some bow drill questions

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Mar 22, 2006
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Well I was closer than ever to getting a bowdrill fire going yesterday, I actually got an ember..but the wind was sick and was blowing my tinder everywhere..and that coal was oh so tiny....I was wondering if you can use the same hole several times or do you need to start a new one before each fire, also should you scrape the surface of the hole, and the spindle after each attempt? it would seem the frinction smoothe the both out and reduces friction...Thanks.
 
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Try dropping a LITTLE clean fine sand in it to increase the friction.--Good luck.--
 
Well I was closer than ever to getting a bowdrill fire going yesterday, I actually got an ember..but the wind was sick and was blowing my tinder everywhere..and that coal was oh so tiny....I was wondering if you can use the same hole several times or do you need to start a new one before each fire, also should you scrape the surface of the hole, and the spindle after each attempt? it would seem the frinction smoothe the both out and reduces friction...Thanks.

Congratulations, Mr. Fire Making Riley. Getting your first coal is a major deal. It is, certainly, #1 highlight of this thing we do. (That make sense? I just got up.)

First of all, in reference to your 'tiny' coal, use a 'coal enhancer' such as True Tinder fungus (Inonotus obliquus), False Tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius) or plain old punky wood. (Note, not all punky wood works, you have to experiment). This allows you to increase the size of your coal and also makes it less fragile. If you drop your coal while transferring it to the tinder bundle, it will probably fall apart - the enhancers won't. (This is assuming you're not placing your tinder bundle under the hearth.)

You're correct in regards to reducing friction with a previously used hole and drill. A lot of survival books advise you to carve off the end of the drill to get to fresh wood. The problem with doing this is you are usually left with a bunch of small facets on the drill. These facets have to be worn off before the friction maximizes. Rather use a piece of rough stone, sandstone is ideal, but just about anything will work, and 'sand' off the burnt surface while closely maintaining the original shape of the drill tip. Do the same with the hearth.

As far as using sand, as kvaughan suggests, I've tried that a few times but found that the drill pushes the sand out before it does any real good. That's just my experience, though. Certainly worth trying.

The foregoing, not withstanding, and depending on the type of wood you're using, a lot of times you can 'burn' your way through the burnt surfaces but you have to put a bit of beef into it. This is faster than 'sanding' off the surfaces.

If there is enough board thickness left, you can reuse that hole, but before starting again, widen the top of the hole so your drill does not 'socket'. What I mean by this is, as the drill works its way through the board, more and more of the side of the drill is rubbing on the hearth, therefore dissipating the friction you are creating, over a larger area. The result is you have to work much harder to get the coal, if you get it at all.

I think this answers your questions. I'll check back after work when I'm more wide awake. :D

Doc
 
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Good stuff Doc. Yeah anytime the drill face or the socket start to get shiny, or make a loud squeaky noise, you need to grind that off. Keep going and you will get it!
 
Here is one that has intrigued me for some time:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdXMZOLowzQ

Check this guy out. Why does he put a little shaving under the fireboard? Is it just to carry the ember to the nest? Or does he know something I don't?

Also - what is up with the HUGE peice of wood on the end of this guys hand drill - is this to replace the tip?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmwhiVjt-rk&feature=related

TF


Hey TF,

I didn't watch the videos (take too long to download) but you put what some people call a 'fire pan' under the notch of the board that allows you to transfer the coal to the tinder bundle. It also protects the coal from moisture in the ground.

I'm guessing that the 'huge piece' you're referring to is on the bottom of the drill. A common thing to do with a hand drill is to splice a piece of optimal (for friction fire) material on the end of a less than optimal drill material. This accomplishes a couple of things.

1. You only have to carry short pieces of drill material with you rather than trying to cram a long drill in your pack. Also much easier to carry half a dozen ends for splicing, than a half dozen full length drills.

2. Perhaps the only material you find suitable for the drill is too short or too crooked to be used in it's entirety so you splice it on the end of some other material. Problem solved.

Doc
 
Hey DOC!

It worked - I hath built FIRE!!!!!!

The suggestions from everyone on the board were great. I needed to adjust the notch on my board - slow down - more pressure - and keep TRYING!

I am the fire MASTER!



or at least I smell like cedar smoke now. ;)

TF
 
Doc, I just got home from work and read the posts, Thanks Alot, Thats awesomeadvice and very informative...I'm going to commit that response to memory, and using it I will not quit till I am the fire master..Experienced and friendly individuals like yourself are one of the main reasons I keep coming back here, Thanks doc, and thanks everyone else.
 
Hey DOC!

It worked - I hath built FIRE!!!!!!

The suggestions from everyone on the board were great. I needed to adjust the notch on my board - slow down - more pressure - and keep TRYING!

I am the fire MASTER!



or at least I smell like cedar smoke now. ;)

TF

Congratulations, Firefuchre! A word of caution, one of the things that defeat would-be fire makers is the mantra of lots of pressure. Yes, you need downward pressure on the hearth but too much does three things. One, you tire out a lot faster because you have to work harder due to the increased drag.

Two, this increased drag has a tendency to slow down the drill oscillations, again, making it harder to achieve ignition (ignition here, of course, is not flames, but a glowing ember)

Three, the more pressure (after a point) the coarser the grindings are. The coarser the grindings, the higher the ignition temperature.

For the most part, I find that the required pressure to keep the drill from popping out of the headpiece/hearth, plus maybe just a little bit more, is just about all that is needed.

Experience will be your best guide. Once again, congratulations. Now go do it again! I also should warn you that you probably will get skunked from time to time, but now you know you can do it, and that's more than half the battle.

Doc
 
Doc,

Yeah - I should have been more clear. I, personally, needed more pressure because I was getting dust and not more substantial shavings. I think shavings is the most reasonable definition of what I was looking for.

Thanks,

FF (formerly TF) ;)
 
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