Some Designs...Need Some Critiques...Updated

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Broomhead

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Jan 12, 2012
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Here are four designs that I drew up. All are 1.25" wide and will be .125" thick, because that's what I've ordered from Aldo. I drew in a scale for each knife as well, to make things easier.

knifedesigns.jpg


I'm a big boy, hit me with it. I do plan on cutting these out of cardboard before I make them; paint sticks aren't 1.25" wide. I'm always at a loss when it comes to the shape of the butt. If you have any critiques about the shape, can you try and explain how to change it?
 
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Broomhead said:
I'm always at a loss when it comes to the shape of the butt.
Click to expand...


me and you both brother.....along with the other 3.5 billion men on this planet LOL


I think if you stretched the bottom one out to 8" would help, the other three look fine to me


3/4 inch pine is a good way to practice shaping knives
 
I think #4 needs to have just a slightly longer blade. And then move the top thumb nook more towards the front of the blade.

#3 needs to have the handle straightened out.

#2 needs to have the handle straightened out, alot, make it almost like a chef knife.

#1 a smidge less drop point, and a little deeper index finger nook, the handle is fine.

This is all just my personal preference.... A butt gives you something to grab on to when it gets rough, but for day to day stuff, too big of a butt just gets in the way of all the action...
 
When cutting out of cardboard, make the handles as thick as planned.
They'll feel all different with thicker handles
 
I like 2 and 4 the best. Often new makers make their handles very blocky. Try avoid doing that when you finish these. Next to that, I think new makers also make a lot of their knives with handles that are too big. I know I still struggle with this at times. 1.25 wide handles on 2 and 4 may make them feel awkward and uncomfortable. Just because you have 1.25" wide bar stock doesn't mean you have to make all your knives 1.25 wide!

Another affliction that Newbs (as well as some experienced makers) contract is that they make their knives all squared off and blocky looking. It does appear that you've overcome that. I like the curves on your knives. I've always believed that a knife should be like a lady...have a few curves and not be too "blocky"!
 
#1 is a good general knife. I like it.
#2 is also a good blade shape. It could use a little drop to the butt and less rounding there.
#3 is a wharnie....and has too much drop in the handle.
#4 is not looking right to me. Try taking #3's handle and putting it on that blade. Loose the dip in the spine,too.


To my eye, the best knife would be #2 blade with the butt shaped more like #1 or #3 handle. Try that combo, and see what looks/feels right.
Another good choice would be #3 blade with #1 handle.
 
I like number four best myself, but as long as they are all pretty functional, and they seem to be, you could make them all, get experience making, and figure out what you like.
 
Middle two seem to be fine, just the way they are. #1 needs a bit more handle, while #4 needs a bit more blade. As for handle shape? Make them hand friendly.
 
bladsmth said:
#1 is a good general knife. I like it.
#2 is also a good blade shape. It could use a little drop to the butt and less rounding there.
#3 is a wharnie....and has too much drop in the handle.
#4 is not looking right to me. Try taking #3's handle and putting it on that blade. Loose the dip in the spine,too.


To my eye, the best knife would be #2 blade with the butt shaped more like #1 or #3 handle. Try that combo, and see what looks/feels right.
Another good choice would be #3 blade with #1 handle.
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I happen to agree with ^ It really matches my views. For more general handle shaping thoughts, look at knives you like the feel of in your hand, make them like that. There's a reason why most knives have certain handle shapes and there is little new and different out there... Handles and hands have been in use for centuries, its pretty much been all tried before and the best ones keep showing up. :) Stick with tried and true.
 
Some updated designs based off the awesome 1084 that Mr Stacy Apelt, Bladsmth, sent me. I like #3 the best and will probably cut a mockup of it. It will probably be the next one cut. Number 1 is meant to be a smaller EDC style.

designs2JPG.jpg
 
#1 and #2 will be great knives. The others are OK,too, but are a bit off in the blade shape.

On #2, I would suggest making the ridge line as drawn on #4. It will not end up all the way to the tip as drawn anyway when you make the knife :)

Here is a tip on how to get the look you drew:
Flatten the blade blank on both sides.
Taper the blade for the distal taper evenly on both sides. Make it thicker than the desired taper...you are still going to be taking more metal off. If you want it to taper to .050 at the tip, make it .070 for now.
File/grind in the bevels all the way to the spine. This will probably drop the taper a bit,too. Sand them to 120 grit.
Go to the tang and ricasso and flat sand/file those areas together. As you get the tang and ricasso flat, the ridge line along the spine will start walking out. Stop when it is at the amount you like. If needed, sand/file the ridge a little more to widen/lengthen it over the bevels. Go slow and use a hard flat backing for the sandpaper.

Take the sanding up to 220 or even 400. Repeating the order above - bevels, tang/ricasso, touch up ridge.

At this point the blade is probably ready for HT. It should be almost the desired amount of taper,too. After HT , go back to 220 grit, and repeat these steps to get the blade cleaned up ( and remove decarb). After the final sanding, the blade should come in at just the desired amount of taper and bevel height....with a crisp ridge line. Also, the tang and ricasso will be dead flat to each other, so the scales will sit flat without gaps.
 
Stacy, Thank you for the advice and your opinion. I really value both. I redrew the ridge line on #2 like you suggested and I like the way it looks. I also changed it to a two pin handle rather than the three I had.

I have decided that #2 will be the one I do next. I just need to put my dad's band saw together so I can cut it out of wood easier. A handheld jigsaw just doesn't cut it for me, though it'll work in a pinch.

I also came up with this one, it has a fully curved spine rather than a straight one.
squawsach2.jpg
 
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Great start, and nice evolution. Agreed, a 1.5" tall handle can be big.

Broomhead said:
I also came up with this one, it has a fully curved spine rather than a straight one.
Click to expand...

Well, you know I'm gonna like THAT one. :D
That could be right outta my own notebook.
Full spine curves are lurvley, IMO. It's more important to get the shape right to your eyes and hand than to use every square inch of the steel you've got.

-Daizee
 
daizee said:
Great start, and nice evolution. Agreed, a 1.5" tall handle can be big.



Well, you know I'm gonna like THAT one. :D
That could be right outta my own notebook.
Full spine curves are lurvley, IMO. It's more important to get the shape right to your eyes and hand than to use every square inch of the steel you've got.

-Daizee
Click to expand...

Thank you for the compliments.

I want to thank everyone for taking the time to critique my work. Y'all really opened my eyes.
 
Looking good man. I'm just starting too. The design process is tough. Trying to be unique when it seems like everything has been done is frustrating. Then I realize I really like the most simple designs and the craftsmanship is what sets them apart.
 
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