For many decades I carried old school traditional slip joints with 440A of indifferent heat treat. They did everything I needed them to do as a truck driver, construction worker, development engineer, bench chemist, et. al. That experience colors my perception of what is actually required for a knife to be acceptable,
So these days,
1)
>Decent blade steel. Buck 420HC qualifies. 3CrMoV does not. Case Tru-Sharp is a maybe if there are other redeeming features. I prefer stainless.
>Needs good blade geometry and I'm not real interested in having to reprofile, though I don't mind sharpening.
>I normally avoid tantos
>If it has a lock, then I want it to be secure. And I differentiate between "secure" and "strong". "Secure"= I do not want it to accidentally release. I am unlikely to break any lock, so "strong" does not impress me.
2) All of my wants are possible in any number of knives, so I will explore designs that interest me without breaking the bank.