some batoning with the Zubeng bowie

Cliff Stamp

BANNED
Joined
Oct 5, 1998
Messages
17,562
The edge on this is convex at 0.073"/10:0.025"/15 degrees. To start clear wood which was soft.



Small knot in the end :



Full of small knots which were cut directly, you an see them clearly towards the end.



That is a much more dense piece of wood, that's about as hard as I impact knives in general.



-Cliff
 
I could not get into the site to look, what are the prices and all supposed to be? All I get is this macromedia BS, no actual knive.
 
No matter how much I agree with Cliff, I have to say pretty darn cool video.
 
How would you characterize the wood with respect to what you would want or be able to split with such a knife? It looked like it required a bit of an effort, but it doesn't sound like the extreme knots you have talked about.
 
When you struck near the handle, is that the type of technique you suggest for batoning with folders? I'd like to try that with an Opinel but it seems like the baton would need to be narrow to work with the space requirements.
 
That knife reminds me a lot of my Basic 9.
What kind of wood is that? Seemed really hard to split. 'Course when using a baton, I tend to be a lot more...vicious:D
Are you not pushing down on the handle with your left hand at all?
 
That knife reminds me a lot of my Basic 9.
What kind of wood is that? Seemed really hard to split. 'Course when using a baton, I tend to be a lot more...vicious:D
Are you not pushing down on the handle with your left hand at all?

funny you mention that, because that is how I baton. I put a lot of force with my grip hand so I don't have to baton on both sides, but it does not work all the time.


Throwing knives into hard wood and batoning knives into wood is a good way to find their weakness. If there are any defective material or construction you will know soon and hopefully you won't cut your self in the process. I have had knives snap at the ricaso area or at the handle juncture and flip back up at me. I once had a knife snap on a throw as it hit the wood at an angle.
 
I wouldn't call what I use a "lot" of force most of the time, but I guess that's relative.
Enough that the handle doesn't move in any direction I don't want it to...
Personally, I don't think I've ever damaged a fixed blade knife batoning(even a AGR Deerhunter), except for knocking a chunk out of the spine on my Basic 9 from a bad hit with a 48oz. engineer's hammer.


'Course I wasn't hitting the Deerhunter with a hammer:foot:
 
I put a lot of force with my grip hand ...

Normally so do I, but the wood was just spiking into the ground as it was pointed on both edges. That is why I placed a board under it, but it slipped readily on that. Decent hard packed ground would have been ideal.

What kind of wood is that?

The pieces that cracked apart were pine, the piece on the end was spruce.

... when using a baton, I tend to be a lot more...vicious

At the end those were fairly heavy impacts, similar in class to heavy framing hammer impacts (calibrated) but on camera, had I not done them, I would say they look medium at best.

So what do you think of that knife so far?

The steel seems solid so far, I am interested in how it will do in edge retention against the Ratweiler when both are at similar edge angles and I'll check that soon. Overall the design is clean and solid though I would prefer if the flat grind came down further so the edge was 0.035" or so and the balance points were shifted further out on the blade.

When you struck near the handle, is that the type of technique you suggest for batoning with folders?

Yes, it doesn't load the lock. The above videos don't in general illustrate proper technique, in fact there are a few times where there are things done which really are very poor form. I was mainly just checking to see the quality and lengths of the video and what they actually looked like.

I'd like to try that with an Opinel but it seems like the baton would need to be narrow to work with the space requirements.

Use a holder block over the blade.

How would you characterize the wood with respect to what you would want or be able to split with such a knife? It looked like it required a bit of an effort, but it doesn't sound like the extreme knots you have talked about.

The first few bits were very easy, I would split all of them with folders assuming they had the length. The last round was medium/hard, but the knife still made significant progress with each impact. I'll do some hard knots later and show the difference because a piece of cross knotted pine is worse than clear spruce. It can be so bad that it takes literally a dozen impacts to move an inch through a knot.

-Cliff
 
Ah. Looking back at the videos, I see what you mean about the pointed ends hopping around.
 
very cool, did they tell you what steel the knife is. I could not get a straight answer from the guy at Blade. Of course, the language barrier was difficult. He was nice though and definitely was high on his knife. The Video I have shows them slicing a lot of hemp with that blade. I think we talked about that 3 months ago or so.
 
I am pretty sure it is a folded steel like damascus, but not nearly as many layers. I saw the knife in person and it sure looked folded.
 
Adding video to your reviews and posts is an excellent idea. Thank you.

It shows things, such as strength, skill level, dislays of force used, wood types, and many other things that are not easily described or detailed in written form.

As well, for people like me that don't read or write well, it is a better medium of communication.
 
I am pretty sure it is a folded steel like damascus, but not nearly as many layers. I saw the knife in person and it sure looked folded.

It is a forged blade which is folded, specifically cross forged so the billets are rotated 90 degress.

It shows things, such as strength, skill level, dislays of force used, wood types, and many other things that are not easily described or detailed in written form.

Yes, having friends with expensive toys comes in handy. Doing a comparison for a blade in spruce vs pine would show a few things which are not well presented in written form such as fluidity, noting 15 s vs 95 s isn't nearly as informative as watching one wood basically fall apart under the knife and another bind onto it like glue.

-Cliff
 
I guess it is not damascus or laminated. It is just folded for more strength. Interesting. How much did the blade cost if you do not mind stating



"Mr. Chen Rong Lang from Taiwan is bringing back the long lost cross forging technique. Cross Forging is to repeatedly bifold then cross and tri-fold a piece of carbon steel 13 times, resulting n a layered steel.

The forged steel is then heat treated to an Rc=67 edge and a softer spine. While the hard edge provides superb edge holding capability, the layered structure keeps it from being brittle, and the softer spine absorbs impact, thus keeps the blade from bending.

Cross-forged hunting knife slices paper smoothly, even after chopping 1" and 3/4" hemp rope over 13,000 times."
 
Back
Top