Soliciting canned steel advice...

Salem Straub

Salem Straub

Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
5,547
I have not yet tried to make any of the "canned" patterns. I have read about it, and I think I understand the basics well enough, but one uncertainty nags me. The billet is prepped in a SS tube or can, a little something to burn out the extra oxygen is included, (woodchip, wd40, etc,) and the top end is closed. Handle is added, etc. Do you leave a vent anywhere on the can? I know not to weld or cut on a sealed container as it could explode. So if there is no vent, how is it not dangerous to weld or heat? I believe I have read of leaving a vent before, but definitely not on a lot of tutorials I have seen.:confused:
Please and thank you.
 
If the canister is fully packed with powdered steel, and vibrated down well,and the top compressed ( use a C-clamp) on during the weld up of the top ....then the canister won't balloon up or explode. Chances are that there is a microscopic pin hole somewhere in the welds anyway. This is a lot different than throwing a can of soup in a bond fire.

The real trick is compressing the canister during the weld of the billet. It is done at welding heat and requires a power hammer or a press ( It can be done by hand, but it ain't easy). You have to compress the canister until it is at 100% density, and becomes a solid block of 2400F steel.

Try and hook up with a smith who does this type of billet, and watch one done. It will explain a lot.

Stacy
 
My welds on the ends of the can are not perfect and thus it vents through these. I also drill a very small hole in the side of the canister just to be safe. The key to a good can weld is soak time. Make sure you bring it up to temp, all the same color on the inside of the forge and can, then let it soak for at least 20minutes longer. I let it soak for 30 or longer, depending on can size, on the first heat. Total time in the forge during the first heat may be 40-60 minutes. Good luck.
 
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