Soak temp for a particular damascus mix?

Danbo

Danbo

Joined
Nov 28, 1999
Messages
14,985
Ok, so I got a couple blades ground out of some new damascus and am wondering exactly what temperature I should set the oven for when doing the soak/quench? Damascus mix is Aldo's W2 and 15n20. Last plain W2 blade I did, I set the oven at 1440 and did a 20 minute soak. I believe 15N20 requires a bit higher temp, though. Right? 1475-1500 sound right? Obviously, some kind of compromise has to be met here. I was thinking 1475 for the damascus.

Any suggestions from the experts here?
 
I do my 1084/15n20 at 1485 for 20 minutes in a kiln that has been equilibrated for at least a half hour previous to the blade being put in. I put a piece of lump charcoal in to deal with any free oxygen in the chamber when I put the blade in. YMMV

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What are you quenching in?

I ask because of the mix of water hardening (W2) and oil hardening (15n20) steels

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I have been having great results quenching my 1095 15n20 mix in Parks 50. 1475 sounds bout right for me too.
 
sunshadow said:
I do my 1084/15n20 at 1485 for 20 minutes in a kiln that has been equilibrated for at least a half hour previous to the blade being put in. I put a piece of lump charcoal in to deal with any free oxygen in the chamber when I put the blade in. YMMV

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I have to ask... what effect does the smoke from the lump coal have on the thermocouple and elements? Would it not be better to coat the steel with an anti-decarb solution?
 
Rick Marchand said:
I have to ask... what effect does the smoke from the lump coal have on the thermocouple and elements? Would it not be better to coat the steel with an anti-decarb solution?
Click to expand...

I am using the charcoal to create carbon monoxide IE a reducing atmosphere. a 1 1/2 inch square lump of hardwood charcoal will last through 8 blades (the most I have ever run in one batch since I started doing it this way 5 years ago) since for the most part the kiln is somewhat sealed. I have experienced very little decarb even with extended soaks doing it this way, and I am still using my original elements in my original lab kiln and my original Sears sheathed probe thermocouple. I don't currently have access to a microscope for accurately measuring decarb penetration and comparing this method to doing it without the charcoal, but it seems to work well and has reduced my perceptible decarb effects to almost nothing

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