Sniper Blade Works - Mini LPC

nozh2002

BANNED
Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Messages
5,736
This is my second English full review - please, have a look http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/SniperBladeWorks-MiniLPC.html

About month ago I saw this clip on YouTube by BLUNTRUTH4U (who has tons of other amazing videos there as well)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSrlvqrZQKY

This is honest and fair presentation of what 1095 may be capable of. 1095 steel is not one of the popular steel on BladeForums - it is simple old cheap carbon steel, unlike modern expensive high alloy super steels. Manufacturers making knives out of it for generations and so it is I guess it is considered as kind of boring old news. And as many other who got their knife education from Blade Forums, I considered this steel as something low, something for cheap knives which for sure can not compete with whatever is everybody promoting now...

Sniper-LPC-01.jpg


And so this video was kind of an eye opening experience. This video without any doubt show how 4 by 4 pine was cut through and then same knife shave clean. All process is on tape, No interruptions, knife is always seen - very good done video, clear evidence of what 1095 is capable of. This make me to start thinking about this steel. I was thinking to get same knife, but I do not like skeleton construction. Also I was thinking about top grade heat treatment. Also I had some unsuccessful attempts to get second knife from Yuna and finally give it up. So I was looking for custom folder Ti+G10 frame lock (simple and affordable) and I was looking for 1095 steel too. So when I checked TAD Gear (I am doing this on a daily basis as well as some other sites) and see new manufacturer there Sniper Blade Works all this desires found just perfect match!

Sniper-LPC-02.jpg


They have two models LPC and Mini LPC in tan and green. With titanium and G10 scales and Mini LPC had 1095 steel blade, not just 1095 but differentially tempered, with hamon - area of higher hardness around edge. It is debatable, does it make sense or not on 3 1/2" blade or it needed only for long swords - for me it is sign of highly skilled blade smith. So this is like a signature, meaning that whoever did this blade skilled enough to use this technic on the blade. And he is - Jody Muller blade smith and member of ABS, so this make me confident that I will have best 1095 I can find. Here you may see hamon best, hamon itself, shadow of hamon... - everything indicate that this is done properly:

Sniper-LPC-03.jpg


But when I convince myself and decide to make an order - I found that those knifes already sold out at TAD Gear! Well, I come to Google for help. And Google did help as usual! I found this page Sniper Blade Works...

http://www.sniperbladeworks.com/

I talk to both Jody and Lance, told them what I am looking for. And in less then a month have this beauty done for me! Jody sent me pictures of it just to verify that everything is like I want - everything was just perfect and in few days I have it in my collection! It was extremely quick, for knife made by my specification, I was really impressed. With Yuna it took more then 6 month for first knife and for Dozier it take 9 months or something like this. But with Sniper Blade Works it take almost no time.

Sniper-LPC-04.jpg


Knife has big blade, wide and longer then you may expect with this handle. This is my favorite blade shape - being reasonable short it still strongalso with almost full flat grind it make it excellent slicer. It is also much easier to use it for digging (in dirt or in caned beef as well... this feature turns out to be major plus for Russian specnaz - see RosArms Utes review reprinted in Tactical knives July 2008 from my website). Blade is polished by hand and etched a little bit. This polish prevent it from rust. Blade made out of good old 1095 carbon steel but properly heat treated and with hamon - as a signature of skilled blade smith. blade has solid choil and ricasso with Sniper Blade Works label. It has clip point shape, edge is not very curved - I would add - very easy to sharpen. It has thumb studs on both sides and no flipper - I think it is possible to made flipperthere in theory.

length 3 1/2"
width 1 7/16"
thickness 5/32"
weight 4.81 oz

Sniper-LPC-08.jpg


Handle is - lock side titanium and other side only G10 (no metal liner), same as it was for early Military. It has long titanium spacer which holds all handle construction with four screws. Handle is pretty thin and this is also sign of high craftsmanship - hole for blade is pretty thin and there is not room for it to be out of center, but it fits just perfectly, right in the middle, I would say mathematically right in the middle - Jody was jeweler and watch maker for decades, so no wonder that knife's mechanics is so precise. I choose orange handle - hard to miss color. Some prefers only black, but I am not in "assassin guild". It is widely used for other tool like screwdrivers etc, because it is just much easy to find bright tool in the grass or in the dirt or it the snow, then black.

Sniper-LPC-07.jpg


Shape of the handle is for the handle is pretty comfortable. I found that it does not matter too much for most use, for light cuts arm will hold any shape somehow - we have five fingers, after all, with one opposite, this is what differ us from other animals. But for power cuts, where handle need to project a lot of force to cutting edge - handle geometry is extremely important! At first it should be safe and prevent hand from slipping into edge, when power is involved it is harder to control knife, time is faster and cut may be very dangerous. Second it should be comfortable, other wise hand will be hurt and this also limit freedom of use, because I have to use knife with additional caution. For this knife I may identify two major power grips. One is "tactical" with thumb on the handle spine and pointing finger in the lock grove. Second is "working" with pointing finger on choil. Both grips are pretty safe and comfortable - most of handle spine is covered by spacer. For this two grips handle is anatomical and fits palm very well. I think this is what Lance brought into this company - deep, hands on knowledge of "tactical" world.

Sniper-LPC-06.jpg


Frame lock is solid and getting stronger over use. After I cut 1/2" manila rope 40 times it take some effort to unlock it. Access to lock it good - had no problem with it. There is not any stopper for lock, except may be titanium clip, which is right where I like it to be. However it is only one position possible. Handle has lanyard hole - I am going to tie proper lanyard to it. Handle titanium is processed somehow, but I do not know was it bead blasted or this is something different. Whatever it is - I like it. Handle is smooth - I ask for it intentionaly, I like smooth surface and prefer anatomical geometry then rough surface for handle.

Sniper-LPC-05.jpg


With all those nice features, however, my main reason to have this knife was exceptional cutting performance demonstrated so colorfully by BLUNTRUTH4U on his video. I wish to be as strong as he is to cut through 4" x 4" pine and then shave my arm... But I have my own well established method - manila rope cutting and thread statistical sharpness test. This is also gave me some idea how this steel may fit into rating for other steel I already have. I decided to change my method a bit, do less sharpness tests then usual, but increase final number of cuts to 400 (twice). Result I got from 1095 steel Mini LPC knife by Sniper Blade Works was amaizing!

Cuts Oz.
000 - 0.5
001 - 2.0
010 - 3.5
050 - 5.0
100 - 4.5
200 - 4.0
400 - 4.0

Check for yourself:

Cut ZDP SDV M-2 D-2 S30 AU8 O31 SG2 FD2 3G SRS SwR R3V INF RUS 10V dD2 Boo 420 110 B42 S30 154 kD2 ZDP M-4 Slv 1095
000 010 015 015 020 015 015 020 020 015 020 020 020 020 020 020 020 015 020 015 020 015 020 015 015 010 015 015 005
001 015 030 035 030 025 040 030 035 030 035 035 030 030 035 045 020 020 030 030 030 025 030 020 025 015 025 030 020
010 040 060 045 050 050 070 050 065 065 065 050 045 045 050 070 035 025 060 055 045 040 040 035 035 030 035 045 035
040 055 085 070 090 065 090 065 085 080 095 060 050 060 070 090 045 040 075 065 060 050 050 050 045 040 045 050 ...
050 ........................................................................................................... 050
060 055 095 075 085 070 095 075 085 085 080 065 040 070 070 095 050 040 085 080 060 045 060 050 045 050 060 050 ...
100 055 100 095 100 070 095 085 100 080 105 070 045 075 080 100 055 040 075 070 060 060 060 050 050 050 060 060 045
200 080 105 080 120 075 110 095 110 085 100 070 055 070 075 100 065 040 085 080 055 055 065 060 055 050 055 050 040
400 ........................................................................................................... 040

Result is best among 28 knives with different steels, only Dozier has same results, but I did not tested it up to 400 cuts! This is what I was looking for after I saw that video - and I found it! I am planing to repeat this test at least two times, to see how stable results will be, but even now it is clear that this is best my performer at least best performing folder!

This is comparison shot with well known Spuderco Military (old one which also has one side of the handle G10 only):

Sniper-LPC-09.jpg


And this is another folder with same design style (Ti+G10 introduced by Strider if I am not mistaken) - for both I choose orange G-10 on handle:

Sniper-LPC-10.jpg


Thanks, Vassili.
 
Last edited:
Beautiful knife nozh and nice review. It's nice to see more modern folders with 1095
 
I first discovered Sniper Blade Works on another forum and was immediately impressed, and no, a hammon line doesnt just belong on swords. Even my Bub Worrell Peanut has one.

I tend to like simple black more than that bright orange, even though I am not a member of assassins guild, though it does sound kind of cool. :)

You may be right about Strider being the first to use an all G10 side on a folder, but I wonder, anyone know for sure? Curious.

Good review!
 
Interesting, good review.

It appears from your testing that the 1095 was able to achieve a sharper edge than any of the other steels. What is the HRC for the edge of that knife?
 
I never understood how people could underestimate 1095. with the right heat treat its a great steel, as anyone who has owned a knife from RAT Cutlery can testify :thumbup:
 
Interesting, good review.

It appears from your testing that the 1095 was able to achieve a sharper edge than any of the other steels. What is the HRC for the edge of that knife?

Jody told me that it is 58HRC on the edge and 56HRC on the spine. Which is quite amaizing, because it outperforms 65HRC ZDP-189 as well as any other super steels.

Initial sharpnes may be higher just because I better learn how to sharpen - it is about year from time I started last testing session (looks like it is seasonal activity for me, it getting colder and I am doing testing again). From other hand this is simple carbon steel so better sharpness is expected, I guess, but it is anyway hair whittling sharpness for all of them and difference is not too practical.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Jody told me that it is 58HRC on the edge and 56HRC on the spine.

Wow! I assumed it would have had to have been in the 60's. I usually touch up my Izula every night with 8 or 10 strokes on an ultra-fine ceramic, so I don't really have a good sense of its edge retention capabilities.
 
I never understood how people could underestimate 1095. with the right heat treat its a great steel, as anyone who has owned a knife from RAT Cutlery can testify :thumbup:

Maybe because 1095 steel is good for railroads and not for a knives?! It's tough all right, but rusts horribly, on 57 Hrc is too hard to resharpen and looses all most instantly fine edge. RAT cutlery presents in commercial how knife penetrates crocodile's neck but not how cuts everyday things. This is very tough yet very poor cutting steel. Still, Ka bar's 1095 is somehow better. Excellent for military ( read " cheap " ) knives and combat blades, much better choice than 440 A ( this is real bottom ).
 
Maybe because 1095 steel is good for railroads and not for a knives?! It's tough all right, but rusts horribly, on 57 Hrc is too hard to resharpen and looses all most instantly fine edge. RAT cutlery presents in commercial how knife penetrates crocodile's neck but not how cuts everyday things. This is very tough yet very poor cutting steel. Still, Ka bar's 1095 is somehow better. Excellent for military ( read " cheap " ) knives and combat blades, much better choice than 440 A ( this is real bottom ).

LOL :D

Don't feed the troll folks, it just derails the thread and pleasures the troll.
 
Here we go again... :rolleyes:

Congrats on the new knife nozh! Looks like a tough one!
 
This knife shows superior edge holding for fine edge. I sharpened it to hair whittling level and then cut 400 times 1/2" manila rope - results is really amaizing - 4 oz on statistic cotton thread cutting test. Most of the steels fall far behind. You may see this from the table.

I value most ability to hold fine edge and among all steels I have (and I have most used for knives) this knife best in fine edge holding. I expect it to be tough as well, but I did not tested it for toughness.

However I have to stress out that this 1095 blade made by American Bladesmith Society member Jody Muller, I did not really tested any other 1095 so far.

Meanwhile I am finishing second test run, so far results are:

cut oz.
000 - 05 05
001 - 20 25
010 - 35 35
050 - 50 40
100 - 45 40
200 - 40 45
400 - 40 ...

As you may see they are not very different.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I had a feeling yesterday that this thread would attract Cabala. :rolleyes:
 
Vassili, is that chart in chronological order of the knives you tested? these are the 200 cut measurements

nozh.png
 
Last edited:
Vassili, is that chart in chronological order of the knives you tested? these are the 200 cut measurements

nozh.png

I am not quite understand what chart are you talking about. Picture you posted I never saw before, do not know it's origin.

I posted all results here:

http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/Manila-Rope-Results.html

I had sometime ago in this subforum discussion about my testing as well.

In this review I add new results to old table removing some rows, because now I reduce number of sharpness tests. Columns in the table are in chronological order.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I made that, it shows that your results are improving over time. Your required force at 200 cuts is steadily decreasing and deviating less the more knives you test. I just thought it was interesting. It doesn't seem that there is a particular trend in the steels themselves, alloying, hardness, etc, so some other factor may be the cause.

Edit - the chart I mentioned is the one in the first post, the list of blade steels and force measurements, with the 1095 being the only one with 400 cuts
 
Last edited:
Back
Top