so it showed up

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Apr 25, 2007
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my mora 2000 showed up just two days after ordering it.....WOW.....another feather in Ragnars cap.....

so i am examaning the blade to find no visual blemishes and that the knife is in perfect condition...

but wait what is this...the blade cant shave hair on my arm???!!! am i missing something? since this is my first mora, puukko, scandi, type knife i dont know what to expect.

yeah i know i might be way off base here...but that is a measure i use...

so after i stropped it on my spydersticks and found that didnt do anything at all i decided to use the sticks normally in the 40 degree slots...after a few strokes....BAM....its sharper than anything i have had in my hands short of my cut-throats.

Now i begin to think i may have damaged the blade...oops, think before you act moment...so i went to the garage and broke out my bags of fat wood....and went to cutting and fuzzing them...for about an hour i was out there...never stopped cuting...then i went and ate dinner....pork chops and baked potato...and i used the mora to cut the chops....(yes i washed the blade off) and it just cut the livin poo out of them chops....nice smooth cuts with no real resistance.

now i decided to see where i was at with the edge......drum roll please.....it still shaved nicely.....so i am now convinced i didnt hurt the knife and that i made a good choice for another addition to my outdoor knife collection....might even take over the general camp chore work from my RAT3

:cool::thumbup:
 
Why was there poo in your chops ;) All my bud's are getting A Mora Army knife this year for Christmas, with a note telling them to use it, or throw it in a go bag. Everyone should own a Mora.
 
no, not ruined, just not a scandi grind anymore. unless it still qualifies as a scandi with microbevel....
 
ahh...no more scandi grind....oh well....it cuts like a demon now....maybe it did before but i wouldnt know...;)
 
One thing I have found with most of my Moras is this, yes they are fantastic blades for the $$$ however the automated/computerized process that they use to grind the blades can sometimes get the edges to hot, and therefore leave the edge a bit soft.

I ALWAYS break out my waterstones and hone the edge back to "good" steel. I then ALWAYS break out my mouse-pad hone and convex a secondary edge bevel. Makes for a more robust edge that will last well past its price point.

My Mora used for wood carving exclusively is a true 0 degree edge bevel, with a slight polished secondary edge using a un-charged strop.

A knife is not mine until I sharpen it:D and for the $$$ I don't mind the extra effort it takes out of the box.

Congrats on your new knife:thumbup:
 
Hey, glad you like it. I don't own a 2000. Gotta get on the ball there.

But those Mora's are good stuff.

Remember, its a mass produced knife. They can't really afford to spend a TON of time getting it perfectly razor sharp.
 
None of my Mora's were razor sharp and the only one that arrived shaving sharp, was an Eriksson carbon 711. They all came with a secondary micro bevel and after stroping, will shave, whittle, feather, slice and dice with the best of them. The 2000 is my favorite.
 
One thing I have found with most of my Moras is this, yes they are fantastic blades for the $$$ however the automated/computerized process that they use to grind the blades can sometimes get the edges to hot, and therefore leave the edge a bit soft.

I ALWAYS break out my waterstones and hone the edge back to "good" steel.

+1... Every Mora I've owned (about seven) needed to be sharpened but once I got back to the good tempered steel, it was great.
 
+1... Every Mora I've owned (about seven) needed to be sharpened but once I got back to the good tempered steel, it was great.

I have owned about 8-9. Still the 510 is one one I like the best. Anyone that has owned several of them tends to get to know their "Moraisms";)
 
Plenty of Moras here, every one needed a little stropping to bring out the goodness. No complaints, they are well worth the $$:)
 
I own several in carbon, laminated and triflex... all hold a good edge and are easy to sharpen... not a fan of stainless so i haven't tried the 2000.
 
i got a laminated wooden handled one and it was pretty much shaving sharp when i got it. the other 6 ive owned have been sharp on only the last inch or so of the blade for some reason.
my laminated blade seems to chip really easily. same with my tryflex craftsman. the craftsman seems to be a very very strong blade though.
 
I just got my new 545 in the mail yesterday and so far I am very pleased with it. Most moras have come dull but this one was very sharp and didnt even need stropping. I havent done much with it except baton a few branches and make some fuzzy sticks but the edge is holding up great.
 
My Mora #1 came fairly dull. I bought one of Ragnar's diamond sharpeners and put a Scandi grind edge on it. Cuts like a dream.
 
As Magnum22 said, you now have a scandi grind with a micro bevel. At 20 degrees per side (40 degree setting on the sharpmaker) you are limiting your sharpness. That knife can do more.

If you ever want to snap back your scandi grind, you can do it your sharp maker. Using the housing like you are putting it away, you can lay down two stones side by side to make a flat sharpening surface. Lay the knife down so the whole portion of the wide bevel is in contact with the stones. Stroke away. That is one of the whole points of the wide bevel. Ease of sharpening.

Of course, the zero edge is an excellent idea as well.
 
sharpening that way is how i do alot of my knives.....i have a bunch of David Farmer knives a sharpen like that
 
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