Soldering Question

C

Celtic Archer

Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
28
Hi all. Quick, dumb question here.

I am getting ready to, FINALLY, dive into a first knife project and have a question.

I'm making the blade from 440 but want to put a brass guard on it. What exactly is the process for soldering the guard to the blade? Materials, tools, etc.


Thanks in advance.
 
Find a low temp solder and flux that says..for stainless steel...apply the flux to both parts to be soldered and melt solder on both pcs..pretinning...lightly clamp the two pcs together, apply heat..voila.
 
A 95Sn-5Ag solder or close to that, flux made for stainless steel.O/A torch is best , then MAPP, then propane [maybe two of those].Spend the time to get a close fit , .003" is ideal.
 
Texas knife has easy flow flux and solder in a kit form that works really well. I use a propane torch. Process is fit the guard make sure its square, scribe a line where the guard matches the blade, rough the tang of the blade up to the scribe line, clean with acetone then with alcohol (no paint thinner) put guard back on ( no finger prints), put liberal amount of flux (its liquid) on joint, cut some small 1/4" long pieces of solder and place on joint, heat the tang of the knife from below the guard. When the flux starts to sizzle you are close, remove the heat and wait a second or two. If solder doent melt apply heat, when flux turns brown you are getting too hot. When the solder melts brush joint with small brass brush until all gaps are covered and excess solder is removed from blade and guard, flux-solder and reheat if needed. Remove any excess solder with a sharp brass rod, it wont scratch. Sorry I dont have a pic of the finished joint but this gives you and idea of what mete was saying, a close fit give a good joint. I used about 6 1/4" pieced to solder this so dont use too much.

HPIM2198.jpg
 
Oatey has a kit that you should be able to find at HD; it comes with lead free tinning flux, Silver bearing solder and a brush for the flux. it's in the plumbing department; I tested it on a stainless keg and it definitely sticks.

Edit; I just read the label of the flux and it says it doesn't flux stainless steel but it is definitely what I used and it did work... I also sanded it jsut before soldering.
 
Last edited:
Go to your local welding supply. Ask for Staybright solder and stayclean flux. Then practice, practice, practice! ( If they don't have it, they usually can order it.) Another very good source is Pop's knife supply. He carries a great solder and flux.

M.Lovett
 
Stainless has to be fresh-sanded just before soldering. I use Stay Clean flux and have no problems at all. Silver-bearing (means it has a little bit of silver in it) solder works well.
 
Would the above solder & flux suggestions be appropriate to use for 1095 or 5160 and mild steel guards?
 
robinsteele said:
Would the above solder & flux suggestions be appropriate to use for 1095 or 5160 and mild steel guards?
Click to expand...

That's exactly where my thoughts were headed. I started out working 440C and had absolutely no luck soldering (now I think I understand why), and it completely turned me off trying to solder anything ever. But I've always preferred the look of solder over other alternatives and would like to add it to my options.

Thinking about it, I guess I can successfully solder brass to brass. For whatever good that does a knife maker. :D
 
The 2 most important things when soldering stainless is 1. make it as clean as you can before you solder, that means use a good acid flux. and 2. tin it a first, this means clean the crap out of it and put some solder on to get it to stick then move it around until it covers the area you want to stick to what ever your putting it on. Then and this is important if your putting it on as a guard, wipe off the excess so that there is only a film of solder.

This helps with the gap issue when soldering on guards, if the tolerance between the guard and the blade isnt a tight fit, and you dont tin it, it usualy wont run/stick.
but if you tin it and it will more times than not.

one more tip only put enough heat on to melt the solder one time more than that will cause impurities in the solder and it wont stick as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top