I'll chime in with my thoughts.
1) All steel can warp. Some more than others, but 99% of warp is from the HT procedures ... and 99% of the correction can be done with the proper procedures in the quench and temper.
2) AEB-L isn't any better or worse to make knives form than 440 or any basic stainless steel. You have to learn its particular attributes and procedures, just like any other steel.
3) Buying for an established seller, like Chuck, Aldo, Pops, or the other long time suppliers will give you tried and tested steel and good customer service. The price may be lower from an eBay seller or a fellow getting rid of band saw blades, but you won't necessarily get any good info or help if you have a problem.
4) Remember that the sellers don't make the steel themselves. They buy a batch from a mill or supplier and cut it up to sell. If there is a problem, they try to find the issue, and either give the proper HT parameters, or take back all they sold and bite a big loss. We have to give them some slack for this, as they can't control everything.
5) If you have an issue with a batch of steel, call the supplier and talk to them about your problem. They may offer a solution. Test I against another batch before decaling that it is "bad steel". Many times it is good steel, just different from your last batch. Many time it is an error on your part, and you haven't traced the problem. If you need help, post in Shop Talk and give the specifics about the problem. Don't start with blaming the seller or questioning the steel's quality. The last thing to do is make a thread where you start roaring about how bad the steel is from XYZ when all you have bought is a few feet. It takes time and many blades to learn any steel. Every batch may need a little tweak from the last. That is why buying on larger batches is wise.
Try and keep this thread on the steels you have PERSONALLY purchased and comments about your PERSONAL use and issues. Lets not start talking about what you heard or read elsewhere.