Solder bronze washer to stainless?

[elementfe]

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...lbums/5690871955248733457/5718716133841897570

I'm probably the only one who has ever done this- had a total brain fart when doing a prototype for a flipper idea and ended up with this.
Now that I'm this far into it, I'd like to get it working and give it away or play with it.

Here's the question: Has anyone out there tried soldering a washer to 410 stainless?

Trimming it really small doesn't make a lot of sense, it seems better to have a decent amount of bearing surface, so I thought I'd solder it on and just cut out enough for the lock to work.
BTW, the locking tab will have to be trimmed quite a bit, it's not QUITE as bad as it looks, but the locking face on the blade is way shorter than it should be.

Thanks for looking,
Andy Gladish
Guemes Island, WA

OK, answered my own question: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mzK5gdyKSEg/T10DhTCUcNI/AAAAAAAACuc/7dirJiP6NR4/h301/12+-+1
I used a nib of Sta Brite with the liquid flux that comes with it, worked great.
I gained a couple thousandths on one side of the washer (could have clamped it or tinned first) but for this proto a couple swipes with a file made it good.
Hope this helps somebody!

 

[ron_m80]

I don't have my head wrapped around what you are talking about, but to the question posed in the title;

www.harrisproductsgroup.com/ They have great support available.

A high silver alloy would work well 25-50%. I am pretty sure Silver Bearing solder would take as well.

 

[P.K.Hansen]

Might be a stupid question, but can't you just glue it instead?

 

[elementfe]

Might be a stupid question, but can't you just glue it instead?

Probably that would have been fine for a prototype, but I want everything as solid as I can get it, and the Sta Brite is really user friendly- works well at low temps so you get a minimum of heat bleeding off into areas where you don't want it.