So who is loving AEB-L?

JdM61, I used preheat temperature and equalized, ramped to austenitize temperature with 15 min soak. AEB -L wants to return to the roll. I do like the steel for edge stability but it just has to be babied a little more then other grades I have used.
 
I have some from AKS that I've been sitting on for awhile. I've never used stainless or specifically AEB-L and wanted some advice on grinding.

Planning on making some Kitchen knives and was wondering if most just profile before HT and then grind after HT, or do you do any pre-HT grinding. If so how thin go you go edgewise.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
What I've done on the few chef knives I've made with AEB-L so far, based on Chuck Bybee's (Alpha Knife Supply) recommendation, was to cut and profile before HT, then grind afterward. It's easier to keep the blades flat in HT if not beveled. At 62 Rockwell, the steel is surprisingly easy to grind. Of course you'll find it much easier to do with sharp belts, and I used 984F Cubitron II belts to rough grind with. The Fandelli ceramic belts that I have a few of, when about half used up, don't much want to cut hardened AEB-L. I also found that Gator belts cut hardened AEB-L quite well for scratch removal.

I'd recommend grinding it hardened for sure. I was starting with .090" thick stock, and it didn't take me too awful long to grind full height flat grinds on 8" chef blades 2" tall at the heel.
 
I have a few knives made in AEB-L and I like it. My friend the late Jim Whitman had been using it since the early 80's for his hunting knives that he made. He absolutely loved it for its ease of resharpening in the field.
 
Salem Straub said:
What I've done on the few chef knives I've made with AEB-L so far, based on Chuck Bybee's (Alpha Knife Supply) recommendation, was to cut and profile before HT, then grind afterward. It's easier to keep the blades flat in HT if not beveled. At 62 Rockwell, the steel is surprisingly easy to grind. Of course you'll find it much easier to do with sharp belts, and I used 984F Cubitron II belts to rough grind with. The Fandelli ceramic belts that I have a few of, when about half used up, don't much want to cut hardened AEB-L. I also found that Gator belts cut hardened AEB-L quite well for scratch removal.

I'd recommend grinding it hardened for sure. I was starting with .090" thick stock, and it didn't take me too awful long to grind full height flat grinds on 8" chef blades 2" tall at the heel.
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Thanks for the advice Salem. This was the way I was leaning and will probably do that as I have some 240mm Gyuto's in mind. My stock is 0.110" AEB-L and also have a piece of 14C28N that I planned on treating similarly (0.098"), though on the AKS website it does say the steel gets very hard so not sure.
 
AEB-L can/will warp if ground too thin before HT(I know;))..Though we have started to "half grind" and am having no problems with warping that way either..By half grind I mean the grind started but no distal taper yet.Looks about like a saber grind but the spine is still full thickness that way the quench plates still make contact along the whole length..Been wrking for us anyway..
 
I wonder if anyone here used AEB/L brother in law sandvik 14C28N?, I purchased some at 0.13" thickness and I'm about to use it.


Pablo
 
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