Soften a New (to me) Leather Knife Pouch

Decided to take a closer look at the knife to see if there were any scratches from it previously being put into the pouch.





Not very prominent but I might still give some very fine wet sandpaper a go. Mostly because I'm a dork and I wanna try ^_^

This is also a test to see if I can upload pics through photobucket. Never tried it before. :)
 
Wow Robin this is awesome! Thanks so much for the pictures. This really makes it clear. Can't wait to try this. Although, I'm note sure as to where I can find a strip of deer hide like this...

Hi Pink pearl
Actually deerhide makes it a bit harder to push the strip inside the pouch,it's soft and sticks and stretches. A soft finished leather would slide in much easier. And old purse or jacket would work. I like the skin against my knives but it would slide in and out much better with the skin to the inside of the pouch. If you have an awl to punch holes it would last forever if you stitched across the liner. I'll do that on mine tomorrow and show you the steps.


Regards

Robin
 
What you think Robin? I say start at 120 grit and go from there. :eek: Just kidding. Drop it on the ground...the first ding is the worst and besides you own it. :D
 
What you think Robin? I say start at 120 grit and go from there. :eek: Just kidding. Drop it on the ground...the first ding is the worst and besides you own it. :D
I totally dulled the steel bolsters on my Charlie sheepsfoot barlow with well used 1000. I'd use 2000 then buffing compound. NS scratches. I'd sure hate to drop that ivory though, did it with a pearl whittler that had perfect scales:o

Watch for emails starting mid day

R
 
I totally dulled the steel bolsters on my Charlie sheepsfoot barlow with well used 1000. I'd use 2000 then buffing compound. NS scratches. I'd sure hate to drop that ivory though, did it with a pearl whittler that had perfect scales:o

Watch for emails starting mid day

R

:thumbup: Will do.
 
wrap the knife in cellophane/cling wrap and carry it in the pocket slip for a few days - this will allow the leather to conform to the contours of the knife and begin to soften without being able to scratch up the bolsters. After that, if it's still too rough/stiff inside, then you may need to line it with a piece of chamois or deerskin.
 
wrap the knife in cellophane/cling wrap and carry it in the pocket slip for a few days - this will allow the leather to conform to the contours of the knife and begin to soften without being able to scratch up the bolsters. After that, if it's still too rough/stiff inside, then you may need to line it with a piece of chamois or deerskin.

This is an awesome suggestion! I might just do this. Do you think it will really get the fibers inside the pouch soft again?
 
The 1000+ grit sandpaper will dull it, so you will have to follow the sanding with a metal polish, such as Flitz, to get the high shine back. Use a very minimal amount of the polish and be VERY CAREFUL around the ivory scales with the polish, it turns black and I suspect it might get absorbed and darken the ivory if you get to aggressive with the polish. I know it will do that to stag handles and is less than desirable. I do not have a knife with genuine ivory scales, so I am only assuming that it might absorb some of the black, much like stag. I only wrote this to caution you to at least test it or look closely to see how porous the ivory might be. Some of the others that have ivory handles and that have used metal polish on the bolsters might chime in here - I just do not want to see the member's knife scales messed up, due to not enough information being posted.;):)

P.S. - also try to avoid getting the metal polish down in the arrow on the bolster - it will likely shine the blackened highlights. You could also use the blue painter's tape where the ivory meets the bolsters, but, still be careful around the ivory - it can get under the tape if you are too aggressive.

The way it looks in the picture, just a very small amount of the polish without the sanding would probably hide the micro scratches - or you could just leave it alone, as the bolsters will nearly always get micro scratches, even lightly carried. ;)
 
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This is an awesome suggestion! I might just do this. Do you think it will really get the fibers inside the pouch soft again?

sweat and body oils the leather picks up in your pocket will help soften it -- and form it to the shape of the knife.
 
The 1000+ grit sandpaper will dull it, so you will have to follow the sanding with a metal polish, such as Flitz, to get the high shine back. Use a very minimal amount of the polish and be VERY CAREFUL around the ivory scales with the polish, it turns black and I suspect it might get absorbed and darken the ivory if you get to aggressive with the polish. I know it will do that to stag handles and is less than desirable. I do not have a knife with genuine ivory scales, so I am only assuming that it might absorb some of the black, much like stag. I only wrote this to caution you to at least test it or look closely to see how porous the ivory might be. Some of the others that have ivory handles and that have used metal polish on the bolsters might chime in here - I just do not want to see the member's knife scales messed up, due to not enough information being posted.;):)

P.S. - also try to avoid getting the metal polish down in the arrow on the bolster - it will likely shine the blackened highlights. You could also use the blue painter's tape where the ivory meets the bolsters, but, still be careful around the ivory - it can get under the tape if you are too aggressive.

The way it looks in the picture, just a very small amount of the polish without the sanding would probably hide the micro scratches - or you could just leave it alone, as the bolsters will nearly always get micro scratches, even lightly carried. ;)
This is great information. Thank you Primble! I really appreciate when members give more info and warnings just in case. I am new to knife maintenance and am very glad to have members like you to look out for potential newbie mistakes.
 
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