Some edge rolling with the Sharpmaker

T

TFin04

Joined
Aug 21, 2005
Messages
1,494
Anybody experienced this before? I have a sharpmaker that is about three years old and has been used extensively to sharpen all kinds of knives. Recently I've added some S30V and O1 blade steels to my collection and both of these knives are rolling on me.

It is happening consistently on 3 different O1 models and one S30V knife. I can bring them to a sharp edge but literally it's like the stones are playing back and forth by pushing that wire edge to the other side with each stroke.

If I do my last few strokes very slowly and with next to no pressure I can reduce it, but I can still feel the rolled edge with my thumbnail.

My VG10, H1 and 154CM models are still sharpening just fine.

Any ideas?
 
that wire edge needs to come off.

it should come off easily on the sharpmaker, or you could try a chef's steel.

by lessening the pressure, you are just prolonging your problem.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
that wire edge needs to come off.

it should come off easily on the sharpmaker, or you could try a chef's steel.

by lessening the pressure, you are just prolonging your problem.
Click to expand...

:confused:

The sharpmaker seems to be making it worse on these knives.

What is the recommended procedure for 'removing' the wire edge?
 
run the blade down the stone on the same side the wire edge has folded to.

use the same pressure you would normally use to sharpen.
 
If your having problems with a burr after you use the sharpmaker try stropping the blade to clean the edge up.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
run the blade down the stone on the same side the wire edge has folded to.

use the same pressure you would normally use to sharpen.
Click to expand...

Maybe you're not understanding me. Doing that only pushes the wire to the other side. It's like a bad game of ping pong.

I know how to use the sharpmaker properly and have sharpened and reprofiled a lot of knives on this set since I've owned it. This is the first time I'm having issues.

The knives in question are a Leatherman Charge w/ S30V blade, a Bladetech MLEK (S30V), and three O1 handmade knives from two different makers here on Bladeforums. 1095 from the same maker seems to sharpen fine.

The S30V and O1 are the hardest steels I have and I'm wondering if that is playing a role in this.
 
Haze said:
If your having problems with a burr after you use the sharpmaker try stropping the blade to clean the edge up.
Click to expand...

I've done that an all it does is pull the wire edge out, which dulls and breaks down quicker than a properly sharpened edge should. I'm not very good with a strop, admittedly but I did try it. It removed the rolled edge but I think it just pulled the wire even with both sides which is a pretty weak edge.
 
Are you pushing the edge towards or away from the stone ?

That might make a difference for you ?

Iv had a few knives that are a bit worse with the burrs than others but stropping has always taken the burr off.
sometimes it take many many passes but it does clean the edge up eventually.

You could also try a bit of 1200 grit sand paper rolled up into a tube, that seems to work pretty well too.
 
maybe increase the angle of the blade 1-2 degrees.

this may give the stone enough of an angle to grab and remove the wire.
 
I had this same problem. I cured it simply by using light (next to no) pressure on the white stone...
 
TFin04 said:
Anybody experienced this before? I have a sharpmaker that is about three years old and has been used extensively to sharpen all kinds of knives. Recently I've added some S30V and O1 blade steels to my collection and both of these knives are rolling on me.

It is happening consistently on 3 different O1 models and one S30V knife. I can bring them to a sharp edge but literally it's like the stones are playing back and forth by pushing that wire edge to the other side with each stroke.

If I do my last few strokes very slowly and with next to no pressure I can reduce it, but I can still feel the rolled edge with my thumbnail.

My VG10, H1 and 154CM models are still sharpening just fine.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I can't speak for O1 but S30V like most CPM steels will end up with a PITA burr that takes a long time to remove. If you have the UF stones that will help but using a strop with some compound would be the better way to get rid of it.
 
I always strop although with S30v its a lot harder.
I have no idea what could be the problem as others usually complain about s30v brittleness.
 
Can you use a buffer to remove the burr? Or...
Strop on a piece of mouse-pad with white buffing compound worked into it.
 
Stropping ususally takes care of it for me - strop edge trailing on a piece of leather with black compound, at just a slightly higher angle than you've been sharpening at.

On a few knives that picked up a really tenacious wire edge, I've sliced into a two-by-four, which tends to at least break up the wire edge to some degree, then removed the last bits by stropping.

Last ditch effort: Go back to your stone, raise the angle slightly, and lightly stroke the edge.


Next time, keep a sharper eye on your edge as you are sharpening, and don't let a large wire edge build up. As soon as the tiniest bit of wire edge shows, you are done sharpening on that side or stone. Move to the other side, or a finer stone immediately.

Good luck!
 
For similar problems, I make a few finishing passes at a greater angle; say using the 40 instead of the 30 slots or something similar. It happens to me all the time with a certain knife I own that uses S30V.
 
odd,

I've noticed my Endura zdp-189 with the TK flat grind doing this lately. Each pass on the greys, no matter how light, produces a burr down the entire length of the blade. It's not a wire edge because I've check it with a microscope.

I've been making a couple of passes on the fines to get rid of it, but I do lose some of the toothyness of the grey stones.

hmmm...interesting.
 
Clean your medium rods by rubbing them with hot water and sink cleanser. Hone lightly on the flats of these rods alternating left/right sides, but tilt the spine of the blade slightly towards the space between the hones. That is when you hone on the right rod tilt slightly to the left and vice versa. This will cut off the burr. You may need to tilt by 5 or 10 degrees for a difficult steel. Do this only a few strokes until the burr is gone. Then go back and lightly hone on the flats of these rods with the knife held in the normal vertical position for about 5x as many strokes as you just used for deburring. Then repeat this process with the flats of the white rods.
 
Those SV30 and O1 blades of yours are absolutely definitely sub-standar. Send them to me and I will pleased to dispose them propertly :D :D :D

Nah... just kidding. I also own a Leatherman Charge with SV30 blade and I just put it through the Sharpmaker once (to get rid of the burr it came with from the factory). Works fine for me. I am sure some of the advices given from the rest of the forumites will help you out.

Mikel
 
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