Soldering to fix guard fit up- what are the limits

Let it cool completely before moving the knife or any cleanup.

Bill's solution of a seppa (decorative cover disc) is also a good solution. I often use this when fitting a blade to a commercial guard or and antique guard that has a larger slot.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith I’m having trouble getting the tix to flow. Ive tried using different methods of cleaning- denatured alcohol, sunshine cloth, etc. I’m using a small jewelers torch. I tried heating directly on the solder and applying heat to the tang/ guard. It just doesn’t want to flow. Any ideas?
 
90% of the time it is too much heat, or improperly applied heat. You burn the flux and the solder won't flow. The other thing that happens with too much heat is the metal oxidizes and the solder can't flow.
Some other reasons are too large a gap, wrong flux, not really clean.

Heat the area slowly and from the opposite side that you apply the solder. NEVER heat the solder directly with the flame to get it to melt. DON'T try more heat to make the solder flow. All the heat you need is enough to make it melt. With TIX that is very little heat.
You can't usually make it flow over a joint with more heat of direct flame. The best way to "draw" the solder line is with a brass or steel pick. A piece of 14-gauge piano wire or 1/8" brass round stock will work fine. File the end to a sharp point. Mount the pick in a piece of dowel as the handle. If the solder isn't flowing down the joint in a place, give it a little bit of flux, re-heat just as little as needed to see the solder is fluid, and "Draw" the point down the joint. This breaks the oxide layer and the solder flows perfectly.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
90% of the time it is too much heat, or improperly applied heat. You burn the flux and the solder won't flow. The other thing that happens with too much heat is the metal oxidizes and the solder can't flow.
Some other reasons are too large a gap, wrong flux, not really clean.

Heat the area slowly and from the opposite side that you apply the solder. NEVER heat the solder directly with the flame to get it to melt. DON'T try more heat to make the solder flow. All the heat you need is enough to make it melt. With TIX that is very little heat.
You can't usually make it flow over a joint with more heat of direct flame. The best way to "draw" the solder line is with a brass or steel pick. A piece of 14-gauge piano wire or 1/8" brass round stock will work fine. File the end to a sharp point. Mount the pick in a piece of dowel as the handle. If the solder isn't flowing down the joint in a place, give it a little bit of flux, re-heat just as little as needed to see the solder is fluid, and "Draw" the point down the joint. This breaks the oxide layer and the solder flows perfectly.
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I think when i have issues getting a good solder joint. It might be im applying heat in the wrong areas or uneven. Idk. I have had areas where the solder wants to pool up sometimes rather than flow into the joint where i want it.
 
Hold the torch further away, you only need 200 degrees (C).
Localised hot areas will lead to uneven melting and flow, you will end up chasing the flux and solder around. Consequently you end up overheating the flux and burning it in places.
Take your time, there is no rush.
once a uniform temperature is achieved over the whole area you can add as much solder as you want.
 
Way Barney has what I forgot to say - Don't apply the solder until the piece is heated up. Keep poking the solder stick at the joint until it melts. Apply the solder around the joint as it flows. Only heat just a tad more if needed to make it flow. Sometimes just after the first melting I brush on fresh flux and the solder flows instantly like water.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Way Barney has what I forgot to say - Don't apply the solder until the piece is heated up. Keep poking the solder stick at the joint until it melts. Apply the solder around the joint as it flows. Only heat just a tad more if needed to make it flow. Sometimes just after the first melting I brush on fresh flux and the solder flows instantly like water.
Click to expand...
That is a brilliant tip to add more flux when temp is reached, I must try that.
 
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