Solid, reasonably-priced belt grinder?

pesky_human

pesky_human

Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
116
Everyone here has been so helpful thus far, and since it looks like I will need a belt grinder, I am wondering what the consensus is regarding a reasonably-priced belt grinder. I don't find a thread on this topic already on BF, and if I have missed it, a reply pointing out my stupidity would be welcome. :)

I understand this is a good option. The homie Bill DeShivs broke that to me this afternoon, and the specs are solid. Anyone with any experience on this machine?

Thanks in advance. ©
 
I disagree with the Grizzly choice. Yes it is under 300 bucks I think. Go on Midwest knife supply site and order the no weld plans and order all the parts from Tracy or scrounge your own. I built one about a month ago from the plans and most of Tracys' parts. It took a long Staurday morning to build. Now....I do have a drill press and a metal cutting bandsaw. That's about it though. Most of Tracys' materials comes precut and you can easily cut the others by hand. When finished it looks a bit Rube Goldbergish...but it is a solid machine that you may add components as $$ becomes available such as flat platten, rotary platten, 1/2" thru 14" wheels, etc. Try it .... you'll like it.
 
Personally I think the KMG, Bader, Dozier etc are all reasonably priced

They are pro level machines for pro level prices.

now if you looking for an entry level machine I would very much agree with the no weld grinder suggestion.

I have been using one for almost a year and other than killing a bearing it's running strong and true. That said I will be upgrading to a KMG as soon as is reasonable possible.
 
The Grizzly gets good reviews. I also think you should consider a Coote if you want a quality machine.
 
I'd pick a coote over a grizzly. I did, in fact, pick a coote over a grizzly. Cost a bit more, but really nice solid grinder

I think the no weld grinder is a great option, have the plans, haven't gotten around to making it yet.

If you really absolutely cannot afford to go with the coote, and can't do the no weld grinder for whatever reason, get a good 1x42 and save up for later.

This may be just me, but the grizzly 2x72 I used was just too fast and didn't have uite the "beef" of my coote running a slower pulley set up to a 1hp motor.
 
Coote with step pulleys and ceramic platen, great combo. Speed control is really important when you are starting. It help you make mistakes much slower. The three speed you can set up on the Coote are very good for all work. I now grind at the highes speed for stock removal but still move to the slowest for the fine grits.
 
I'm using a coote right now as well. It's nice and solid, though I guess it fails at versatility though when compared to a KMG.
 
Thanks for all the input. It's good to hear about your experiences with the Coote and the NWG. Looks like building the NWG would be a fun project in and of itself... ©
 
I have a Craftsman 2x42. It works, but the platen is horrible and it is FAST. If you are absolutely cash strapped, get one of these, but it is not ideal.
 
Yup, this question does come up fairly often. The answers here are pretty much typical of those in other threads. To my way of thinking there seems to be a few basic layers or categories that grinding fits into. Here are Some of them.

  1. Make shift and/or first stages of grinding on projects
    • Draw filing and hand sanding bars
    • Hand held angle grinders and cut off wheel (4", 4.5", 7" and/or 9")
    • Hand held belt sanders and palm sander (clamped upside down in a vise)
    • Bench top stone grinders (typically 6", .25 to .33 HP (sometimes more) often converted to scotch bite and buff wheels)
    • Small spindle sanding "bits" used in drill press for profiling tight curves and handle shaping (lateral pressure tough on drill)
    • 1x42 table top belt grinder (many makers use this for working the tight curves on handles)
    • 2x42 table top belt grinder (affordable, some basic funtionality, one fast speed)
    • 4x36 or 48" table top belt grinder (typically come with a 6" vertical disk as well, both can help with flat grinding/sanding)
  2. Entry level grinders
    • Grizzly 2x72 with 8" contact wheel and basic flat platen (vertically stacked) mounted on right spindle of motor, heavy stitched buffing wheel mounted on left spindle (comes with single high speed motor, its position often interferes with grinding)
    • Norm Coote's 2x72 has similar stack arrangement of platen vertically mounted over the contact wheel. Must provide your own motor, but can mount it further away from contact wheel using step pulleys and get 3 or 4 different speeds. (Cost about twice+ as much as Grizzly)
    • Tracy Mickley's 2x72 NWG (No-Weld-Grinder): variable speed with step pulleys, or can install VFD variable drive motor or variable drive DC motor, can make interchangible tools, thus very versitile, tools compatible with KMG (Costs vary dependent on amount of salvage and recycle incorporated, skill level of constructor, choices of motor drive and its variability, choices of tooling. Likely cost, $750-$1000)
  3. High End Grinders
    • Rob Fink's 2x72 KMG grinder, All the previously mentioned capabilities of the NWG and then some. Solid top notch construction with a large user base and variety of add on tools. Comes prefabbed. (Cost, $2000-ish)
    • Bader (I never looked that far)
    • Burr King (I never looked that far)
    • Various flat surface grinders to flat grind plate stock and blade blanks, etc
Well this isn't a comprehensive list in the least, but maybe it'll help a little. I started with files, an angle grinder, bench grinder and a hand belt sander upsidedown in a vise. Still use the files, angle and bench grinders.

I started building the NWG, but its slow as I'm scrounging just about everything. Got a 8" contact wheel from Sun Ray (less than 1/3 the cost of one from Rob Fink or Tracey Mickley), but haven't spun it up yet to see how it'll do. Also got 2" skate board wheel for the idlers and small contact wheels. Picked up a 110VAC TEFC 1.5 HP 1725 RPM reversible motor from eBay (for $150 w/ shipping) I tried jerryrigging a lathe like setup using the motor as the drive w/ step pulleys to turn the drive and tracking wheels out of wood. Just couldn't quite get the turnings perfect enough. I've asked Santa for those two wheels, we'll (couldn't resist that) see. Still have to round up a few of the square tube pieces and then I should be good to go. It will be nice when it finally comes together!

While at Indian George's I scored a bunch of equipment from Ryan Whittemore, the Grizzly grinder among them. Glad to have it. With a course belt on it, it makes a fine basic general purpose shop grinder.

My latest grinder was a gift from my Grandmother when she passed. She left a hand full of dollars to spread around. I got Norm's grinder (thanks Grammie!). I haven't set it up yet for lack of a motor. I've resisted cock-roaching the motor from the NWG setup cause I keep on holding out for that to come together. To hell with that. I'm setting up the Coote! If Santa brings me a couple of wheels for the NWG, then I'll round up another motor.

Good luck with your pursuits, Phil
 
Last edited:
not a bad analysis- I'll say that I still use my 1/2 horse bench grinder for a fair number of things, and a 1x42 grinder is something no shop should be without (I'm looking for one of the 2 wheel ones with a seperate motor right now).

The Coote... I guess it depends on what you do. It's got more versatility than the grizzly- and a few more options. I've seen them set up horizontal with a small rest that unbolts - I prefer convex to hollow grinds so mine is set up vertical. You can also hook it up to a variable speed motor. as an upgrade, instead of using pulleys (If I could run 220 out to where I grind I'd be doing that by now)
 
i say it depends where you intend to go with it.. if you see your self getting more and more into knife making... then i'd save my bucks an do as i did and get a pro level machine... so far i started out on a 1" x 30" belt ... moved up to a coote ..which i used for years... and just recently bought a bader variable speed... .. and i sort of suspected ( with alot of helpful information from the forum) the various attachments and control you have with a pro machine does help alot to speed up the process..:thumbup:

as for it being affordable.. its not really... but then what is.


G;)
 
Farmer Phil said:
Phil
Click to expand...

Phil - Thanks a lot for your thoughtful and thorough response. I have a lot of ability with various crafts, but since this is something pretty much entirely new to me, and the stakes are higher as far as safety is concerned, I am doing everything in my power to cut the learning curve and do things in a way that will produce results that are to my standards in the shortest time possible. That probably sounds terribly arrogant, but it's the only way I know how to do things. The help of the people on this forum, exemplified by what you just passed on, is the next best thing to getting hands on training with a master of your craft.

Once again, thanks to all of you. These discussions continue to inspire and inform me.

©
 
I have a Hardcore 2X72 grinder. It's a very precise machine.
When my first Grizzly fried it's motor after 10 years, I immediately ordered another. It's still the most used machine in my shop. The 1725 RPM buffer on the other side is very handy. All the 2X72 suggestions are good ones, but the Grizzly still offers the most bang for your buck.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I have a Hardcore 2X72 grinder. It's a very precise machine.
When my first Grizzly fried it's motor after 10 years, I immediately ordered another. It's still the most used machine in my shop. The 1725 RPM buffer on the other side is very handy. All the 2X72 suggestions are good ones, but the Grizzly still offers the most bang for your buck.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. I will check out the Hardcore. The stuff I am trying to do is very small and geometric, so I am thinking I can get away with something like the Grizzly in the short term. If I find myself needing something on the order of a Bader, it would be a great problem to have.

:)

©
 
Hey Pesky,

Ya I know what you mean about the folks on these forums and cutting the learning curve down. I've been doing the same thing. To think, many of these guys spent years figuring out the hard way with trial and error, investment in time and dollars to come to their methods, material selections, recipes and suppliers. They then take some more time and pass that hard earned knowledge on to us and boom....presto chango....us noobees now know more before we get started than we would ever know after years of mucking around on our own. I too just can't say enough about how GREAT it is!!!

The main draw back about the GG (griz grinder) is its FAST and the motor's in the way. If your doing small geometric pieces it may be a challenge. I know there are some folks who seperated the motor out to be able step it down and get it out of the way. About all you'd need would be four pillow block bearings, 2 shafts, four step puuleys and two belts. Everythings double because you'd do it off both spindles and be able to selectively drive with 3 or 4 different speeds both the belt and the buff.

All the best, Phil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top