Some silver solders have flux for regular steel, and another for stainless. I would guess that most silver solders used by knifemakers have dual usage flux anymore.
I use Sta-Brite, Force 44 from Brownells, Tik, etc.
K&G sells a kit with solder, flux etc., all in one package. It's good stuff too. The silver solder I am referring to melts at 400-440 degrees F.
Make sure your surfaces are totally clean before you attempt to solder. I use a cotton swab to run some flux around my tang, and the inside of the guard. Assemble, and heat the tang and guard from below, all around. Be careful not to burn the flux, if it turns black, too hot, and better clean it up and start again. Other than that, it solders like anything else.
I am assuming you are trying to solder 416 stainless, and not the 300 series, which is so difficult as to be almost impossible, at least for me, and many others.