- Joined
- Aug 31, 2011
- Messages
- 3,119
With these colors, it will be hard to lose this one.
Steel: A2 bar stock.
Heat Treat: Bos for 60 RC.
Thickness: 1/8".
Blade: 4".
OAL: 8 1/2".
Weight of Knife: 5.2 oz.
Combined Weight of Knife, Sheath, and All Attachments and Fasteners: 9.9 oz.
Handle: micarta pins, stainless thong tube, G10 and micarta, all joined with G-Flex epoxy.
Blade is sanded to 400 grit. Handle is sanded to 320 grit.
Comes with the sheath and sheath attachments pictures here.
There are a few quirks about this rig: You may be able to spot a few scratches, right in front of the left side handle scale, and in the plunge line. The camera does not pick these up. The under-spine is not as pretty as the top spine. The kydex has a bit of shininess, which I have shown in the picture. There are two extra holes drilled in the "high ride" leather attachment. The extra holes don't hurt anything; they just aren't necessary. Didn't want to throw away a perfectly good piece of leather after I realized my mistake.
My goal with the handle design was to use different thicknesses and contrasting colors to create the illusion that the materials are magically passing through the tang. Don't know if I accomplished that
, but I still think it looks pretty cool.
Got photobombed by a piece of lint, RIGHT in front of the scale here:
WAS $125. Now $110. People told me I was under-pricing, so I am learning how to price by trial and error.
Price includes PayPal fees and Priority Shipping in USA. For Canada, PM me to work out extra shipping cost.
First "I'll take it" gets it.
General notes on my knife-making process:
Experience: I have made about 35 knives.
Heat Treat: Bos Heat Treat is part of Buck Knives. For more information, go here: http://www.buckknives.com/about-knives/heat-treating/
Handle Shaping: My handle shape is not identical from one knife to the next. I mimic shapes of kitchen knives and hunting knives I have had or handled over the past 44 years. I shape the handle until it looks and feels right.
Edge thickness: I use a metric ruler, before heat treat, to estimate an edge thickness of .33 mm edge = .013". When the blades come back from Bos, I do minimal sanding on them. I would say that when I start to set the edge, I have .011 to .012". I do not have a micrometer for precise measurement of this.
Sharpening: Whereas I formerly used a DMT guided sharpener, I now start with an India stone, then go to a DMT Red (Fine), then to the bottom of a coffee mug. I sharpen until it is hair popping sharp, completely free-handed. I have been going lower and lower with A2, on the sharpening angle. I don't measure precisely, but on this hunter, I would estimate it to be 11 degrees per side. I can steepen the edge at the buyer's request.
My Choice Of Steel, and the Question Of Rust:
I have had knives in all kinds of stainless and carbon steels over the past 44 years, except "super steels." There is a trade off between ease of sharpening, and stain resistance. A lot of Bush crafters prefer O1, even though it will rust pretty easily. I still carry a carbon steel puukko canoeing, because it is so easy to sharpen. I keep it wiped clean and dry, and never have a problem with rust. I am currently making knives in A2 for two main reasons: 1.) It is easy to sand and grind. 2.) It can take a tough, thin edge. As an example: I once made a prototype in A2, with Bos heat treat for 60 RC. Before setting the cutting edge, I had my standard .011" thickness. I then set the edge at 14 degrees per side, using a guided sharpener, to create a "V" edge. I then did some batoning to split hardwood dowels. Then I did some chopping across the grain, on the same dowels. After batoning and chopping, there were no signs of rolling or chipping on the edge. A2 is not 3V, but with the heat treat at 60RC, as long as it does not come into contact with stone, it will be fine. If you want a 3V knife for splitting cinder blocks, talk to Nathan Carrothers.
Steel: A2 bar stock.
Heat Treat: Bos for 60 RC.
Thickness: 1/8".
Blade: 4".
OAL: 8 1/2".
Weight of Knife: 5.2 oz.
Combined Weight of Knife, Sheath, and All Attachments and Fasteners: 9.9 oz.
Handle: micarta pins, stainless thong tube, G10 and micarta, all joined with G-Flex epoxy.
Blade is sanded to 400 grit. Handle is sanded to 320 grit.
Comes with the sheath and sheath attachments pictures here.
There are a few quirks about this rig: You may be able to spot a few scratches, right in front of the left side handle scale, and in the plunge line. The camera does not pick these up. The under-spine is not as pretty as the top spine. The kydex has a bit of shininess, which I have shown in the picture. There are two extra holes drilled in the "high ride" leather attachment. The extra holes don't hurt anything; they just aren't necessary. Didn't want to throw away a perfectly good piece of leather after I realized my mistake.
My goal with the handle design was to use different thicknesses and contrasting colors to create the illusion that the materials are magically passing through the tang. Don't know if I accomplished that
, but I still think it looks pretty cool.
Got photobombed by a piece of lint, RIGHT in front of the scale here:
WAS $125. Now $110. People told me I was under-pricing, so I am learning how to price by trial and error.
Price includes PayPal fees and Priority Shipping in USA. For Canada, PM me to work out extra shipping cost.
First "I'll take it" gets it.
General notes on my knife-making process:
Experience: I have made about 35 knives.
Heat Treat: Bos Heat Treat is part of Buck Knives. For more information, go here: http://www.buckknives.com/about-knives/heat-treating/
Handle Shaping: My handle shape is not identical from one knife to the next. I mimic shapes of kitchen knives and hunting knives I have had or handled over the past 44 years. I shape the handle until it looks and feels right.
Edge thickness: I use a metric ruler, before heat treat, to estimate an edge thickness of .33 mm edge = .013". When the blades come back from Bos, I do minimal sanding on them. I would say that when I start to set the edge, I have .011 to .012". I do not have a micrometer for precise measurement of this.
Sharpening: Whereas I formerly used a DMT guided sharpener, I now start with an India stone, then go to a DMT Red (Fine), then to the bottom of a coffee mug. I sharpen until it is hair popping sharp, completely free-handed. I have been going lower and lower with A2, on the sharpening angle. I don't measure precisely, but on this hunter, I would estimate it to be 11 degrees per side. I can steepen the edge at the buyer's request.
My Choice Of Steel, and the Question Of Rust:
I have had knives in all kinds of stainless and carbon steels over the past 44 years, except "super steels." There is a trade off between ease of sharpening, and stain resistance. A lot of Bush crafters prefer O1, even though it will rust pretty easily. I still carry a carbon steel puukko canoeing, because it is so easy to sharpen. I keep it wiped clean and dry, and never have a problem with rust. I am currently making knives in A2 for two main reasons: 1.) It is easy to sand and grind. 2.) It can take a tough, thin edge. As an example: I once made a prototype in A2, with Bos heat treat for 60 RC. Before setting the cutting edge, I had my standard .011" thickness. I then set the edge at 14 degrees per side, using a guided sharpener, to create a "V" edge. I then did some batoning to split hardwood dowels. Then I did some chopping across the grain, on the same dowels. After batoning and chopping, there were no signs of rolling or chipping on the edge. A2 is not 3V, but with the heat treat at 60RC, as long as it does not come into contact with stone, it will be fine. If you want a 3V knife for splitting cinder blocks, talk to Nathan Carrothers.
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