Soldering a guard

[Smithy]

The first rule of soldering is that cleanliness is absolutely necessary. Use soap & water first, followed by alcohol. The second rule of soldering is that the parts must fit together perfectly. Solder will not fill a gap. The third rule is that both pieces to be soldered must reach soldering temperature at the same time for the solder to flow. Solder will always follow the heat, so first heat the pieces together by directing your flame all around both pieces to get them hot together. When the solder melts, quickly direct the heat to where you want the solder to go. If you have applied the solder in snippets around the joint, bring your flame to the opposite side to draw the solder through the joint.

Some notes on "soft" soldering,ie lead based solder that melts at about 400 degrees F as opposed to "hard" soldering which is based on a silver or gold based solder which melts from 1050 degrees:

1. Do not use too much solder. If you are using soft solder, flatten the round solder wire flat and then "snip" off what you need. I use snippets of solder aprox. 2mm x 2mm when soft soldering. I use about 3 snippets per side.

2. If your flux turns brown or black, stop and clean it off and start over. The flux is shot and you will not get a good joint

3. When soldering, keep your torch moving about the joint continually or you will get hot spots where the solder will melt in a glob and not flow throughout the joint.

4. Be careful of the flux that comes with most soft solder. If you apply too much and it runs over your blade, a stain on the steel may happen. I use a Q-tip to remove any excess flux
from the joint.

5. DON'T TRY TO RUSH--it only causes problems.

I am really new to knifemaking and I have a question (not trying to hi-jack this thread). If anyone out there "hard" solders the blade and guard, do you do it before or after H/T? ...Teddy

 

[Salem Straub]

Lots of good points there. Re: hard soldering a guard- I've done it a couple of times, actually brazed it on, did it before HT. For the quench, I used a torch to heat just the bottom half (edge section) of the blade, to keep the heat away from the joint. It went OK. On one I flowed brass over to my (at the time) punched trademark on the ricasso, then ground it back afterwards for a brass filled name. That was cool, but I wouldn't do this stuff now. I want the blade to have an even structure metallurgically throughout, with a variable temper if anything.

Plus, it was a lot of cleanup. Soft solder is easier for me to apply minimally and clean up afterwards.

 

[perseu]

Hello forum.
what`s the better acid to made drawing with relief in a 8Cr13MoV steel. I´m pretend to do a dagger with celtic draws in the middle. It´s my first time to do draws of this kind, so i ask help to forum. thanks.