and it quickly became clear that those just don't look as professional. I'd like to get the pinned guards down before I experiment with hidden tangs and such.
 
Got it back from HT yesterday. Peters did a great job. There was a tiny amount of edge warping which cleaned up fairly well with the post HT grinding, but other than that, it's great. At Dan Keffeler's suggestion, I asked them to use the protocols they use for his blades, and I'm very happy so far. I tried a light chop on my piece of plywood I use for light testing, and got about 6 inches in, with no edge ground in at all. Sadly, or happily, that's better than I get with my Hanwei viking axe.



As promised, the screws are now gone, and it's pinned and epoxied together:



I really like this angle for shots. Makes the blade look even more epic, although, wow, 3V is insanely obnoxious to hand sand. I'm gonna be at this for the next year!


Just enough space for a two hand grip for me. Weighted well enough for use in one:


Comparison with a Hanwei Dao for size. Blade length is the same, but it's got enough space for two hands, or a hand and a half for those with larger hands.


It's gonna be a while before this one gets fully completed, but I figured I'd throw up some more progress pics.
 
looks sweet! I'm working on a 3v camp knife now and you aren't kidding that stuff is murder to sand down once treated . . . and you have 20 more inches of blade than I do!
 
Both look great, but I really like the jian. I like how the guard evokes the Han style. Don't make the handle round like a Han though, edge alignment is a pain with round handles.
 
A few more progress pics. I still have to figure out how I want to do the scabbard, but the sword itself is getting fairly close to completion. Again, CPM 3V. Dragon and phoenix hand-drawn and etched into the blade, and I also experimented with some hand-engraving on the brass fittings. Stabilized oregon maple burl from Burl Source for the handles scales. Weight is under 3 pounds, POB about 4" up from the guard.





 
I wish I had more to contribute, but I just don't have the knowledge. It was fascinating reading this thread though and learning about the processes involved in sword making. I also really enjoyed seeing the project in the different stages of its progression. I think it's gorgeous, great work.
 
I'm no expert on sword making, but I do appreciate your comments. This one is actually my first full length sword, and it was a learning experience for me in many, many ways. I'm glad you enjoyed the thread. If you like threads like this, there are a ton of really epic WIP threads on here. Bruce Bump, NickWheeler, and Claudio-CAS probably have the lock on my favorites to date. If I had to change something, I'd think the etch is a little busy, all things considered. A simpler design might be better aesthetically for my preferences, although I'm happy with how well it turned out, considering how challenging it was to etch a blade that big in the first place.
 
CF, you did a great job on this one. I love the shape and design on the blade. The etchings aren't to my taste, but then, i prefer simplicity. For me, i'd have preferred just having the yin yang on the guard and nothing else.

keep it up man. You've come a long way.

I must admit though that i still think the kukri you made me is your best to date. I wish i had gotten you to make me a leather sheath for it. I'm regretting that now.
 
Well, send her back and I'll make one for you then, Chris. Glad you like it. I personally prefer my own design khukuri-like object though :D :


I'm working on 3 smaller versions of this for sale which will remain plain unless requested otherwise by the customer.
 
Been following this thread and digging your tactical take on Chinese swords as there aren't many guys doing em. Just wondering if you could email me as
I have some questions on your swords. Thanks.
 
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