So, how do you folksy types sharpen your knives?

[Modoc ED]

I prefer Norton and India stones, especially for 1095, 01 tool steel, etc.,

But I also use diamond stones, hones, etc. for all types of steel.

 

[joshf128]

Lansky turnbox for me. I also have some stones and a strop that I primarily use for maintaining straight razors but haven't gotten into free hand sharpening for knives yet. Razors are essentially their own guided system since you rest the spine on the stone for each pass.

 

[Modoc ED]

Yep, the Lansky Turn Box is a very good sharpening system. Here is my Lansky 4-rod Turn Box.

 

[rma100]

I always pictured you as a "folksy type" Ed! I use traditional Arkansas Stones most of the time, and the Turn Box for quickies. I also use a Lansky System for knives with no edge at all.

 

[Modoc ED]

I like Arkansas stones too. There's one in the first photo above.

You know you're getting old/folksy when you start associating "quickies" with knife sharpening!!!!

 

[Gevonovich]

I like Arkansas stones too. There's one in the first photo above.

You know you're getting old/folksy when you start associating "quickies" with knife sharpening!!!!

This is a family forum but to see Ed crack a good joke....priceless:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Modoc ED]

This is a family forum but to see Ed crack a good joke....priceless:thumbup::thumbup:

Actually, there's nothing out of line there but should a youngster ask you what a quickie is, everyone knows it is the express bus downtown.

 

[Peregrin]

Actually, there's nothing out of line there but should a youngster ask you what a quickie is, everyone knows it is the express bus downtown.

👍 That works.

 

[singin50]

I have used many different methods over the years but find the diamond stones work best for me. Also have a DMT guided system that works really well. I have used the car window method, but it requires practice.

 

[Buzzbait]

Call me a rat, but I prefer to use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for reprofiling and general sharpening. I have lots of bench stones, and do okay with them, but the accuracy of the Sharpmaker and the quality of the rods just makes everything easier. No accidental blade scratches either.

But truth be told, I don't do a ton of sharpening these days. I'm mostly carrying GEC knives with 1095 carbon steel. A few passes on a homemade leather strop always seems to do the trick. The strop is loaded with BRKT green compound. I've been carrying my Soda Scout since it first shipped back in late July/early August, and haven't taken a stone to it since I created the initial profile at a 30 degree inclusive angle. And I use that knife A LOT every day, and it is always scary scalpel sharp. GEC's 1095 just makes it all easy, since it takes to a strop so incredibly well. The steel is hard enough not to get a rolled edge, but tough enough not to get chips. So all you have to worry about is a bit of edge wear, which an abrasive strop is more than able to contend with.

I personally find most manufacturer's blades to be far too soft for my liking, so edge roll is a huge factor. You're always sharpening to get rid of the roll, drastically shortening the efficiency and life of the blade. It's almost worth spending some money on a very good quality flat honing steel, just to deal with all of the edge roll, within removing the actually blade material. This is not so with my current GEC's in 1095. The steel is nice and hard. I'd guess a few points higher on the Rockwell scale than most knife blades out there.

I think that most manufacturers go softer on their steel to make it easier for the average guy to resharpen the knife. Sharpening very hard stainless steel can be challenge that most folks are not up to, and can also create chipping issues. GEC is smart in that they use a tough steel and make it very hard. It's still pretty easy to work with, since 1095 isn't the most abrasion resistant steel around, but it avoids the chipping and rolling pitfalls that are usually encountered with other brands.

 

[major_works]

Yep, the Lansky Turn Box is a very good sharpening system. Here is my Lansky 4-rod Turn Box.

I have a Lansky turnbox as well, but I've never been able to get a blade really sharp with it. I am new to sharpening so perhaps my technique is lacking. I follow the directions as best I can, I've watched a few videos, but still I find my results less than thrilling. Could you possible share a little about how you use it? Maybe I'm expecting too much?

 

[22-rimfire]

Those V sharpeners are handy for touch ups. Mine is old.... sold by the Cutlery Store years ago when they were still in business. I don't get "really sharp" either, but I seldom need really sharp.

 

[davek14]

. Once the new bevels are set though, I immediately fall back on the means as mentioned above for refining and maintaining edges.


David

Read with interest, as usual.

The steel is hard enough not to get a rolled edge, but tough enough not to get chips. So all you have to worry about is a bit of edge wear, which an abrasive strop is more than able to contend with.

I personally find most manufacturer's blades to be far too soft for my liking, so edge roll is a huge factor....
It's almost worth spending some money on a very good quality flat honing steel, just to deal with all of the edge roll, within removing the actually blade material.

I use a steel on many of my slipjoints. I have a number of smooth carbide rods which were discarded at my work which work well, or I just use a vintage, smooth knife steel.

Hey, that's folksy!

 

[T. Erdelyi]

Free hand on various stones and hones depending on steel. I've got hundreds invested in stones and systems, other than a 2"X72" belt grinder the best system I've used is the edgepro but again like with any other system out there I find myself gravitating towards an EZ Lap for 80% of my sharpening. Actually I feel most folks over sharpen anyway. Most folks sharpen when a sitting stroping is more than sufficient to restore an edge.

 

[pinnah]

It is helpful indeed. Lately I've been reprofiling the blade on my CSC lockback (in D2) and considering my current sharpening skills I don't think I would have been able to do it just freehanding. Also, the clamp is helping me achieve a muscle memory on stones. I noticed that I tend to keep a more stable angle when I sharpen totally freehand as well.
Now I "need" a Norton India or Arkansas stone for 1095 and such (diamond stones are a bit too aggressive for my skills to work on such steels), and sooner or later I will be able to do everything freehand. Anyway, clamp or not, I've come to enjoy and deepend the relationship between myself, my knives, and my stones, and I don't regret climbing the learning curve (and not going for a more "hi-tech" system

Fausto

Fausto, this was my experience as well. The Lansky system gave me a feel for the stones on the edge. I still use it for reprofiling but maintain my edges with a small DMT credit card stone. I never would have cracked the code for freehand without the Lansky.

 

[Vinifera]

I personally find most manufacturer's blades to be far too soft for my liking, so edge roll is a huge factor. You're always sharpening to get rid of the roll, drastically shortening the efficiency and life of the blade. It's almost worth spending some money on a very good quality flat honing steel, just to deal with all of the edge roll, within removing the actually blade material. This is not so with my current GEC's in 1095. The steel is nice and hard. I'd guess a few points higher on the Rockwell scale than most knife blades out there.

I use a steel on many of my slipjoints. I have a number of smooth carbide rods which were discarded at my work which work well, or I just use a vintage, smooth knife steel.

I couldn't agree with you guys more. I use a F. Dick Packing House Smooth Steel on all my carbon steel knives. A few swipes and all is good again without having to use the Sharpmaker or stones that often.