So What Do I Need To Know Before I Send Out My 1095 For HT?

[Omega Leather Works]

All of the knives I have made in the past have been from Nicohlson files, I gotta admit although machining was a bitch they sure do well around the kitchen and utility wise!

I got kinda tired of changing /buying belts and wanted to try some annealed 1095 and I am pleased with the results. I have made a rather nice camp knife and a little jobbie from the scrap of bar that was left Ill post pics when they are done.

My questions involve what needs to be done before I send em out for HT. My understanding is that you dont want he final edge on the knives, how narrow should the edge be though? I dont want to risk ruining the HT from grinding an edge on the knife after I get it back. What about stress risers? Im worried that I dont know what will cause a problem for the person treating it!

Usually (roughly) in your experiance how much does HT cost? I have no idea where to send em. Also I wonder if there is a shop that can do both the HT and my makers mark since I dont have the equipment for that either...

The camp knife I mentioned has a WONDERFULL profile imho but unfourtunatley I chose pretty thin stock. I should have gone with 1/4" but alas I went with 1/8" X1 1/2 X18 can I ask the HT'er to do a specific hardness? If so what would you recommend? Id like to do some light batoning but I dunno if this stock is simply too thin for it... Hmm maybe I should save my nice OD Micarta for a more 'serious' knife and use my jeancarta on this one...

Any help would be awesome oppossum!

Striga

Oh generally how long is turn around (I know this can very greatly but what has your experiance been?)


Lots of questions I know, but you guys are the best resource I have for sure!

 

[stingray4540]

Well I havent done this yet myself, but I am planning on sending out my blades when I get around to making some more, and this is what I have found.

The only place that I have come across that will do oil quenching steels is Peters:
http://www.petersheattreat.com/

Don't have any square edges on your steel when you send it in.

Yes you can specify what hardness you want, in fact I think you have to or they won't know what to do with what you sent them.

I don't think that any Heat treaters will do makers marks, simply because you have to buy your own stamp or stencil, they don't have what you want and probably don't have the equipment to do it. If you etch you can do that after heat treat, but if you stamp you will need to do that before heat treat.

I hope that helps a little bit, hopefully some more knowledgeable people will come buy to fill in the blanks and/or correct me.

 

[jacqueeagonsr]

I have never used 1095 - but, since I do all my own heat treating, your question got me curious. According to Admiral Steel

http://www.admiralsteel.com/reference/heattrt.html

1095 is water quenchable. If you have access to a furnace or forge, you might give it a shot on the blade you made from the scrap piece.

They call you Tex yet you live in Californy??

J.

 

[David Schott]

My understanding is that you dont want he final edge on the knives, how narrow should the edge be though? I dont want to risk ruining the HT from grinding an edge on the knife after I get it back.

What about stress risers? Im worried that I dont know what will cause a problem for the person treating it!

I can answer these two: Leave the edge somewhere around a dime if you are beginning....some go thinner, but you might be asking for trouble with warping if your grinding isnt perfectly even, etc etc. Once that blade is heat treated, you need to grind SLOWLY. Use your bare hands right behind where you are grinding. If its too hot to press your finger against, youre quickly approaching danger zone. Dip in water every pass or two and be extra careful at the tip, which can go from fine to blue in a fraction of a second and be ruined. Quick, short passes and dunks in water avoid this.

As for stress risers, try not to have deep grinder marks or right angle cuts anywhere. Be sure to drill your holes first, as well.

I've never paid for HT, so I'll let someone else handle that.

I would also absurdly strongly advise against water heat treating 1095 if you are at all new. Even the best smiths in the world have very high failure rates since its such a violent quench medium in the thicknesses we are working. if you want to attempt it yourself, read the stickies on this forum. There are endless links on how to properly HT 1095 here.

 

[jacqueeagonsr]

I would also absurdly strongly advise against water heat treating 1095 - - - -.

I kinda wondered about that myself. The only time I personally tried a water quench on an air quenchable steel (A6), I cracked the blade. I wonder why Admiral has it on their site?? Thought I might get a rise out of someone on that one.
Thanks,
J.

 

[David Schott]

I think its because thier specs might be for much larger cross-sectioned pieces of 1095 for industrial uses. I haven't tried or claim to know for sure, but i'd be you get a much higher sucess rate water quencing 2"X2" bars of 1095 than a 1/8" thick blade with an edge as thin as a dime.