On durability I say you can break any tool with abuse. Sure it is harder to bend a crowbar than a fork and yet I have still bent both. I would rather have the right tool for the job than the wrong tool for the sake of durability. None of my Mora knives have broken yet and some of them have been passed down from father to son. As a heads up some of the knock-off Mora style knives have though. Shocks to the handle is what killed them. Throwing the knives at stuff or hitting the handle with a hammer. As long as the handle is seated correctly partial tangs are not a problem IMHO, people have been getting by with partial tangs for a loooong time. Besides it is not like the knife is ruined even if the handle does fall off, you just put a new handle on it.
The "bushcraft" and "bushcraft survival" Mora models are junk. They were created to milk the imaginary "survival knife" market created by marketing hoopla. Notice how they are many times the price of the standard Mora knives sold to carpenters and outdoorsmen. Carpenters don't pay for hoopla. "Survival" is not a valid use for a knife. The original models got closer to the truth about outdoor living. All a knife has to do is cut and cut well. The scandi grind does well in that respect with a 2mm spine thickness. The bushcraft/survival ones have a spine thickness of 3mm or more. This is totally unnecessary and it reduces the slicing capability of the knives.
Why go for something like a mora clipper over the knives the OP posted? OK lets elaborate...
First off there is the handle. The simpler handle on the mora knives allows for different size hands and different grips easier than for the fighting stile knives. Another thing about handles people often neglect until they start using it how close you can get to the edge. The close your hand is to the edge the more leverage you can apply to the cut. To illustrate imagine cutting with the tip of a knife vs the base of a knife. Most Mora knives are sharpened all the way to the handle of the knife.
Next look at the spines of the knives. The Mora has a straight spine with a flat edge. Compare that to the SOG knife above. All those ridges and the false edge will be a real pain if you want to use your other hand to apply pressure to the back of the blade.
Then there is the grind. Marcinek stated that he prefers a full flat grind for general use. I say most of what I am cutting in the woods is wood and for that scandi grands do very well. It is not a bad grind for general use either.
Finally there is the price. For the price of the combat style knives you can buy many Mora knives. No need to sharpen them when you are done or worry about losing them or lending them out.
The "bushcraft" and "bushcraft survival" Mora models are junk. They were created to milk the imaginary "survival knife" market created by marketing hoopla. Notice how they are many times the price of the standard Mora knives sold to carpenters and outdoorsmen. Carpenters don't pay for hoopla. "Survival" is not a valid use for a knife. The original models got closer to the truth about outdoor living. All a knife has to do is cut and cut well. The scandi grind does well in that respect with a 2mm spine thickness. The bushcraft/survival ones have a spine thickness of 3mm or more. This is totally unnecessary and it reduces the slicing capability of the knives.
Why go for something like a mora clipper over the knives the OP posted? OK lets elaborate...
First off there is the handle. The simpler handle on the mora knives allows for different size hands and different grips easier than for the fighting stile knives. Another thing about handles people often neglect until they start using it how close you can get to the edge. The close your hand is to the edge the more leverage you can apply to the cut. To illustrate imagine cutting with the tip of a knife vs the base of a knife. Most Mora knives are sharpened all the way to the handle of the knife.
Next look at the spines of the knives. The Mora has a straight spine with a flat edge. Compare that to the SOG knife above. All those ridges and the false edge will be a real pain if you want to use your other hand to apply pressure to the back of the blade.
Then there is the grind. Marcinek stated that he prefers a full flat grind for general use. I say most of what I am cutting in the woods is wood and for that scandi grands do very well. It is not a bad grind for general use either.
Finally there is the price. For the price of the combat style knives you can buy many Mora knives. No need to sharpen them when you are done or worry about losing them or lending them out.
