Solution for anti rust and oxidation business

P

pk977

Joined
Dec 2, 2012
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CubeLW

TRy using it!

Silicone Spray by M Essentials™ Maybe we can dive with the khukuri

Lubricate sensitive rubber parts and protect neoprene dive equipment from salt, corrosion and oxidation, with M Essentials Silicone Spray /WD 40

After apply on it the blade. I can't feel it is too oil like WD40. It is transparent and also fit for food grade silicone that is all I need. As someone apply USP mineral oil as an alternative method I believe it work also.

What I'm consider is based on "Food Grade" "anti-corrosion" "cost effective" "easy to apply"

I hope this is one of the best solution. Looking for your test result and report
 
Guys here have a lot of great suggestion for rust protection. Search for it.

I'm with you with food grade silicone. The only drawback is that it doesn't last very long.
 
A. G. Russell company sells a product called "Rust Free". It's a pretty thick liquid silicone "wax", and it comes in a squeeze bottle. You put a drop or two on one side of the dry blade (or your finger), and then work it all around with a fingertip to cover the entire side of the blade with a thin layer. Then you do the other side the same. It drys to a finish that doesn't attract dust, but protects from rust. I've used this product for a long time, and it's worked very well for me. I have no connection to the company, other than as a satisfied customer. YMMV
 
i'm old fashioned. i use ballistol. food grade/mineral oil based. multi-purpose.
 
Butcher Block oil with wax...Howard or John Taylor...food grade mineral oil and the wax helps it last.
 
Lanolin sticks like poo and smells nice. Using it on all my Kuks. Never runs off like oil from polished blades. And doesnt rub off when inserting the blades into tight sheaths.
Rust protection is excellent and one of Lanolin's known uses.
Since its sheep fat and organic, I'm more confident in its edibility than mineral oil. But then mineral oil is even found in some kids snacks, so it's just me being paranoid.
Lanolin is also good against cracked heels, wound baby butts and much more.
 
don't forget how good lanolin is for the leather ( sheaths, not just human leathers like feet and butts, but sarki crafts as well):D
 
LPS3 is spray on and dries into a waxy coating. It was recommended to me by my gunsmith and it works well. Just wipe the metal down with alcohol, when dry spray on the LPS3.
 
Just any lanolin? Do you use lotion, pure lanolin or something else. This sounds good, especially if I can use it on the sheath too.
 
pk: most auto parts stores have it. Great on motorcycle and bicycle chains between cleaning.
pk977 said:
cooper669, please shows us the product web link.
Click to expand...
I use Chapstick since its always in my pocket and close to my EDC. Apply to lips, kiss both sides of your beloved HI and rub it around!
 
ndoghouse,
Are you freaking serious apply Chapstick to the blade. Do I need to carry candle in my pocket. I can use it as a light resource and apply on the blade for anti-rust. I can understand chemistry. However, we should find out any possible solution instead of WD40.....
 
No joke! My Bawanna Bowie likes it! Its petroleum distillate with wax. Many many possibilities!
pk977 said:
ndoghouse,
Are you freaking serious apply Chapstick to the blade. Do I need to carry candle in my pocket. I can use it as a light resource and apply on the blade for anti-rust. I can understand chemistry. However, we should find out any possible solution instead of WD40.....
Click to expand...
 
For my historical Kuks and some HI which I don't plan to use for a while I use renaissance wax. Doesn't show and supposedly protects very well without altering any material like leather, wood, steel, brass etc. Non acidic and all the good stuff. They use it in museums to preserve artifacts.

It actually smells like some of the colorless shoe polishes in a tin. The price is about the same too, so no need to experiment with shoe polish as a substitute.
:-p
 
After cleaning, I like to use a product called Barricade by Birchwood Casey. It's sold as a rust preventative for firearms but works on anything metal and comes in both an aerosol can and a box of 25 little pouches with a presoaked disposable cloth in each. The aerosol form is good at the house/shop and seems to go a little farther per can, but the disposable cloths are good for putting in a pack/bag for use in the field. I don't know about using it on knives that will be cutting food (I know I don't want to eat it), but it has been working for me without attracting a lot of dust to the blades.

I have noticed that when I use the pouch wipes on a polished blade, the film it leaves has a sort of "rainbow" appearance in the right light. It looks kinda cool, but don't worry, it is not staining the metal.

The weird thing is, after it dries, it smells a little bit like baby powder. Mention this out loud in front of other people while sniffing a knife tends to get a few weird looks out of them.
 
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