Re: SOF article, 4th Gurkhas officer, John Masters wrote about serving in that same area some 60-odd years ago in his great book, "Bugles and a Tiger".
(Story-time!) More recently, I remember as a kid meeting one of dad's fellow officer of the 1st Gorkhas in a party to honor his return after "being loaned" to the Afghan govt. in the mid-80s. From what I understand he served in various capacities with the Soviet-backed Afghan govt. (this was back when India and the USSR were close buddies). Seems he managed to enter the Peshawar region and even bought several local AK varieties in the market which he'd brought back as souvenirs of his trip. How he managed that, I don't know - him being Indian, Hindu, and working with the Soviets, not exactly the most popular combination to be if the locals found out!
Story at that time was that you could buy practically any type of arms in the Peshawar area, from old British Webleys to Russian tanks, for the latter though, there'd be a bit of waiting involved, y'see the boys had to go over the hills, find a suitable specimen, and persuade the occupants to part with it! (of course, this could just be another tall tale, but that's what I heard as an 11yr. old in the 1GR officer's mess!)
Arvind, yaar, you bring up another interesting thing. My family was living in Jammu & Kashmir in 1984 when the troubles began. I remember travelling in trains through Punjab with rifle-toting police and soldiers at every door. Buses had to gather at various points during evenings, form into convoys with police protection and then only could they travel at nights. I remember passing through Delhi immediately after the riots, you could see columns of smoke where the goons had burnt Sikh houses, shops, neighborhoods. Chilling sight to see. I remember hearing, reading and seeing that Sikh neighborhoods which escaped unscathed were where the mobs had run into Sikh men armed and ready to defend their communities, armed here being for the most part tulwars, spears, and the like. It was also at this time that my Sikh classmates began to replace their symbolic kripans with the real, sharp variety displayed prominently. The sisters at my Jesuit high-school were in a big huff over this, but the kids wouldn't back down.
And the one-eyed Sikh King, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, from what little I read seemed to have been quite a character! He fielded a pretty formidable army which included European mercenaries especially in artillery, Gorkhalis (thus the casual Nepali term "Lahuray" for a Gorkha soldier, from Lahore, Ranjit singh's capital).
- Sonam