Sniper Blade Works - Mini LPC

hardheart said:
so happy that I could amuse you
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:D:thumbup:

My amusement was directed towards the graph, but I was amused that you took the trouble to chart his data. Kinda looks like a "shotgun pattern" doesn't it? I wonder what the "other factor" causing the deviation in Nozh's testing might be?
 
hardheart said:
I made that, it shows that your results are improving over time. Your required force at 200 cuts is steadily decreasing and deviating less the more knives you test. I just thought it was interesting. It doesn't seem that there is a particular trend in the steels themselves, alloying, hardness, etc, so some other factor may be the cause.

Edit - the chart I mentioned is the one in the first post, the list of blade steels and force measurements, with the 1095 being the only one with 400 cuts
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I see you point - indeed I got better skill in testing over time. This is expected and I first noticed this and did retesting for ZDP-189 for that reason. Also I inprove testing itself - now I use base with spring which provides better tension on threaed, as well as I tune up some other things - but I do not think this influence is really critical.

Even from you graph it is clear how big difference between low and high even for close in time results. I do not think that approximation you did really applicable in this case with such volatility for close points.

Can you just out of curiosity draw same graph but for 0 cuts - if you are saying that my sharpness measurement changed in time - 0 cut graph should looks similar, right?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Actually can you move this discussion about test itself to my test thread, somewhere in this subforum.

I do not really like to change subject from this beautiful knife to some test specific details etc...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
moonwilson said:
Kinda looks like a "shotgun pattern" doesn't it? I wonder what the "other factor" causing the deviation in Nozh's testing might be?
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Not really, that's why I plotted it. Just looking at the chart, you can see a decrease in force at 200 cuts as you move left to right, not very shotgun like in the general trend. Especially at the last 9 tests, look how close to the red line they are. Much less scatter, which might mean something. I don't know. I won't go further in this thread, but as Vassili requested, will continue in the other thread.
 
I love the looks of the Mini LPC. Seems like a great EDC knife. I like the choil for gripping the folder. BTW Vassili do you know what LPC stands for? Good luck with the new knife. Maybe you can do a follow up review after you used the folder a few months.:thumbup:
 
ROBB said:
I love the looks of the Mini LPC. Seems like a great EDC knife. I like the choil for gripping the folder. BTW Vassili do you know what LPC stands for? Good luck with the new knife. Maybe you can do a follow up review after you used the folder a few months.:thumbup:
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For now, with testing I am doing, I did use it way over what average use would be for years... I cut 1/2" manila rope 800 times and will do 400 more for third test run.

So far it holds this load pretty well - not only in terms of sharpness, see second run results:

Cuts Oz.
000 - 0.5 0.5
001 - 2.0 2.5
010 - 3.5 3.5
050 - 5.0 4.0
100 - 4.5 4.0
200 - 4.0 4.5
400 - 4.0 4.0

...but mechanics as well - no blade play or any of this kind of things. It is easy to resharpen too (well it did not dull too mach on the first place). I am careful to keep corrosion away and dry it well after washing and so far does not have any problems of this nature - but it is well polished.

After I finish my testing - I like to try what BLUNTRUTH4U did.

I'll keep posting here for any news.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I am glad the knife is performing well for you, LPC is just a model name, Lances personal carry.
Thank you for the great review and kind words.
 
Vassili, thank you again for your work. It is greatly appreciated.

Just an idea but I'd be mighty interested in pictures of the edge after extensive cutting (like 400). Maybe a nice USB microscope with high magnification could bring additional value to your results? Like we might see how the edge is wearing/deforming. Remember Knarfeng's visual method of inspecting edges after use?
 
mullerforge said:
I am glad the knife is performing well for you, LPC is just a model name, Lances personal carry.
Thank you for the great review and kind words.
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Thank you and Lance for great knife!

I really enjoying having it.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
vassili i do'nt know how you get the time & energy but let me say i really appreciate your experiments. phillip [cotdt] has been doing some amazing work with 1095 also. hopefully the heat treat on 1095 wo'nt be too exotic. it would be a wonderful thing to be able to have knives with this performance for 60 to 90$.
 
Why does a small blade in a folder need a differential heat treatment?
 
brownshoe said:
Why does a small blade in a folder need a differential heat treatment?
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Let me quote myself...

nozh2002 said:
...It is debatable, does it make sense or not on 3 1/2" blade or it needed only for long swords - for me it is sign of highly skilled blade smith. So this is like a signature, meaning that whoever did this blade skilled enough to use this technic on the blade. And he is - Jody Muller blade smith and member of ABS, so this make me confident that I will have best 1095 I can find. Here you may see hamon best, hamon itself, shadow of hamon... - everything indicate that this is done properly:

Sniper-LPC-03.jpg

...
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Thanks, Vassili.
 
I read the missive earlier, but it doesn't really explain why. A hamon is not a sign of a skilled blacksmith...a differential heat treat that does not ruin performance is the sign of a skilled blacksmith. I gather from your perspective a hamon on a medium size pocket knife boils down to cachet. That's OK.

I've met Jodie Muller and have one of his knives. Before his work became highly embellished, it was very functional. His damascus both looked good and cuts well. My 1095/L6 Muller damascus blade is very hard, not differentially heat treated, and has no chipping problems. Their website doesn't give any information as to the Why of a differential heat treat on this type of blade. Did you get any information from the makers?
 
brownshoe said:
I read the missive earlier, but it doesn't really explain why. A hamon is not a sign of a skilled blacksmith...a differential heat treat that does not ruin performance is the sign of a skilled blacksmith. I gather from your perspective a hamon on a medium size pocket knife boils down to cachet. That's OK.

I've met Jodie Muller and have one of his knives. Before his work became highly embellished, it was very functional. His damascus both looked good and cuts well. My 1095/L6 Muller damascus blade is very hard, not differentially heat treated, and has no chipping problems. Their website doesn't give any information as to the Why of a differential heat treat on this type of blade. Did you get any information from the makers?
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Why hamon is no sign of a skilled bladesmith? Japanese first looks at hamon to value quality of Japanese swords. Of course differently looking part of the blade which many called hamon - like core of laminated blades or some etched areas or specially polished areas, does not mean anything. Unfortunately there is a lot of imitations and misrepresentation here as well as many "experts" who base their expertize on that misrepresentation.

But to me hamon (real one with shadow etc) as I sad is signature of skilled bladesmith and hand crafted blade. On that knife I finally was able to see and learn what I read about hamon, about shadow (Utsury) and how to read it to recognize quality.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
it does take a fair bit of skill to get the clay thickness, distance to the edge, austenizing temp, soak time, and quench rate down to produce a proper hamon, especially with a noticeable transition zone.

It serves no functional purpose on a small knife. I also think it is currently a fix for a problem that does not exist in any knife, we have modern alloys with tight composition that offer great strength and toughness with full Q&T. I still love the aesthetic, kind of like how pattern-welded steel offers nothing but good looks.
 
Nozh , thanks for sharing..... That is a great looking knife , looks very comfortable.

Personally I like 1095 :)

Tostig
 
1095 is not underestimated on Bladeforums.It seems that most of us like it,quite well.By the way,that's a nice knife.
 
Per your question:

"Why hamon is no sign of a skilled bladesmith?"

I totally agree to get a hamon you need to be practiced at it, but you do not even need to be a smith to produce a hamon. The presence of a hamon that truly improves the blade performance is the sign of a skilled heat treater. The blade could be done by stock removal not forged by a smith.

IMHO, the presence of a hamon in and of itself is not a sign of quality. Sometimes the hamons are not very pretty and actually detract from the overall asthetics of the knife.
 
brownshoe said:
Per your question:

"Why hamon is no sign of a skilled bladesmith?"

I totally agree to get a hamon you need to be practiced at it, but you do not even need to be a smith to produce a hamon. The presence of a hamon that truly improves the blade performance is the sign of a skilled heat treater. The blade could be done by stock removal not forged by a smith.

IMHO, the presence of a hamon in and of itself is not a sign of quality. Sometimes the hamons are not very pretty and actually detract from the overall asthetics of the knife.
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You are precisely correct smith and heat-treater is different.
You are precisely correct blade can be done by stock removal.
You are precisely correct some people look how hamon "pretty" instead of value real thing.

IMHO hamon I saw on this blade is additional sign of quality and skilled bladesmith (as I already know - Jody is member of ABS). And my expectation was correct - this blade performs exceptionally well.

Please, correct me if I am not mathematically precise in my statements. I will correct it to your taste.

Regards, Vassili.
 
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