Solo Wanderings on Baranof Island, SE Alaska

To me, it is evident that the SAR personel he dealt with considered him to be physically fit, experienced in wilderness travel, and capable of making sound decisions. Had they not, he would likely have been on a plane home and not allowed, much less aided, in his continuing his trip.

Well, that is my take on that part anyway. Thoughts?

Reading his trip report was the first I ever heard of a SPOT device. I think they're fascinating.

I agree that everyone did everything right, except for his mistake in how he attached the SPOT to his pack. It's good to see how the basics (file a trip plan and then stick to it) can save everyone a lot of grief in the event of a minor mishap.

Having read that trip report, the next time I take a solo trip (which I'm now resigned to the fact that when I start backpacking again it will almost certainly be solo) I intend to carry both a SPOT and a 2 meter HAM rig like this one. Redundancy is a good thing.

All of that said, I've been in Alaska before and they have a tendency to let people do whatever it is that they're going to do. I'm not at all certain that anyone on that island would have stopped him from going out again, even if he was 100lbs overweight and thought roughing it meant leaving the hair dryer at home.

I will say this: I can imagine going solo to a lot of places. But bushwhacking like that guy was doing is way beyond anything I'll ever try. In particular, his account of trekking across the glacier in thick fog gave me the heebee-jeebies.
 
...I will say this: I can imagine going solo to a lot of places. But bushwhacking like that guy was doing is way beyond anything I'll ever try. In particular, his account of trekking across the glacier in thick fog gave me the heebee-jeebies.

Me too. I have tried navigating in a whiteout, on an overcast moonless night, and where topography couldn't be matched to the map. His orienteering skills are to be envied, though not emulated (by me). ;)
 
Me too. I have tried navigating in a whiteout, on an overcast moonless night, and where topography couldn't be matched to the map. His orienteering skills are to be envied, though not emulated (by me). ;)

Yeah, I was reading that and thinking that a GPS unit would have been extremely helpful, if only to allow him to know where he was relative to his destination (given that the maps didn't match the terrain). But then I'd be relying too much on a piece of fragile equipment, which is a pretty good indication that I just shouldn't go there. :D
 
What a question to ask a lady! :D

I remember when Eisenhower was President, when Kennedy won and when he was assassinated. Chronologically, I am in my late fifties and going on seventy-five physically speaking. I have had two wives, five children, six grandchildren and do not expect to celebrate New year's eve of 2020. 2015 if I am lucky.

Ah, yes. I, too, remember Ike.:)

Don't be so quick to think you won't see 2021. I once thought I wouldn't see 2010 ... :D
 
Phenomenal story, thanks for the link Codger. Now I have to fight back the urge to run off to Alaska. It was so beautiful, pics could barely describe it, words never could. Moose
 
Ah, yes. I, too, remember Ike.:)

Don't be so quick to think you won't see 2021. I once thought I wouldn't see 2010 ... :D
I am in no hurry to shuffle off, believe me. Longevity, however is expected of you, an accomplished, respected, world famous scientist. :)

Phenomenal story, thanks for the link Codger. Now I have to fight back the urge to run off to Alaska. It was so beautiful, pics could barely describe it, words never could. Moose

Moose, we have our own versions of this right here in Tennessee if you get out and explore it. The same, but different. Mike had several sponsors for his trip (one he mentions is the maker of his collapsable wood stove). That is something I always dreamed of, to have someone else provide me with the equipment and wherewithall to make a trip like this.:cool:

I guess you all caught his error in not knowing the tide schedule? It was pretty costly, and at that he got off easy. Since most of my own "expeditions" have involved water, I learned a few tricks in dealing with unexpectedly rising water. Several of which, had he known and used them, might have negated what he went through. Do any of you set rock carns to guage water rise? Do you, when you camp near a river or stream, try to place your camp with an eye to a quick escape route? Do you sleep with your kit and tucker scattered about, or do you repack it in case you have to E&E in the middle of the night?
 
Codger, thanks for posting that. Those are some of the most phenomenal pictures I've ever seen. It was an inspiring story, to get out and do the things I've long thought about. I've yet to go for my first solo overnight trip, perhaps in the next couple of weeks I'll get out and do it. Start small ya know, Ive got a ways to go before I can start thinking about a month in Alaska ;)
 
Hey y'all, I happened to see this thread online, so I thought I'd sign up and put in a couple cents feedback. (Yes, it's my trip report... I'm actually a bit surprised to see it getting reviewed on other sites like this!)

Anyhoo, just to address one point Codger:
I guess you all caught his error in not knowing the tide schedule? It was pretty costly, and at that he got off easy.

I completely agree that I got off easy... coulda been a lot worse. But just to clarify, I did know the tide schedule... I always have a current tide chart taped on the inside of my waterproof journal for reference, and make use of it often, especially when paddling through the bays & inlets where knowing the schedule is vital for traveling with the currents. The tide was definitely low when I was cooking dinner, it was obviously going to come up that night. My mistake wasn't that I didn't anticipate a high tide, but rather just that I didn't anticipate how far it would come up the river. It was the end of a very long day (a great day, but long nonetheless) and I was very tired when making camp, hence the error judgement that I might have caught otherwise. I'd walked up the river hundreds of yards, well past the tidal flats and into the forest, and at a quick glance it looked like my riverbar of choice was well above any high-water tide marks. I just didn't give it another thought after that... my error, obviously. A mistake for sure (not one I intend to make again), but not quite in the same light as what you describe.

Anyhoo, I'm glad you enjoyed the report, I very-much enjoyed putting it together. And thanks for the feedback folks, it's always a healthy thing to read other folks' honest opinions of such things. It's food for thought for me. (And just 'cause I'm reading it, don't be afraid to give your honest opinion in the thread if you have one to share.) It's nice to meet y'all, and all the best,

- Mike (at RainForestTreks)
 
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Hey GoBlue, glad you stopped by.

I hope you don't think we were criticizing you excessively. Mostly, we were just trying to learn from your mistakes.

I, for one, am extremely impressed that you took that trip. It's the stuff of dreams for a lot of people around here. That you came through it with only a few relatively minor mishaps is indeed impressive. Had I tried it, SAR would probably have had to come haul my sorry butt out of the bush in just a couple of days. ;)
 
I hope you don't think we were criticizing you excessively. Mostly, we were just trying to learn from your mistakes.

Bulgron, I don't think that at all. I thought for a second about taking offense to Codger's remark about being "careless" about how I secured the SPOT unit, but then thought again... and he's right, careless is a fairly good word for it. I thought I had it securely fastened (it didn't just clip it on there haphazardly, I had it strapped down *tightly* with its own webbing clip), but I could've been more obsessive & redundant about securing it. I definitely should have been, in retrospect. Not taking the care to do that caused the unit to come off *somewhere* in the really thick brush, so yeah, careless (or at least, "not careful enough") is probably the adjective of choice. I don't mind admitting when I made a bona-fide mistake, that was definitely an example.

On a side note (a useful tidbit for anyone who wants to use a SPOT, I didn't learn this until the second leg of the trip), a SPOT unit can actually work just fine inside the pack as well. If you put it in the top pocket, so that the only thing separating it from the sky is a single layer of pack nylon, it can still transmit just fine to satellites. I previously thought it needed a "clear" view of the sky (the box even says so). But I used it inside the pack for the second leg, and it relayed messages just fine. Live & Learn. Those who say they might use such a unit themselves, keep that in mind.

Anyhoo, thanks for checking in, and no, I'm not offended at all by the comments posted. I appreciate the honesty.

- Mike
 
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And by the way, in case anyone here who read the report is curious about details of the lost SPOT device and the subsequent SAR Mission afterward, here is a scan of the article in the local Sitka paper about it. They overstate a couple of the details (as papers are apt to do after only one quick interview for the story), but pretty much did a good job of describing the situation. It might be interesting to anyone wanting to know details.

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Hi Mike!

Welcome to the site and the Wilderness Skills and Survival forum. If you have read the thread (and my posts) to this point, you know how envious I am of your adventure. What I may not have said is how much I thank you for your honest reporting of your trip, both triumphs and mistakes.

Losing the SPOT, in my opinion, could have just as easily happened by a pack pocket being ripped, or a thorough dousing in a stream, perhaps even an unexpected heavy impact. How you had it secured when it came off wasn't the point I was trying to make at all and I apologize if it came out that way.

I was born before computers and... I remember when the first satellites went up and they were not ours! I've never used a locator beacon at all, but we have discussed them here from time to time. Unfortunately, the subject comes up most often when there is news of people abusing their use (false "help"s), or when a tragedy occurs. I think they are a good thing when carried and used correctly by a competent hiker such as yourself. When your signal failed to move, it could just as easily have been because you had become incapacitated.

As to the tide tables, one of our members mentioned GPS, and we know you had maps. Would the combination have allowed you to predict how far up the river the tide would/could rise? I completely understand the fatigue factor. Over the years I have put myself in tight predicaments in exactly that way, more than once. I've never had to deal with tides though, but with unexpected water rise, yes. I once allowed myself to be cut off from retreat when I failed to note that my gravel bar, though a decent elevation, was actually an island with only a few feet of rise. Which did happen when a localized rainstorm drenched the top end of the watershed many miles away.

Mike, I am sure you agree that it is always easier/better to learn from someone Else's errors than from our own. Thank you for your honesty in the original TR and in your posts here. You could easily have omitted those few details, and not many would have been the wiser. In more ways than one!

Now about the stove? Was it less hassle than carrying a tiny gas stove? Did it hold up well and do you plan to keep using it instead of a gas stove? I know that finding dry fuel was sometimes a challenge in those environments, but you mentioned having the forethought to gather and store fuel as you found it, rather than wait until you needed it and hoping it could be found. We quite often discuss firestarting methods here. Would you care to tell us what type of tender you used to get teh stove going? Used a Bic lighter to ignite the tender? Carry a spare? Any accelerants like wax or petroleum jelly?

Again, thank you for stopping by. I believe a couple of the members/instructors here are regular contributors to Backpacking Magazine, and a few of us are subscribers and I, at least, am a lurker on the forum there.

Michael :thumbup:

ETA: We would be very interested in your equipment choices in general if you would care to discuss it.
 
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As to the tide tables, one of our members mentioned GPS, and we know you had maps. Would the combination have allowed you to predict how far up the river the tide would/could rise? I completely understand the fatigue factor...
The addition of a GPS might have helped save me a couple hours on the glacier, but it wouldn't have really helped me with the tides. The altimetry on those sensors isn't accurate enough to really specify whether you're in danger of a flooding tide, and the maps aren't detailed enough to tell you that either (63K, 1inch=1mile resolution, 100' contours). I just should've paid more attention to how high my gravel bar was compared to the far-off tidal flats further out. Apparently, it wasn't that high (which is easy to midjudge, when the tide differences reach 16-20' or more between low & hi tides, you can be 2 stories above the low tide mark and still not be safe even if everything around you looks otherwise). Anyhoo, I used to carry a dedicated GPS, but it failed me on a trip several years back (in Russell Fjord, outside Yakutat Alaska) on day 9 of 17, and I realized I didn't need it to navigate for the rest of the trip. Haven't carried one since. I'm a fan of not over-relying on technology whenever possible. It's handy at times, but a reliance on it will hurt when it eventually fails (that's when it fails, not if). There are very few trips where I feel the "need" to carry a GPS anymore. There's one I'm planning (down the pipeline) where it'll be a necessity, but not this kind of trip in SE Alaska.

Now about the stove? Was it less hassle than carrying a tiny gas stove? Did it hold up well and do you plan to keep using it instead of a gas stove? I know that finding dry fuel was sometimes a challenge in those environments, but you mentioned having the forethought to gather and store fuel as you found it, rather than wait until you needed it and hoping it could be found. We quite often discuss firestarting methods here. Would you care to tell us what type of tender you used to get teh stove going? Used a Bic lighter to ignite the tender? Carry a spare? Any accelerants like wax or petroleum jelly?
The wood stove was primarily a weight-saving measure. I own several gas canister stoves (JetBoil sponsored us with free stoves last year on a trek in British Columbia for instance; the stove still sits in my gear closet), and although they are simple to use and fairly efficient, for a trip of this length I'd still need to carry 1-2 pounds of fuel, plus the stove. Even if it's sometimes difficult to find dry wood (I got better at it by trip's end), I never had to worry about running out of fuel, or carrying it for the whole trip. No moving parts, no pressurized canisters, nothing to break or fail. If you can light a fire, you can cook dinner... I like the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) mentality of it. I can boil as much water as I like without worrying about over-using fuel. Trade-off, of course, is that you've gotta light fires, which was definitely tricky at the start of the trip. I often used a bit of paper (torn from a blank page in my journal) and some used plastic baggie atop it, which made an adequate fire starter. A dedicated firestarter like wax, for instance, would've worked very well too, I just didn't bring those.

Anyway, I definitely plan to keep using the wood stove on these trips... next time I predict I won't have nearly the trouble I did this time at the start of the trip. I just needed to brush up on my "bush" skills in that regard.

ETA: We would be very interested in your equipment choices in general if you would care to discuss it.

I don't mind discussing it at all... when I get a gear list posted on the website (a "to do" item, life is busy for me at the moment), I'll shoot a post over here if anyone's interested. I made a lot of efforts to carry lightweight functional gear this trip, which helped tremendously in my navigability... some of the "big" days scrambling I wouldn't have been able to pull off with an additional 20 lbs on my back. Anyway, that's not a high priority for me right now, but hopefully soon I can share that in detail.

All the best,

- Mike
 
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A mechanical device such as a safety on a gun can and will fail.

I agree, even with an item so simple as a compass. Being able to navigate without any GPS, compass etc. is a valuable skill. The same goes for making fire, shelter, purifying water, obtaining some food, in my opinion. Skills trump gadgets. Not that gadgets are bad, mind you. It is just my philosophy that anything you can own and carry can break, get lost or stolen, or otherwise fail. Worse yet is, as you mentioned, when it fails and you have become overly dependant on it.

You mention that you do not (or at least did not on this trip) carry a fire starting accelerant. Was that because of weight savings, or just because you didn't feel it was needed? I almost always carry a small bar of trioxane or wax impregnated firestarter stick (each under an ounce). Some here carry a small piece of fatwood, or soda straws stuffed with petroleum jelly saturated cotton balls, even when we are not practicing spark or friction firestarting (Bic lighters rule.). If you were to remake this same trip again, would you carry something specific like this? Or was it just a total non-issue for you?

What was your total pack weight at the beginning of the first leg of your journey? From what I saw in the pictures, it didn't look like you were trying to be especially "microlight", but I didn't see a lot of luxuries either. I understood why you carried the raft (oooff!) and it seemed to work well for you. Did you look for any lighter weight alternatives, or was that it?
 
You mention that you do not (or at least did not on this trip) carry a fire starting accelerant. Was that because of weight savings, or just because you didn't feel it was needed? I almost always carry a small bar of trioxane or wax impregnated firestarter stick (each under an ounce). Some here carry a small piece of fatwood, or soda straws stuffed with petroleum jelly saturated cotton balls, even when we are not practicing spark or friction firestarting (Bic lighters rule.). If you were to remake this same trip again, would you carry something specific like this? Or was it just a total non-issue for you?
Honestly? I forgot to pick up accelerants (fire-starters) at the hardware store in town before heading out, so I did without. :p I usually wouldn't pack something like that for the plane ride (although wax is benign enough), I pick it up locally. The wet wood gave me some flack the start of the trip, but after I got the hang of it, it wasn't so bad. When I went to resupply for the second leg, I didn't feel I needed to bother. I DID carry some backup alcohol (with a little pepsi-can burner) that I occasionally dribbled a few drops over the little fire to make it easy to light with a Bic, and that helped, although it doesn't burn as hot or as long as (say) wax, but it still worked tolerably well.

In the future I'll probably bring some small accelerant. I like the "wax in a drinking straw" idea, that's a good one. :thumbup: Simple, lightweight, non-bulky, and effective.

What was your total pack weight at the beginning of the first leg of your journey? From what I saw in the pictures, it didn't look like you were trying to be especially "microlight", but I didn't see a lot of luxuries either. I understood why you carried the raft (oooff!) and it seemed to work well for you. Did you look for any lighter weight alternatives, or was that it?

Unfortunately I didn't get an official "total" packweight right before hopping on the boat to head out, but (with 10 days' food packed) I was looking at 45-50#. About 18 lbs food, ~20-22 lbs total "base" gear (which isn't much) and the whole packrafting setup is around 7-8 lbs (raft, paddle, and PFD together). The raft is only 5 pounds, not as heavy as you might presume. So yeah, 45-50 is about right. Not featherweight, but pretty light considering the terrain and the duration. It was heavier the second leg (prolly 55-60#), with a few extra days' food and ice axe & crampons along, plus the VHF radio I didn't have along the first leg.

There are a *couple* other companies that make similar rafts for a bit lighter and much cheaper, but they're typically rubber (think "pool-toy") and I could not (would never) trust them for such a trip. Those Alpacka Rafts are the only brand out there I'd trust right now, and I've looked. I have a good relationship with the folks at Alpacka. Very tough materials... I've floated plenty of rocky class 3 rapids near my home in Boulder. http://www.alpackaraft.com/

It's easy for me to go with a sub-20-lb pack for short weekend trips, but for longer trips the food (and a pack with the suspension to carry it well) adds up quickly. Plus the extra need for durability, and self-reliance, tacks on a few items. I've packed up to 21 days' food at a time... I'm convinced I get get out for 24 days' or so and make it work, although that's kinda pushing the viable weight limits (looking at 75-80# then, the majority of it food alone). I've done 75# before, so it's doable, and it's only that heavy 'till I eat my first snack. ;)
 
Many thanks to Codger for providing the link and doing an excellent job of facilitating the dialog with GoBlue. And GoBlue, thanks for joining us and adding more perspective and information. What a fantastic trip! I haven't finished reading your trip report yet because I wanted to get back here and thank Codger for bringing this to us. Obviously it was a nice surprise to see the "reporter" was here too. Thanks to you both.
 
What a great trip...:thumbup:

Thanks for the link, Codger, and it's great to meet you here, GoBlue.
 
Stickman, I was as surprised as anyone with Mike's appearance here, but it pleases me greatly.

Mike, you mentioned your trip in 2007 to the Russell Fjord, Alaska (16 days, Russell Fjord to Hubbard Glacier, return via the Situk River, thence to Yakutak), and I note that several of your expeditions include a packraft. I am surprised by the light weight and obvious durability of the raft, especially for such a diminuative weight (the raft, not you and your gear)!!:) Is this the same raft you used at Prince Royal Island and the upper Queets Canyon? Or does one major expedition usually spell the need for replacement?

Oh! And another gear question... one near and dear to my heart... do you have wilderness medicine training and use a specific first aid kit, or just use experience, common sense and a kit you built for yourself specific for you own needs?

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And on another equipment related topic (this is a knife site afterall! :D), what type of knife do you prefer for these treks, and do you "double-up", carrying a spare in case your primary knife is lost or broken?


Oh, and lest I forget, here is Mike's P.S. from Rainforest Treks:

Disclaimer: My trip reports are not meant to be a "How-To" guide. Please, under any circumstances, don't try most the crap I've done. Read my reports, chuckle at my musings if you like, but whatever you do, don't think to yourself "hey, that sounds like a great idea!" Seriously, if I've done it, it's probably not. I accept no responsibility if you get yourself into the kind of trouble that I've found myself in over the years. Be careful out there, use your head, and above all else, come home safely.

Who are his trip sponsors? LOL! Well, I note that among them has been Hormel. WHO?

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For those who have finished reading gobluehiker's TR I originally posted, there are a few more expeditions such as that one posted on the site Rainforest Treks. The photos, as with the first TR and the one of Hubbard Glacier posted above, are astounding.
 
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Codger, et al:

Over on the Rainforest Treks website, Mike has a link to his (partial) equipment list. There he lists a Swiss Army Classic knife and a Spyderco Delica 4 as his cutlery of choice for his trek.

Ron
 
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