Soldier knife design

Mark Williams

Mark Williams

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Thinkin maybe something along these lines. Top and bottom both beveled to a spear point, 52100 steel. Might shorten the blade length a little. It has an 8" blade , 13" OAL as drawn.


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Well, it's big, made of strong steel, so it can both stab and work- it's good. It meets the requirements, and is handmade- it should work out quite well. Maybe 6 or 7 inch blade, but 8 would be fine. Do you forge of stock remove?
 
13" of 52100 is about as no-nonsense as you get. The handle looks very comfortable and sturdy and the lines are very nice. The shorter lengths would be real tight, too. If it was me (but let me be the first to point out that it's not) I'd make the tip a little bit pointier (pointyer?) to facillitate stabbing. But what the hell do I know?

- Chris
 
Mark,
Your design looks mighty nice and sort of reminds me of a knife I carried for a while. Mine is a .5" shorter in the blade and oal. There is also a ricasso on mine that I liked to make use of when doing fine work (though that isn't for everyone's taste). Overall, it worked fairly well but, I would have liked some stippling or light checkering on the handle. I ended up replacing it with a German field knife at about 10" oal, lighter and also a spear point.
Here's a shot of my knife:
174j8n

Regards,
Greg
 
I like that a lot. I guess a little ricasso wouldnt hurt. Most likely it will end up with a 7" blade. I think I may cast the handle with potting compound.
 
Ain't nothin' wrong with that Mark. ;) That looks like a classic combat knife design. Should work real well.
Scott
 
I like it Mark. It looks like a real work horse that I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of...... Comfy looking handle too. I do loke the ricasso idea though in case he wants to choke up for fine work. Still in the thinking process myself, but I am getting out the graph paper tomorrow.
Ed
 
Looks great, and for the name...'Hu-Rahh' :D

How about a Ricasso and a bit of flat spine for batoning?
 
Mark,I'm with the rest.Add a ricasso,and put more spine on it - at least 1/2 the way down the back.That way the blade could be pounded,as well as choked up on.A cast handle would be OK,but scales would be replaceable if damaged. Also,few casting compounds are long term durable.I'd use G-10 or carbon fiber(or plain ol' Micarta).
I like the heavy point,looks strong and durable (for digging,prying,etc.)
Stacy
 
I wish I could find some of the potting compound that we used for casting plug housings on military cables. It was extremely tough and grippy. Put a few holes in the tang for the compound to key itself into , and it would outlast the blade. I may have a look around and see what Norfolk Burlap has to play with. They have some pretty cool stuff to play with. I agree with you guys a little more ricasso and more spine it will be.
 
Lengthen the handle to about 5" Mark. Looks good!
 
Hope Mark does not mind but since this thread is about advise on a good knife design for the project, may I aslo ask advise. I 'm thinking of making a modified version of the Hurricane SCK ( http://riflestocks.tripod.com/pics34.html ). I was thinking of making the blade a little more narrow, about 1 1/2 inch wide instead of the 1 3/4 inch, and doing away with the bird beek tang end. What do ya think? I would also brown the steel. The blade is about 6 inches.

Thanks.

RL
 
Sounds good RL. The 1 1/2" blade may chop better beause the angle will steapen. MAke one and see what you think?
 
Roger: keep the bird beak as it improves the grip when pulling the knife out of something. PPerhaps even with an exposed tang end for hammering.
 
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