So im tryin to make a bowie and have some questions...

H

hodgescl

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Oct 8, 2009
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so im about to start on a fairly large bowie, im goin to start with .25" 1095 barstock... im lookin to make a 9-12 inch blade but i dont want it to be incredibly incredibly front heavy.

do any of yall know how/where the blade should be tapered/thicker. im planing on having the bevel go at least to the centerline.

im just curious if there are any tricks to ballancing a large blade like this.
 
A full-flat grind would be my choice for a knife this size from 1/4" stock. IMO this usually gives the best mix of weight distribution and edge geometry if you are using thicker stock.
 
In addition to the full flat grind I would recommend a distal taper. This does a lot for balancing the knife.
 
A C Richards said:
In addition to the full flat grind I would recommend a distal taper. This does a lot for balancing the knife.
Click to expand...

Yup, a full distal taper is the "cat's-meow". Not the easiest thing to accomplish, but if you can do it and keep everything straight, you won't regret it.

Robert
 
The thicker the spine and the longer the blade, the more necessary the full distal taper along with a high grind line. These two features of a big blade, will move the weight back into the hand where it belongs.

Fred
 
where should this distal taper begin? im planning on fitting a guard over the tang so i would assume right in front of the guard, but would it better balance the knife to start from the but of the tang.
 
It should begin about where your bevel starts if you want a full distal taper. When I do a full flat grind the blade usually comes out with a distal taper without even trying to make one. Hope this helps.
 
If you do a full flat grind (the bevel ground all the way to the spine), and grind the edge to a consistent thickness, the distal taper will be determined by the profile of the blade, it will begin where the blade begins to taper in width.
IMO weight at the guard area is dead weight and should be kept to a minimum. Again, IMO, if you have to adjust with a heavy guard or pommel you haven't designed the knife correctly to begin with.
 
im planning on using scrap from the blade stock for the guard and possibly thinning that out or maybe some fancy filing to cut that weight, i just wanted to know where the guard would pull the ballance.
 
The guard area is relatively neutral as far as weight is concerned
(depending on your idea of balance, which varies a great deal). Extra weight here does little or nothing for the performance of the knife, just makes it heavier. In a very large knife suitible for chopping duties the guard weight could possibly be tuned to minimize vibration to the hand but for most knives this is a non-issue.
 
...did not know that.

thanks for all the info folks, any more thoughts on this are welcome

-Hodges
 
+1 for the distal taper. Also with a 12" blade a frame handle desig can be tuned to make the knife feel right.
Mace
 
i thought of that, but i dont have those kind of tools. just belt grinder, files and a can of brasso...
 
Hodg,
You should fill out your profile more...there might be someone near you that can help you along a little.
Mace
 
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