SNG Pivot won't unscrew, stuck?????

LOL.. but will it pop back in and be functional.

I have done the lockbar many times... and it is not that hard. Just bend it a tad until it locks strong again.. and that is it. It is about impossible to bend it at an akward angle to where it won't engage properly.

The odd thing is that it has the hinderer lock stop on it... so the previous owner could not have over extended it unless he was actually trying hard as hell to over extend it. So it came from the factory like this. I even asked him and he confirmed that it was like that when he got it from the factory.

I love the way the SNG feels in the hand and I love the looks of it, but the up and down wobble, while not bad, gets on my nerves. It is perfectly centered though, lol. My SMF was not perfectly centered and had just a small, tiny bit of side to side play, but the lock bar locked tight.. If I could just bend the lock bar a little more it would be incredible!!
 
Color me loose with cash, but I bought one of the "spanners" for around $30 and my SnG came apart with no troubles. $30 isn't cheap, but it's a lot easier than making one that breaks or trying heat, solvents, physical shock, etc.?
 
lol... I contacted a guy that makes those... I figured I would get one to apply some serious tourque without worrying about the prongs breaking. Plus it would cost about that much to send it to strider anyways.
 
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Those dirty rat b##tards at Strider must buy their (red) Loc-Tite by the barrel.

I have a pivot tool. Even so, my pivot is no longer an unscarred pristine black anymore. It bears the marks of 2500ft lbs of pressure from loosening the damn thing. Once I got it off I made sure I cleaned the threads off really good. Now it comes apart much easier. The whole knife is all scratched up anyway, so the pivot looks just fine. I use my knives instead of just playing with them.

Oh yeah, it doesn't have any play in it at all now.
 
Damn... did you apply any heat? Did you think you were gonna break the knife while taking it apart... lol.

Wish the guy with the tool would hurry up and contact me because I want to get this blade play out as soon as possible, functions fine, just annoying. What's the best way to get the loc tite off the threads once it is out?

Can you guys PM me some links of where to purchase the tool at?
 
I think it's ok to post names and links in the clear here - mine, which was about $30 and is highly satisfactory, is from PSD.
 
JNewell said:
I think it's ok to post names and links in the clear here - mine, which was about $30 and is highly satisfactory, is from PSD.
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Ya.. that is the guy I sent an email too... probably busy at the moment. They look like they would do the job perfectly.
 
Incahiker said:
Ya.. that is the guy I sent an email too... probably busy at the moment. They look like they would do the job perfectly.
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It worked perfectly, no slips, great fit. The $ question is up to the individual but I can vouch for the quality and utility of this tool if you decide to spend the money.
 
EricV said:
I'm pretty sure you won't be able to hurt the g10 or temper by boiling it, as the water will not get hot enough due to it vaporizing at a certain temp. (too long since chem class for me to remember) Don't leave it in there for an hour, maybe just five minutes then try.

I would make a tool out of a 1/4" drive socket, as it lets you put down a decent amount of torque without being unholy abusive. Then put the allen key in a vice, pivot onto the allen key and try with the wrench.

But really it seems like the knife should just go back to strider, messing with lockbars tends to piss off most manufactures in the unlikely event something does go wrong.
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+1 for boiling, and +1 for sending it back. If you're taking it apart to fix something stop and send it back. Better to have them do it then you.
 
Josh K said:
+1 for boiling, and +1 for sending it back. If you're taking it apart to fix something stop and send it back. Better to have them do it then you.
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The lockbar is already messed up.. .I'm not going to tear it off, the only thing that can happen is to make it better. But I do understand what you guys are saying.. and if the wait wasn't so long (from what I understand) I wouldn't mind sending it in. But I work on my own guns, and a lot of other mechanical stuff... slightly bending a lockbar to have more tension... is ... nothing really.
 
Incahiker said:
The lockbar is already messed up.. .I'm not going to tear it off, the only thing that can happen is to make it better. But I do understand what you guys are saying.. and if the wait wasn't so long (from what I understand) I wouldn't mind sending it in. But I work on my own guns, and a lot of other mechanical stuff... slightly bending a lockbar to have more tension... is ... nothing really.
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I'll say the same thing say when people recommend taking their Sebenza apart and rebending the lock bar. Don't.

It should be "nothing" but it rarely is. Of course, it's your knife you do what you want but making that kind of self adjustment should not, in my opinion, be done yourself.
 
Incahiker said:
The lockbar is already messed up.. .I'm not going to tear it off, the only thing that can happen is to make it better. But I do understand what you guys are saying.. and if the wait wasn't so long (from what I understand) I wouldn't mind sending it in. But I work on my own guns, and a lot of other mechanical stuff... slightly bending a lockbar to have more tension... is ... nothing really.
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I could be wrong :D but I really disagree about bending lockbars. I wouldn't rechamber a rifle with a Dremel or rebuild a diff without dial indicators, etc. I have had enough trouble (and a few failures) keeping all my fingers attached. Lockbar? If it were my knife and my fingers, I'd send it in without further debate! :D YMMV and YFMV ;)
 
Yeah, in the end it is best to just send it in and they'll do it for you. They made the folder so they are the best for fixing it.

Bending lockbars is hit or miss. If too much it'll increase travel due to increase in wear of the lockbar, then to reduce the bend will be hit or miss again. Too many misses then you are just going to ruin the lock by fatiguing the titanium at the relief zone.

Good luck.
 
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