So nice out today had to finish up a couple (Fixed and Friction)

Hawk45 · Apr 5, 2014

Finished my 2 week project of turning my 2x42 into a 2x72. Some angle and square tube, lots of bolts and drilled holes. Tracks great and the 72" belts are MUCH nicer to work with.. much!! Anyway, it was nice out and wanted to give her a trial run. Here are the first two I have 95% done. Just a little hand finishing, buffing of handles and putting edge on them. Sorry about the bad pics, I need to build a lightbox and get a good background.

First up was a fixed blade I'm making for a buddy. First time using liners and me likey! 4.25" 1095 blade 3/16 thick. Green G10 and orange liners. Left some of the heat treat scale on the sides cuz it just looks cool.

Next up was finishing work on another friction folder. This time with SS liners and micarta scales. It was going to be brown micarta on both scales, but got a new countersink bit and sucker burned right through the one sides pivot hole. Didn't have another piece so grab a scrap piece of camo micarta and moved on. Now it kind of has a Jeckly and Hyde type look, one side is classic/elegant and the other means business.

Frank Niro · Apr 5, 2014

Hawk, you are doing good work and for a very new maker great work ! Frank

Justin Presson · Apr 6, 2014

Nice! I would like to see the modified 2x42?

Hawk45 · Apr 6, 2014

Thanks guys. Sure, I'll show some pics below. I'm a hack engineer, meaning, no real planning, just start and modify as I go, so lots of putting things together and taking them back apart, so it took a about 2 weeks and a few extra trips to Lowes than if I would have planned it all out ahead of time. This was done with a $50 Harbor Freight drill, 1/4 bit and my portable hacksaw. Down the road I may weld it up, but for now I like the ability to take apart and make changes if need. Waiting for someone to hand me $2K so I can get KMG or alike

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So here is my "shop" (less my $50 HF drill press in the basement):

Here is the project for today, get this one handled in gray G10 with green liners (wife picked the combo and I like her input, keeps her interested in my hobbies).

And here is the grinder mods. Basically cut the top off, added some 2" angle as the frame and another piece as the backbone for rigidity. Had to drill some holes and grind out a bit of material to get the bolt flush in some spots. Created a new 24" platen which is awesome for flat grinding bigger blades. The frame for the platen is 3/4" square tube and the platen is left over 2" angle. It's adjustable in/out. Added a new rest that is adjustable up/down/in/out. I also have it setup that I can go back to the 42" setup since I have a bunch of belts I have to use still (unless I just sell them and move forward with the 2x72 setup. It's pretty rigged, I'm not going to lie, but tracks well and I'm digging it. Last thing I may do is get a piece of glass added to the platen, but we'll see. Sorry the pics suck.

Justin Presson · Apr 6, 2014

Well that is pretty slick looks good. I'm with ya got to make due with what you have at the time and budget.

Hawk45 · Apr 6, 2014

Thanks man. Yeah, I'll probably add a bigger motor with VFD and pulleys to the existing motor shaft next. Then in time get a KMG chassis.

Alaska_Guy · Apr 6, 2014

May I ask how you are getting such clean plunge lines? Looks like you are cutting them in with a chainsaw file first and then using your belt sander?

Hawk45 · Apr 7, 2014

Hi Alaska Guy,
I just use my belt sander. I give myself a little extra room from where I want them to end when I start b/c I know there will be creep or may need room to fix a mistake. Using light pressure on the Craftsman means a lot more passes, which mean more room for error. And I'm not afraid to admit that mistakes happen all the time. But it gives me practice cleaning them up. If I try to speed the process up is when it happens. So I try to work until my lack of patience starts rearing it's head, then I walk away for a few mins.

Alaska_Guy · Apr 7, 2014

Gotcha.

Currently I am using a 1x42" belt sander with only 1/3HP and getting smooth plunge lines is a PAIN. Creeping up seems the only way for me too, and using a file to clean up the plunge lines. I am going to try and use two pieces of metal and sandwich the blade to see if that helps.

Looking great.

Hawk45 · Apr 7, 2014

Make sure you can get your belt to hang over a bit on the side you are doing your plunges (And most important, have a fresh, sharp belt!!). Not a lot, but enough that the belt will cut where you want. When I start with a new profile, I make some steep cuts on the edge to start, like 30 degrees, this allows me to establish the beginning of my plunge. Once I have that and want to work more on establishing my bevels and plunge, I get my blade lightly on the belt, just enough to get a spark or two, then adjust the blade position with that light pressure to where I want to make my cuts, then lean forward a bit to apply pressure once in position. Dunk in water and repeat. I also start with the light pressure about a 1/4" away from where I want to make my plunge cuts, establish that light pressure, then move to the plunge cut area. This can be a tedious process, but one that must be followed. If I try to go right in for the plunge line on every pass, I'll eventually misalign and bugger it up. And I do use files sometimes to fix mistakes on the plunge. Files are great tools. I try to get my blades 90% to what I want them to be when finished before heat treatment. So when I get them back I just need a few passes on a 120 belt to clean off the scale, then a 320 to smooth things out and get to where I want things before putting on the secondary angle and edge. I don't usually go more than 320 or 400 on my blades, but sometimes will go back and hand sand if needed. I like a more rustic looking knife.

Hope that helps. It's all really figuring out what works for you and just doing it over and over and over and over and over. I still think I suck, but hopefully suck less each knife.

BTW, I know some guys use the plunge cut stops (metal on both sides clamped), but I'd recommend sticking with freehand technique and just working on your craft. It's much more rewarding to not have to rely on jigs. And if you make mistakes, it gives you an opportunity to figure out what's not working and how to correct them. Just leave yourself some meat to work with to fix any mistakes, go slow and light pressure till you get things established. Coming back at the end and cleaning up the plunge is common since you have a finished bevel line established. Now you just need to bring it up to meet. Again, I'm not knifemaker, just a guy that likes knives and likes to make them. Do a search, the pros will be able to help much more than I can I'm sure.

Best of luck.