Soldering 416 stainless bolsters to full tang 440c stainless blades

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robbgray

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May 8, 2008
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I have been soldering brass and nickel silver to 440c stainless blades for 2 years using Saybright from Jantz. Now I want to use 416 stainless for hand guards and am having a horrible time getting it to work. I clean every thing thoroughly. I apply the liqued flux lightly and only where I want the solder to go. I mill the bottom of the bolster and rough sand the blade where the connection is being made. I swet solder the bottom of the bolsters first, then clean everything again. Then I clamp them in place with vice grips and apply heat via propane torch. Everything looks great, I profile the bolsters taking great care not to let the heat build up while grinding. 3 times now I am in the process of epoxying one side of the scales on and push against the bolster and it pops off. The other side holds very well. What am I doing wrong?
Also, I saw while searching "soldering" that someone said they "tin" before soldering stainless and I don't know what that means. Any help on this would be appreciated.....robb
 
Get rid of the vise grips. They are acting as a heat sink, and you're getting a "cold" joint.
Tinning is applying a thin coating of solder to each part-and you are doing that to the bolsters.
Try wiring the bolsters in place instead of the pliers.
 
Have you considered peening for the bond and solder for the seal? I want to do just that im thinking of milling a few thousands around the front then top and bottom of the bolsters then peen down and solder the joints. What does everyone think about that?
 
Thank you Bill! Another question - do you reccommend that I let the steel cool completely naturally, or do I wait for the solder to set then put the whole piece in water to cool it?
 
I dont solder bolsters on but instead pin them. The problem with solder is the flux is corrosive enough to damage the finish on the blade and I spend hours sanding that area afterward. If everything is flat the joint is invisible. No epoxy, just clean and dry. If you still would rather solder the joint, tin both the blade and bolsters and clamp with finger clamps that wont suck the heat away. The tinning is important to make sure the entire joint is covered and leaves no voids.
 
Bruce,

Do you pin your slippie bolsters in this fashion also ?

I've been thinking a spot welder may be a worth while investment for this purpose, whats your take?

Thanks -Josh
 
As far as Robbgray, I fully agree with Bruce. Pin and peen. Maximum strength, no cleanup.
 
Josh Dabney said:
Bruce,

Do you pin your slippie bolsters in this fashion also ?

I've been thinking a spot welder may be a worth while investment for this purpose, whats your take?

Thanks -Josh
Click to expand...

Hi Josh,
I dont pin the slippie bolsters. I tin the liner and bolster and clamp them with the finger clamps and heat with a low flame with the propane torch. I learned this method from Tony Bose. It works really well. I personally dont like the spot welder method.
 
For soldering stainless, I always tin first with an acid flux,
then clean thoroughly, then assemble using a rosin flux.

......works well because I'm only soldering to solder....also,
theres no acid trapped inside, only to eat it's way out later.
 
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